Zoom H5 - XLR Input 1 no longer working.

[analog_addict]

Anyone else had this?

Had my H5 for a couple of years now and suddenly XLR input 1 is no longer working. Started off with white noise and cutting out. I thought it was a bad mic or cable. Tested everything on XLR input 2 and works perfectly.

Can I send it in anywhere to be repaired? I can solder simple things as well if needs be.

 

[Noiz2]

If Zoom won't fix/ replace it under warranty then you are kind of on your own. IF your option is to toss it then opening it up might be wort it. The catch is that unless you are really comfortable with this kind of operation the odds are better than even that you do more damage.

These things are generally very hard to open up with out special tools and a manual to tell you where the locking tabs are. Once inside it is not at all user friendly.

That said from your description you may have a broken connection to the jack, which would be one of the more repairable things. I would do some searches for how to open up a H5. A good YouTube video could save you hours of grief.

From my experience with devices like this there is usually a screw someplace (usually under a sticker/ label) that has to come out and then the two halves of the case will have a bunch of locking tabs. You really need some (I think they are called spudging tools?) plastic wedging priers.
https://www.amazon.com/Professional...ocphy=9016946&hvtargid=pla-523738574545&psc=1
Very thin at the tip, some are angled some are stiffer and straight. Flat blade screwdrivers can do in a pinch but they are much more likely to do damage. You slide the tool between the case halves and slide it along till you find a locking tab. At that point you need to pry the locking tab apart. Generally that involves pushing in on the tab while prying the case apart. Once you have one you need to stick one of the tools in the gap so it doesn't reclose. Slide along and repeat. There are variations on exactly how they release but once you figure out how to do one they all work the same way. Usually after you get one side released the rest get easier.

Once you are in 90% plus will be surface mount components that you really can't do anything with with out a bunch of special tools and a bunch of knowledge. In your case you want to take a very good look at where the jack solders to the board. Pretty much all of these small recorders have the jacks soldered directly to the board, making them very vulnerable to breaking. The solder pads for the jack should be fairly large so a very fine soldering tip should have enough room to get in there.

You want just enough heat to melt the solder and reconnect the jack. Pretty much everything else on that board is heat sensitive and if you go at it with a big old soldering iron you will fry them.

Then you just need to test and reassemble...

If there are small parts like screws two things may save your butt. First put them in separate containers. Egg cartons are good for this. Second put down a light colored towel and do all the work on that. That way when that tiny screw you didn't see drops out it won't bounce on the floor and it will stand out against the light towel.

Good luck.