WOW, Good Cheap Follow Focus

All in all, it sounds like a lot of bang for the buck. Can't wait to get mine. Thanks for the excellent review. Have you mounted and tested it on your camera yet? Be interesting to hear from someone who has extensive experiance with high end units.
Again, thanks for the review.
Bill Wojo
 
Hey Paul, two questions:

1) what's the finish like? Painted, anodized, powder-coat?
2) Is the stop for the a/b stops adjustable?

Thanks for your review.
 
The finish looks to be a satin anodized aluminum.

I'm not sure I understand your second question. The two stop rings rotate fully. So they can be positioned anywhere and then locked down by tightening the screws.
 
Logan LeBlanc said:
I have a Gini Rig iFocus that has virtually ZERO backlash, but it's just too big.
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A simple workaround I've read about for the backlash was to fill the gearbox with grease (100% full) and close it back. The more grease in it, the less backlash.
Never had to do it on mine, but I'm sure it's totally doable easily.
 
@Paul, I'm referring to the actual marker that the knobs "bang" into. Is that adjustable so that if I used a dry erase pen on the ring I could move the marker to a better position.
Comprende?
 
Yes, understood now. No, it cannot be adjusted. It is part of the backplate of the unit and it is screwed to the gearbox.
 
Wow , just realized this thread kept going. A few weeks in now and I'm still in love with it. It's the best follow focus I've owned and the cheapest ( redrock 1,2,3 zacuto, and cinevate. For how often in a year I pull focus this might be my last one. For $89 I have a lot if other things that I could spend the other $1500 I've saved.
 
vcfilms said:
It would be interesting to hear from some who has used both the tilta one and this one to see if they are the same unit just unbadged. That would be interesting if it was
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I compared my unit to pictures of a Tilta. It is not an unbadged Tilta. It is a close copy, but they are different.
 
Paul, still waiting on mine but what did you find different? I know there are some simple cosmetic differences like the stop rings both being anodized on the cheaper one and the bolt, but what else? I looked at pics of both of them carefully and I thought they were pretty much identical.
 
There are small differences, hex bolt instead of round on the sliding clamp, different hard stop screws, colour. I've used both and I'd say they came from the same spot. Gearbox acts exactly the same to me. The main thing is it is an amazing price for such a well made product. I've got 2 more on order as I've always wanted a zoom control and for a christmas present for the other dp I work with a lot.
 
Agreed. This is a really decent piece of machining for a most-reasonable price. Most of the differences are cosmetic. The machining is different in some areas. The cheap one uses some simpler machining steps that have no affect whatsoever to performance.

There may be some important internal differences. For example, I see that the way the gear assembly is put together is different. Is it important? Who knows.

The one significant difference I see is that the Tilta 15mm rod clamp grabs both rods. The unbadged unit only has active clamping action on one rod.
 
Well mine arrived yesterday so I really just got a good chance to play with it. All in all, well worth the money. Construction is mostly aluminum with the exception of the drive gear and marker ring. By the way, the marker ring is held on by 3 small magnets, I guess so it can be removed and cleaned. Nice feature.

As far as backlash, there is a minimal amount as there needs to be so the gears won't bind. There is however what feels like backlash if the tension screw is left just a little bit loose. There is a ring of holes beneath it that rotates with the focus knob. They can be seen if you remove the tension screw completely. The tension screw will locate in one of the holes as you screw it in so that you can set drag. The holes are larger than the screw so unless you have the screw fully seated it will give a slight clunk as you change directions. The problem that I have is that the drag is not consistant as you rotate the focus knob if the drag is set.

This may just be a problem with my unit. With the screw backed out of the hole there is a small amount of drag that is very smooth. I'll probably use it in that mode anyway.

Since I'm a machinist by trade I can comment about the workmanship. Overall it is very nicely made. Fit and finish far beyond what I have seen of anything in this price range. The ugly bolt that holds it to the rod clamp is going to be replaced. Thinking about a nice anodized nut block for the top and loctiteing a setscrew into the existing bottom knurled nut, changing the knurled nut into a lock screw.

I'm making a complete top plate with sliding dovetail to replace the existing one on an old O'Connor model 30 tripod head that I bought. Was missing the panhandle and quick release plate so time to design and build something a bit nicer for it. All anodized red and black. Think the nut for the rod clamp will look nice in red. Grin

Probably not a problem as I can't see ever using the full focus range with the stops set and locked but on my Panasonic DVX100 it takes a full turn and a half to go from the top of macro to infinity. The ring gear is a Century optics and is pretty large to fit the focus collar. The option of other gears would be nice though. If someone has a Tilta, check and see if they are the same. Does Tilta even make other gears?

I checked out the comment about the focus stop rings rubbing against each other and yes, there is a slight noise. They should have placed a paper thin disc of mylar between the two rings. Cheap and would have solved that problem. Does it bother me? Nope, I didn't expect a Arri follow focus at this price point.

I think for the money it's a great deal and if your thinking about getting a follow focus but don't want to spend a small fortune I would recommend it. Looking on the net at other follow focus units under 300.00, haven't seen anything as nice.
Hope this helps someone.

Bill Wojo
 
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BillWojo said:
... By the way, the marker ring is held on by 3 small magnets, I guess so it can be removed and cleaned. Nice feature.
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I didn't notice that. Good catch.

BillWojo said:
..As far as backlash, there is a minimal amount as there needs to be so the gears won't bind.
Click to expand...

I can't detect any backlash on my unit.


BillWojo said:
The problem that I have is that the drag is not consistant as you rotate the focus knob if the drag is set.
Click to expand...

I didn't notice this. I'll play with it more. I haven't tried to rotate it more than 180 degrees with the heavy drag.



BillWojo said:
Since I'm a machinist by trade I can comment about the workmanship.
Click to expand...

It looks like all the screws on the back are not meant to be taken off until the knob assembly is removed from the gear box. Do you think the knob is press fit on the shaft? I've wanted to take it apart to look at the drag mechanism, but I did't want to get the gear puller out and wreck it.


BillWojo said:
All anodized red and black. Think the nut for the rod clamp will look nice in red. Grin
Click to expand...

Do you do your own anodizing or do you send it out?
 
Hi Paul
The only way I could detect any backlash was by holding the small gear and rotating the focus knob. It's a very tiny amount but needs to be there or the gears will bind. During operation it can't be felt at all.

I left the lock screws on the stops loose and rotated the focus knob several revolutions. It could be felt to snug up more in the same spot. Not surprised. Anything out of parallel by more than a thousand or two will cause that. Like I said, it's not an Arri. Not that I have ever even seen an Arri up close. But I did talk to a guy once who uses one. LOL

I looked it over to see how it comes apart and it's not readily apparent. I'm sure I could figure it out but I really don't want to mess it up. I wouldn't try using a gear puller without knowing precisely how it's built. I guess you didn't get a parts manual either.

I usually send my anodizing over to Hillock in Philly. About a half hour from me so I can drop it off when I'm out doing service calls. Today I still do machine work but it's mostly for repair parts. I repair machine shop equipment for a living. Thats why I can look at transmissions and gearing and see stuff that most would never notice.

Bill Wojo
 
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