Thoughts on Aputure Light Storm C300d Mark II?

K

kat.hayes

Active member
I want to get a light that I can use for product and toys videos, and also possibly strong enough to use for photography. At times I will also use it for videos with kids, and I will need to get a large modifier to make it soft. I am looking at the Aputure Light Storm C300d Mark II LED

1. Anyone have any thoughts on using this light for my intended purpose?
2. Anyone have any suggestions regarding getting either the gold mount or v-mount?

Thanks!
 
They're fine. They're not that powerful; it's an efficient design but it's only a 300W light, so it depends what you want to achieve. I have one here and the Aputure pop-up softbox to go with it, so if you like I can assemble it and make some measurements as to what you'll actually get.

If you already have batteries, that'll make the decision for you, but gold mount is in every way a better and more robust design than V-mount. Unfortunately, V seems to be drifting toward becoming the de facto standard. You can usually get most things in either mount, if you ask for it, but it's sort of hard to recommend getting into a brand new gold mount system right now. It depends to a degree where you are. Gold was always bigger in the USA than here in the UK.

Bear in mind that many batteries are on the very edge of their capability envelope supplying 150W each. Depending, again, on what you're aiming to achieve, you may need to get big ones, and lots of them. This sort of purchase can easily exceed the value of the light itself. Mains power is your friend.

P
 
Hi Phil,

Thanks for the reply and offer to make measurements! I will mainly be shooting indoors, and I will have access to plugging the light in almost most of the time. In fact, I will not often be using the battery and will only do so generally for convenience.

I am in the states and I do not yet have any batteries. I am switching from KNO Flo lights, so this is all new to me.
1. What makes the gold mount better? Does it last longer between charges or does it have a longer overall life?
2. What are some downsides of getting into the gold mount system? Just having a hard time finding replacements in the future?

Thank you!!!
 
kat.hayes said:
Hi Phil,

Thanks for the reply and offer to make measurements! I will mainly be shooting indoors, and I will have access to plugging the light in almost most of the time. In fact, I will not often be using the battery and will only do so generally for convenience.

I am in the states and I do not yet have any batteries. I am switching from KNO Flo lights, so this is all new to me.
1. What makes the gold mount better? Does it last longer between charges or does it have a longer overall life?
2. What are some downsides of getting into the gold mount system? Just having a hard time finding replacements in the future?

Thank you!!!
Click to expand...

What Phil means by GM's being more robust, is the mounting/interface system. It's been around longer and was designed for the rigors of powering broadcast cameras and equipment "back in the day" when everything was built a lot tougher and to survive going to war(literally). It's still what you see on the majority of broadcast equipment, especially on the remote side.

Sony invented the V-mount and it's been around since the late 90's or just before. V-mounts started to became very popular in the mid-late 00's with the influx of "cheap Chinese knock-off" batteries and RED, because they chose V-mount as their "native battery mount". Even Anton Bauer, who developed the Gold Mount and PAG, who has their own mount, started making V-mounts back around 2014. PAG also started making Gold Mounts then, too. So there is that.

I prefer Gold Mounts, but I've been doing this for well over two decades and I'm heavily entrenched in the system. As are most of my friends and colleagues.
 
Oh, I see. I'm working with a Sony A7S2 and a soon to be A7S3, no broadcast cameras or equipment.


Run&Gun said:
What Phil means by GM's being more robust, is the mounting/interface system. It's been around longer and was designed for the rigors of powering broadcast cameras and equipment "back in the day" when everything was built a lot tougher and to survive going to war(literally). It's still what you see on the majority of broadcast equipment, especially on the remote side.

Sony invented the V-mount and it's been around since the late 90's or just before. V-mounts started to became very popular in the mid-late 00's with the influx of "cheap Chinese knock-off" batteries and RED, because they chose V-mount as their "native battery mount". Even Anton Bauer, who developed the Gold Mount and PAG, who has their own mount, started making V-mounts back around 2014. PAG also started making Gold Mounts then, too. So there is that.

I prefer Gold Mounts, but I've been doing this for well over two decades and I'm heavily entrenched in the system. As are most of my friends and colleagues.
Click to expand...
 
kat.hayes said:
I want to get a light that I can use for product and toys videos, and also possibly strong enough to use for photography. At times I will also use it for videos with kids, and I will need to get a large modifier to make it soft. I am looking at the Aputure Light Storm C300d Mark II LED

1. Anyone have any thoughts on using this light for my intended purpose?
2. Anyone have any suggestions regarding getting either the gold mount or v-mount?

Thanks!
Click to expand...

Kat, absolutely nothing wrong with the Aputure C300D MKII, it's a good light that many of us have used for quite a while. But as far as for what you are doing, for the same money, you could get a Godox VL300 that is slightly more powerful AND a Godox VL150 as a fill/rim source. The Aputure has a few tricks up it's sleeve
that the Godox lacks but for sheer horsepower and ease of use, the Godox should at least be considered. The Godox have a slight magenta bias, but that goes away as you put some hours on them. They also use all of the same modifiers as the Aputures. Personally, owning three Aputures and five Godox, I think the Godox
have a much better value equation.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LZqxF85FqQM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JqAkEDX6krg&t=36s
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GgH2KOGyIL8&t=21s
 
Thanks for the replies everyone, I ordered the 300D MKII.

