yet another dolly

R

rocketscience

Active member
This is another (semi) light, portable dolly. Not meant for an operator to be on. If the cups werent where they are, it would be pretty much foldable. As it is, it folds partly, but no matter, still fits in the trunk. No clip tonight. Too tired.

http://koodies.home.comcast.net/dolly

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I used "aggressive" in-line skate wheels. A bit more costly -- cant find them cheap on ebay-- but flatter than regular roller blade wheels and yet softer than skateboard wheels.
 
That looks almost identical to v1.0 if the "solo dolly" I made last month. The aluminum angle "iron" I was using flexed too much, but it looks like you're using thicker metal.

Nice work! Let me know if you have any operating tips.
 
funny you should say that.. I had planned in my head on using all aluminum for the past couple months.. but couldnt get myself motivated. Then I saw your Solo Dolly and knew it could be done and voila..
Plus time is getting of the essence. I have something coming up in Sept and needed this soon so I can practice. Now I just need to figure out how to get the PVC sections together and fairly smooth. The 4 sets of wheels helps with that though.. you feel the bumps less.

And if Home Depot had box sections aluminum.. I would have gone with that. But this works pretty well. It will flex out of plane, but not much and you have to really try.
 
You can connect PVC sections with metal plumbing nipples. If you're using 3/4" PVC, get 3/4" nipples, etc. Eventually, screwing and unscrewing the nipple will wear out the end of the PVC, but you can just cut that little bit off and start again. Plus, PVC is cheap (yay!). I just built a standard MDF platform dolly this weekend (and a crane, and filled sandbags -- which is why it's 12:55 a.m.), but am only using one length of PVC track at the moment. The nipple advice is from the DV Camera Rigs book (dvcamerarigs.com). Defintitely worth the $$$ -- just don't leave it at Lowe's like I did Thursday night.

The rambling means I'm sleepy.

Also, Metal Plumbing Nipples would be a great band name.

Fox

rocketscience said:
Now I just need to figure out how to get the PVC sections together and fairly smooth.
Click to expand...
 
I actually tried the threaded nipples. Then I tried it on the PVC pipes. (!!).

They didn't connect very straight, and I couldnt get them close enough together. I think I will try wooden dowels with some very low-profile tape. Any advice on how to cut PVC pipe straight so it meets flush? I bought a $9 ratcheting PVC pipe cutter. It's close, but not perfect.
 
a power miter saw or radial arm saw works great for cutting pipe. For connectors get a length of thin wall central vaccum pipe, cut into 1 foot lenghts, cut about a 1 inch wide section out of the full length so that it looks like a C from the end. Squeeze it together and shove into end of pvc, nice tight fit. Its been a while but I think 2" vaccum pipe makes connector for 1.5" pcv.
 
For those of us without a lot of power tools, getting things straight seems nigh impossible. Nigh, I say. Nigh.
 
You can cut tube straight with a mitre box and a thin-but-sharp saw.

I cut my metal tracks this way, and they join fine with just a piece of PVC split down the middle inserted between the two sections of track. There's a wee gap, but the soft roller-blade wheels fill it in and you don't notice it through the lens. My track tubes are only 2cm diameter -- may be different with larger diameter tubes.
 
Thanks for all the suggestions. The split pipe connector is something I will definitely be trying within the next couple days. And it sounds like a mitre box is the way to go.
 
quick update:
I used 1" thick, 12" long wooden rods. Took up the slack with blue painters tape. 2 sets of tape for each end (4 on 1 rod). Used a screw in 1 of the 2 connecting rods.

slips on tightly, smooth as glass. If/when tape wears out, cheap & easy to replace.

See pics & sample. Thanks for looking.

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sample movie: quicktime less than 1 mb.

http://koodies.home.comcast.net/dolly/dolly.mov
 
good stuff, thats great that you used aggressive skating wheels, I'm an aggressive skater, i actually know the owner of the company of the wheels you used
 
Bringing this thread back to life..

I've been asked to be more detailed with the dolly construction. I'll try the best I can.

The most important parts are the V-shaped channels, the aluminum bits, and the wheels. Apart from the bolts that hold the wheels on, all the other nuts and bolts dont matter much except obviously, the bolts need to match whatever nuts you use and they must not be tiny nor huge.

