Victor Milt Nanolight bank....
- Thread starter DJ Lewis
- Start date
The pole looks like it can be stuck into the top of a stand and it will sit vertically. There are hoops on the end of each corner, I guess to string it up if you're hanging it from a ceiling?
Is there a way to angle this with out having to hang it from a ceiling or do I need a cross bar or something like that to hang it from? and ideas? He doesn't really go into on the dvd.
Last edited:
Andrew Brinkhaus
Veteran
I made a very similar fixture, except using a flo fixture. I had a standard 3/8" stand, and couldnt figure out how to mount it. I ended up getting a mount welded out of lightweight steel, with a piece of pipe welded, which fit snugly over the stand. The mount is secured to the fixture by 4 flatscrews, and can be removed and constructed easily, plus its light. The only downside at the moment is that it can not be turned vertically, but in my case that doesnt matter because I have very wide reflecter barndoors on it, so the light spread is very great. If you are interested in this design, PM. Though, it doesnt look like it would work very well with your model. Doesnt hurt to try though.
MattinSTL
Sound Modulator
If I were going to make something like that I'd be sure the back of the lightbox was strong enough to support a baby plate or similar... like an F810:
Kino Flo has a nice "twist plate" system which is really light and strong... at least strong enough for stuff like this... the kino baby plate and stand receiver will set you back $90 though... and if you can find JUST the plates that mount to the light itself then I'm all ears. I'm not that keen on the total system, but the convenience of leaving your fixtures totally flat with just a plate remaining is nice. That's what led me to do my own fixtures in such a way that they'd be left smooth when nothing is attached.
If you want to get creative then you can use a 3/8" weld nut and get it secured inside of your "chicken coup" as becheong called it... the only way your going to be able to do that easily is by having the entire back made of something stronger then coroplast... then once you've done that you can use a Manfrotto 3102 in conjunction with a 2905 or an F825.
Don't make me post pics of everything... just go to B&H and type these numbers in the search box... you'll start to understand how it will all go together.
If you're gonna' make something like this I'd also suggest that you may want to put a switch on each bulb inside of the box... that will give you variable controll of the output w/o trying to work in a dimming function. I saw that DVD and while I find this approach very intriguing... the bulbs that he says are readily available at Home Depot or Lowe's AREN'T... and once I ordered them and got 'em in I found that the bulbs he shows dimming have drastic changes in color temp as they dim... I mean DRASTIC... the Philips 2800k bulb almost goes to daylight blue from totally yellow. I find that to be a pain in the ass personally.
I'm experimenting with all of this stuff though, because the idea of lighting THIS cheap is very appealing... and I think I can put something together really nice that people will enjoy using... but the stuff Victor shows is such a low CRI and the dimming bulbs change so much that I'm gonna' try something different.
Kino Flo has a nice "twist plate" system which is really light and strong... at least strong enough for stuff like this... the kino baby plate and stand receiver will set you back $90 though... and if you can find JUST the plates that mount to the light itself then I'm all ears. I'm not that keen on the total system, but the convenience of leaving your fixtures totally flat with just a plate remaining is nice. That's what led me to do my own fixtures in such a way that they'd be left smooth when nothing is attached.
If you want to get creative then you can use a 3/8" weld nut and get it secured inside of your "chicken coup" as becheong called it... the only way your going to be able to do that easily is by having the entire back made of something stronger then coroplast... then once you've done that you can use a Manfrotto 3102 in conjunction with a 2905 or an F825.
Don't make me post pics of everything... just go to B&H and type these numbers in the search box... you'll start to understand how it will all go together.
If you're gonna' make something like this I'd also suggest that you may want to put a switch on each bulb inside of the box... that will give you variable controll of the output w/o trying to work in a dimming function. I saw that DVD and while I find this approach very intriguing... the bulbs that he says are readily available at Home Depot or Lowe's AREN'T... and once I ordered them and got 'em in I found that the bulbs he shows dimming have drastic changes in color temp as they dim... I mean DRASTIC... the Philips 2800k bulb almost goes to daylight blue from totally yellow. I find that to be a pain in the ass personally.
I'm experimenting with all of this stuff though, because the idea of lighting THIS cheap is very appealing... and I think I can put something together really nice that people will enjoy using... but the stuff Victor shows is such a low CRI and the dimming bulbs change so much that I'm gonna' try something different.
MattinSTL
Sound Modulator
Nothing yet... this is why I'm taking a Haitus from my lights... I'm intrigued by the possibilities... and franky, why not get some and use them judiciously? I still think it's worth having a couple... the reason I'm keeping at least some of the one's I bought is for running off an inverter in the car... then use them for faux dash lighting... as long as you only use ONE of them or dim two of them to the same level you can WB to that.
There's definitely value in it... but so far it 'aint the answer.
There's definitely value in it... but so far it 'aint the answer.