frankoferko
Active member
Hello there, good DVX people, so I have been working with standard 8 and Super 8 film first, then 16mm and Super 16 film cameras using both reversal and negative stock, and a little bit with good old 4-perforation 35mm Arriflex.
For the film stock, used anywhere from 25 ASA (13 DIN) ultra low sensitivy color reversal stock to 90 ASA 16mm negative, all the way to the current crop of 500 ASA Eastman and Fujicolor stocks that can be easily pushed 2x stops in processing. Also used East German ORWO, Italian Ferraniacolor, USSR Sochicolor, both West German and East German Agfacolor film stocks, and not long ago even used some of the Soviet stocks that is still being mfr'd today at one small place in Russia.
I am involved in film production for television, and came to the realization recently that until the digital camera/camcorder solidifies in maybe 5 to 10 years, it is still a lot more sensible and economical to shoot on film. Why?
1. When you shoot on film, you will not need to shoot 200 hours of material for a dramatic feature that will be cut down to 100 minutes. In fat, since you are paying for the film stock whether the take is good or bad, you are going to be much more careful. We usually shoot 8-10 hours for a 100 minute finished show, so that is a pretty decent shooting ratio.
2. We use Super 16 gauge because it transfer very well by a Lasergraphics 2K scan. In fact, I just had some 18-years old negative scanned in again at 3K resolution, wanted to see the difference. Well, due to the great new scanning technology, the 3K scan from S16 really looked great in 3K. It kicked over to 4K using the Cineform Studio Premium very nicely. So, even though we shot the stuff 18 years ago -- now, if I wanted to, I could re-can the footage (edited neg roll) at 3K resolution, and then with a very mild Cineform 4K upscaling, will have a 4K DI variant ready for 4K distribution.
If you had shot the stuff on video tape 18 years ago, you probably could not derive a decent quality 4K resolution video master from it today, I suspect.
3. Optics for film cameras are the best made out there, bar none. And they do not have to be brand new, either. Legacy lenses are great, well up to an extent. Great thing on shooting on film and the scanning in right away for a DI workflow is that you are enjoying the tremendous benefits of having your master-master on film -- yet benefiting from all the great advances of digital post production and mastering.
4. Film laboratories have seen a drop in business, so they will treat you very nicely as a customer, and cut you a great price. Same thing with the folks doing scanning (usually the same facility that develops the footage).
5. When it comes time to sell your show, you can always state that it was "SHOOT ON FILM" -- that still means something. After all, I never heard of anyone shooting with a film camera because they claim they want to achieve that "coveted video look."
There are many more reasons, but this should get the ball rolling.
Regarding the GAUGES/FORMATS:
If I could go back in time, I would not have shot anything on regular 8mm, and probably extremely little on Super 8. I had some of my 35-40 years old material scanned recently, and even with all the post production/restoration massaging, the old film stock of that size is just not cutting it today for anything else but that good old home movies look. Also scanned in my 16mm footage -- looking great at 1600 x 1200 and 1920 x 1080.
I am not recommending shooting anything on regular 16mm today, either, due to the non wide screen aspect ratio. So, it is either Super 16 at 1.66:1 or else Ultra 16 at 1.85:1 AR. As I never shut Ultra 16, so I cannot comment on it much.
The only 35mm type that can be economically used as compared to S16 is 2-perf 35mm. At present time, I only know the Aaton Penelope that shoots reliable 2-perf 35. But if you had watched the movie "The Fighter," you'll know that the image quality is not all that much better with 2-perf 35 than with S16. it is only to be used when you are shooting in 2.35/2.39:1 AR Scope (we never do).
http://www.aaton.com/products/film/penelope/index.php
For S16 work, I would recommend renting the latest models from Aaton or Arri -- the Xtera or the 416.
http://www.aaton.com/products/film/xtera/index.php
http://www.arri.com/camera/film_cameras/16_mm_film/arriflex_416416_plus.html
Regarding the CAMERA FRAME RATE:
If I could go back in time, I would not have shot anything using the standard 8mm film's 16 fps and Super 8's 18 fps frame rate. Instead, I would have shot everything at 24 fps. As it happens, I did shoot some 8mm at 24 fps, and of course all of my 16mm stock was acquired at 24 fps, fortunately.