1.) I have a rolling C Stand and would like to put the light directly over an object from a bit of a distance. I'm guessing an arm like this is not going to be able to support the light https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/243966-REG/Avenger_A2030DKIT_A2030D_Turtle_Base_Century.html? What is a safe/stable arm that I can I look into getting?

2.) Can barn doors from older Arri lights be used with the 300D. I do not have the exact model #, just wondering if that is even something to look into?

Thanks
 
kat.hayes said:
Thanks for the replies everyone, I ordered the 300D MKII.

1.) I have a rolling C Stand and would like to put the light directly over an object from a bit of a distance. I'm guessing an arm like this is not going to be able to support the light https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/243966-REG/Avenger_A2030DKIT_A2030D_Turtle_Base_Century.html? What is a safe/stable arm that I can I look into getting?

2.) Can barn doors from older Arri lights be used with the 300D. I do not have the exact model #, just wondering if that is even something to look into?

Thanks
Click to expand...

1. I think it's too heavy to arm out completely with a c-stand. You could probably go as far as the main photo from the link you posted (Avenger c-stand).

For reference, I can completely arm out my intellytech LC-160 light, which weighs 4.1 lbs. Compare this with my area 48 panel, which weighs 10 lbs and bent the c-stand arm (wish I didn't do that!).

Moving up from the c-stand are small boom arms like these:
- https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/33150-REG/Matthews_427802_Mini_Matth_Boom.html
- https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/153409-REG/Avenger_D650_D650_Junior_Boom_Arm.html

Beyond this, you're entering serious set ups, for example by using menace arms/goal posts:
- menace arm - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MLFNGZkZFRo
- goal post - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n1LaSvA94L0

Even with lights that aren't very heavy, the potential risk is elevated when rigging over people/objects - this is where a dedicated professional will save the day.

2. No, at least not without modifying yourself, which wouldn't be worth the time/effort. Plus Aputure sells barn doors to attach directly to the light.
 
It is possible to make a small goalpost wit 2 Cstands, knuckles and a bit of 5/8 rod/tube up to about 6ft I guess

Usually better than hanging a menace arm style as you dont need counterweights.

==

Stills photography can cheaply be improved by use of strobe flash which in terms of lumens/$ is an order of magnitude brighter than constant lights. Dont be scared of strobe flash.
 
To the OP - I have the 300DII in V mount as well as barn doors, fresnel lens & spotlight 26 attachment for it. I also bought a large octobox for it - but have not used that as much as the other accessories (mostly due to Covid). Purchased all in Dec of 2019. And I think you will be really happy with yours. It puts out a decent amount of light for the power draw - especially when using the fresnel lens with it.

As for the battery mount - as others have said - it really depends on what you already own. If I were just now buying and didn't have any - I'd go the V mount route because it has increased in popularity and can be used probably on more things.

For the stand - you may be able to get away with a C stand with 40" arm -- but I'd feel a whole lot safer / better with at least something like this:
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/prod...r_A4039CS_A4039CS_Combi_Boom_Stand.html/specs

I actually own that Avenger stand and it has become one of my go to favorites - especially for booming any unit 20lbs or less. (it's rated up to 26lbs - but not sure that is when booming). I have a small sandbag with mine that gets clipped on as counterweight. Especially if you working solo - or limited crew - walking away from a stand that *might* be able to hold something in boom position is no way to work. Even though the head of the 300DII isn't super heavy - I'd get something a bit beefier to be on the safe side. Just my 2 cents...
 
Thanks for all the info.

1. How hot does this light get? Is it a bad idea to put diffusion paper or gels directly over the reflector?
2. When using the barn doors and wanting to defuse with them, do you clip the diffusion paper/material to the barn doors or put it in the built in gel holder? Thanks, just planning ahead, I need to buy some gels and clips.
 
kat.hayes said:
Thanks for all the info.

1. How hot does this light get? Is it a bad idea to put diffusion paper or gels directly over the reflector?
2. When using the barn doors and wanting to defuse with them, do you clip the diffusion paper/material to the barn doors or put it in the built in gel holder? Thanks, just planning ahead, I need to buy some gels and clips.
Click to expand...

1. Not that hot. I have put diffusion and gels directly over the reflector as well as on barn doors - and not seen any signs of melting.
2. Mostly because I started in this business long ago - working with tungsten & HMI only - my habit to this day is to clip gels & diffusion to barn doors - usually creating concave (or is it convex ?) area for a bit extra space between heat source and material. Old habits die slowly...But I've been meaning to take some of my 1/4 and half CTO and cut to size for the gel holder. So can report back if you don't get yours soon.
 
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