I'll also post pictures of what remaining parts I have. Everything was gotten from Home Depot. I stood in the hardware aisle for an hour putting it together in my head and counting hardware. There's a section with aluminum and steel.. that's where the frame comes from. It looks like the bolts that hold the wheels on are 1.5 inches in length.

I wanted to use 4 wheels per side. I thought 4 is better than 2. Imagine a limo going over a small pothole. As the front wheels hit it, they dip down and the limo’s angle changes. Imagine a limo with 4 axles.. front wheels hit the pothole, the other 3 keep it level. Same BASIC concept with any gaps in my PVC pipe.

1) I ordered the wheels from Sportmart.com. Aggressive inline skate wheels. Senate 54mm/89A Aggressive Wheel/Bearing Combo. They have a flatter profile than rounded wheels and are softer than skateboard wheels. This was the most expensive part. Package comes with 8 wheels, I used 16.

2) took a couple wheels and bearings with me to Home Depot. Found 1.5 inch bolts that would fit inside bearing and corresponding nuts and some washers in case I needed spacing. Washers MUST not be larger than inner circle of bearings. Otherwise you're putting a breaking force on the bearing. As you can see I didn’t use the washers. 2 nuts per wheel to hold it onto V-frame. 1 as a spacer, 2nd holding it on. If the spacer nut is screwed down too tight, it wont spin freely. Screw it down til it touches, then back off ¼ turn or more. Too loose and it’s wobbly. This is a pain.

3) Found the V-frame, tested the bolts and nuts with wheels to make sure it wasn’t too long, otherwise the aluminum top wont fit on nicely.

4) Got what looks like 1.5 inch wide aluminum to cover the V-frame. The parts are all from Home Depot so try it in the store, make sure it is the right width.

5) Need screws to hold aluminum to v-frame. Make sure it goes through v-frame VERTICALLY, i.e., not flush with a side of the V. Not round head.. I made it countersunk with the alum flat piece. And corresponding nuts.

6) need screws to hold L-shaped alum to flat alum. I think I got 1 inch. 1.5 probably better. My wingnuts barely fit. I also used fender washers between L and Flat alum to make it fold but I don’t fold it so really don’t need it.

7) counter sink holes for screws that hold alum flat to steel V-frame.

8) used 1.5 “ PVC end caps for tripod holders. Felt pads soften the shocks.

9) used 1” PVC pipes for tracks as in link to pictures. Note the dowels and painters tape. Use a mitre box to cut PVC and sand the INSIDE a little where it's cut so the dowels slip in easily. This is important, otherwise, the tape gets caught. Sanding the outside edge is a good idea too, but not too much.

Hopefully the exploded diagram explains the rest. I drilled 2 extra holes on each L brace to hold bungee cords which keep the tripod planted. I put a carabiner on the tripod and hook the bungee cords to that.

http://koodies.home.comcast.net/dolly/
http://koodies.home.comcast.net/dolly2/

2nd link has "exploded" diagram

EDIT: There's a slight error in the diagram. The 2 tripod cups should be OUTSIDE the L support brackets, not inboard of them.
EDIT: added a tip about sanding PVC inner diameter
 
rocketscience said:
I actually tried the threaded nipples. Then I tried it on the PVC pipes. (!!).

They didn't connect very straight, and I couldn't get them close enough together. I think I will try wooden dowels with some very low-profile tape. Any advice on how to cut PVC pipe straight so it meets flush? I bought a $9 ratcheting PVC pipe cutter. It's close, but not perfect.
Click to expand...


I did the threaded nipple approach, but I also splurged for a tap and tapped threads into the ends of my PVC, they fit really snug, straight, and I think the threads will last a long time:

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In these two pictures there is an insert that goes permanently into each PVC end and then I use a threaded rod to connect the two:

dollie-insert1.JPG


dollie-insert2.JPG



But in the end I decided to just use the one threaded nipple and only thread it in half way of each PVC end, seemed strong enough and straight enough, but that's probably all due to tapping it straight (wasn't particularly easy as I did it by hand, but it's smooth at the joints)
 
yeah, I think the dowel approach is probably easier, my approach was purely an exercise in mental masturbation trying to over-engineer! ;-)

I also like the split PVC/dowel approach, taking a piece of PVC and cutting a slot down the middle so it flexes and fits like a dowel.. couldn't find it but there are posts with pics of that approach here somewhere, I think Jonathan Houser of G35/Cinemek fame posted that design somewhere.
 
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