Zebras/White Balance

C

cocco

New member
Been shooting a documentary on the DVX-100. Most of it is run and gun, primarily outside, during the day.

First inquiry — there are two setting for zebras — what's the difference between them? And which should I use? In the bright sun, I don't trust what I see on the LCD or the view finder, so I rely heavily on the zebras. Also, what's the general rule when it comes to zebras — adjust the iris until all are gone — or are a few okay?

Second inquiry — when I'm doing static, set-up interviews I always white balance manually. That's no problem. However, in the situation that I described above — the run and gun — I have no time to stop and white balance as often as the setting (where I'm shooting) changes. For example, I am following a subject who moves from being in the sun into shade, then back into the sun, etc. Of course, I must adjust the iris and nds on the fly, but what about the white balance? What's the best approach? Are the presets the best bet here? Can someone break down the white balance presets on the DVX-100 for me?

Much thanks.
 
Re: Zebras/White Balance

Its in the manual. Also, I tried the AWT in one context and i was unimpressed. My goal is to make B for constantly changing white balance settings, A for an "automatic" setting, and of course the Prst for the preset (3200k & 5600k).

I really wish Panasonic made the 3200k and 5600k have their own place on the switch rather than share a spot on the switch plus toggle with the AWB button. Also, a simple auto white balance would have been great because sometimes (like in your situation), you can't keep white balancing.

This past weekend at a family gathering, I kept doing the manual white balance. My brother-in-law wanted to know how much footage I had of the wall because he saw me pointing at the white walls often as I white balanced, not knowing I wasn't recording.
 
Re: Zebras/White Balance

Yeah, Panasonic should really address this as pesky brother-in-laws can be really embarrassing with their questions.  ;D ;)

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Oops! sorry cocco... didn't mean to ignore your request for help.

I concur with everything John says below. I might add that in regard to your question of exposure for extreme changes in quantity and quality of light, that you might try doing a manual iris roll.

I'm assuming by your mention of run and gun that you don't have an assistant available to hold a cheap, hardware store insulation reflector.

If you determine the proper exposure for for two or more areas of the scene, then you could try manually hitting those f-stops as smoothly as possible with the DVX's tiny iris controller wheel.

Try this during blocking to see if it will be within a "do-able" range on the iris wheel.

You might be able to somewhat disguise the shift with camera movement if it is a handheld or stabilizer shot.

Then again, if it is truly run and gun then auto-iris might be sufficient. You could switch back to manual as soon as you were confident of your end of scene exposure.

Blah, blah, blah... why am I awake @ 3:15am? I'm going to sleep. ;)
 
Re: Zebras/White Balance

General Rules on Zebras.... Hmmmm....

I like to adjust the ZEBRAS for the highlights. The highlights being the BRIGHTEST bit in the shot. This could be CHROME splashed by sunlight or even a White Stucco wall drenched by the sun. Thats a generalization of course and each and every shot is different.

Not every shot is the same and not every look is the same. Some people might want overexposed footage and others might want to come under. I hate the ZEBRAS too but have come to appreciate them. I'll usually switch them on and then off and make any adjustments (IF NEEDED) from there. The more I use them the more I trust them.

The point is to see ZEBRAS only in these brightest highlights and no where else.

As far as adjusting the ND or IRIS on the fly; you really gotta plan the shots with as much control as you can. Hopefully you know if the subject will be moving into the shade and can get some BOUNCE in there prior to subject moving there. However, if you are running and gunning, I see no reason to shoot as much in AUTO as possible (as oppossed to planning the shot in advance).
 
Re: Zebras/White Balance

I had auto white balance on or was it auto iris....well anyway, it was by accident and I was shooting a ad agency's pitch to a major airline which was a one shot deal. All of a sudden the colors start to go crazy turning extreme warm and extreme cold and it would start to do it during a critical point in the pitch. Needless to say the footage was no good after that. Auto anything = auto evil in my case.
 
Re: Zebras/White Balance

I usually leave the zebras on 100% as an idiot light. Then use the 80% for close-ups. 8)
 
Re: Zebras/White Balance

i do the same as elvis, cept i always have it on 100..cause it makes it easy for me to see whats overexposed. the closeups i just go by eye.

here these smileys should help too... :o
that one hleps alot

this one is just lame.. so you can laugh at it.. :-*
 
Re: Zebras/White Balance

[quote author=Terry_Lasater link=board=news;num=1083029646;start=0#2 date=04/26/04 at 21:53:23]Yeah, Panasonic should really address this as pesky brother-in-laws can be really embarrassing with their questions.  ;D ;)[/quote]

I'm no social genius, but are you making fun of me?
 
Re: Zebras/White Balance

I'm no social genius either.

But, yes... I'm guilty of pokin' fun. Don't take it seriously. That was just my attempt at a clever comment. :)
 
Re: Zebras/White Balance

I always shoot with the spot meter. You should look the object or the part of the imagine that is more important and be aware of not reaching more than 85 or 90%. If you're pointing to a person, you shouldn't reach 70%. I think in most of the cases it's better to meter at the shadows of the person.
That's my humble opinion.
Zab
 
Re: Zebras/White Balance

[quote author=Terry_Lasater link=board=news;num=1083029646;start=0#9 date=04/27/04 at 20:06:20]I'm no social genius either.

But, yes... I'm guilty of pokin' fun. Don't take it seriously. That was just my attempt at a clever comment.  :)

[/quote]

Actually, I'm teasing you back. I took it in fun. (However, it did kind of cut me to the core and I'll have to work it through in my next therapy session.) ;)
 
Re: Zebras/White Balance

Zebra can be your very best friend if you know how to use it properly.

Some things to remember. When shooting skin tone (light complection) you should zebra between 70 & 80%.

For overall shooting, you can go as high as 105% with the 100A on very reflective objects (backlight, windows, metal, white silk, etc...

To capture more of a film feel, lower your F stop by 1/2.
 
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