For the film stock, used anywhere from 25 ASA (13 DIN) ultra low sensitivy color reversal stock to 90 ASA 16mm negative, all the way to the current crop of 500 ASA Eastman and Fujicolor stocks that can be easily pushed 2x stops in processing. Also used East German ORWO, Italian Ferraniacolor, USSR Sochicolor, both West German and East German Agfacolor film stocks, and not long ago even used some of the Soviet stocks that is still being mfr'd today at one small place in Russia.
I am involved in film production for television, and came to the realization recently that until the digital camera/camcorder solidifies in maybe 5 to 10 years, it is still a lot more sensible and economical to shoot on film. Why?
1. When you shoot on film, you will not need to shoot 200 hours of material for a dramatic feature that will be cut down to 100 minutes. In fat, since you are paying for the film stock whether the take is good or bad, you are going to be much more careful. We usually shoot 8-10 hours for a 100 minute finished show, so that is a pretty decent shooting ratio.
2. We use Super 16 gauge because it transfer very well by a Lasergraphics 2K scan. In fact, I just had some 18-years old negative scanned in again at 3K resolution, wanted to see the difference. Well, due to the great new scanning technology, the 3K scan from S16 really looked great in 3K. It kicked over to 4K using the Cineform Studio Premium very nicely. So, even though we shot the stuff 18 years ago -- now, if I wanted to, I could re-can the footage (edited neg roll) at 3K resolution, and then with a very mild Cineform 4K upscaling, will have a 4K DI variant ready for 4K distribution.
If you had shot the stuff on video tape 18 years ago, you probably could not derive a decent quality 4K resolution video master from it today, I suspect.
3. Optics for film cameras are the best made out there, bar none. And they do not have to be brand new, either. Legacy lenses are great, well up to an extent. Great thing on shooting on film and the scanning in right away for a DI workflow is that you are enjoying the tremendous benefits of having your master-master on film -- yet benefiting from all the great advances of digital post production and mastering.
4. Film laboratories have seen a drop in business, so they will treat you very nicely as a customer, and cut you a great price. Same thing with the folks doing scanning (usually the same facility that develops the footage).
5. When it comes time to sell your show, you can always state that it was "SHOOT ON FILM" -- that still means something. After all, I never heard of anyone shooting with a film camera because they claim they want to achieve that "coveted video look."
There are many more reasons, but this should get the ball rolling.
Regarding the GAUGES/FORMATS:
If I could go back in time, I would not have shot anything on regular 8mm, and probably extremely little on Super 8. I had some of my 35-40 years old material scanned recently, and even with all the post production/restoration massaging, the old film stock of that size is just not cutting it today for anything else but that good old home movies look. Also scanned in my 16mm footage -- looking great at 1600 x 1200 and 1920 x 1080.
I am not recommending shooting anything on regular 16mm today, either, due to the non wide screen aspect ratio. So, it is either Super 16 at 1.66:1 or else Ultra 16 at 1.85:1 AR. As I never shut Ultra 16, so I cannot comment on it much.
The only 35mm type that can be economically used as compared to S16 is 2-perf 35mm. At present time, I only know the Aaton Penelope that shoots reliable 2-perf 35. But if you had watched the movie "The Fighter," you'll know that the image quality is not all that much better with 2-perf 35 than with S16. it is only to be used when you are shooting in 2.35/2.39:1 AR Scope (we never do).
http://www.aaton.com/products/film/penelope/index.php
For S16 work, I would recommend renting the latest models from Aaton or Arri -- the Xtera or the 416.
http://www.aaton.com/products/film/xtera/index.php
http://www.arri.com/camera/film_cameras/16_mm_film/arriflex_416416_plus.html
Regarding the CAMERA FRAME RATE:
If I could go back in time, I would not have shot anything using the standard 8mm film's 16 fps and Super 8's 18 fps frame rate. Instead, I would have shot everything at 24 fps. As it happens, I did shoot some 8mm at 24 fps, and of course all of my 16mm stock was acquired at 24 fps, fortunately.