This video will help you replace your broken G3 antenna....

legrevedotcom

legrevedotcom

Veteran
...atleast it partially did for me. Of course it also helped being the son of a electronic technician (I think that was what it was called back in the glorious 80s)...

I had an antenna which was loose in the rubbersocket. Would still transmit but with slight amount of noise.

So after Sennheiser couldn't be bothered to answer my mails about pricing on repairs, I decided to do the job myself.
I found the video, bought the supplies online (got the antenna from Thomann in europe) and go to it.

To my surprise, replacing the antenna is way more easy than I though, took no more than 5-10 min from start to finish.

Anyways, in case anyone else needs to replace their antenna, check out this video and do it yourself. It's that easy...

 
Nice instructions. Thanks. Hasn't happened to me yet but glad to know that it's an easy fix.
 
I know this is a silly question, but if the aerial was loose, then the only issue could have been the soldering of the antenna L shaped pin to the board. This is the only thing that would allow the aerial to be loose. So are you sure the real problem wasn't just a dry joint? After all - between the bottom pin and the flexible whip is just one totally encapsulated joint where the L shaped link joins the whip, and I've never know that to fail? A bit of wire soldered to the board solder pad would work just as well - so as in the video, the old aerial desoldered and detached very easily, I wonder of the actual whip needed replacing at all?
 
I've replaced a few antennas' on older G2s, (a ten minute job with the right tools and skills) usually the plastic coating has deteriorated and chunks of it broken off, or the inner wire antenna itself badly deformed. I've not encountered a bad solder connection or captive mount from the factory.
 
That's my point - electrically, the only issue is likely to be the solder joint on the pcb - mechanical damage that reveals the inner, or even right angle bends straightened out don't really impact on performance because a 1/4 wave on an iffy ground plane isn't the ideal match in the first place. You can even bore out the square plastic and fit a BNC into it to remote the aerial, but the pcb pad is the weakest link. A quick solder reflow might have cured this one for less expense.
 
No... The issue wad that the thin part of the antenna wasnt fixed inside the bendable part. I could actually pull out and reinsert the thin part into the rest. So a signal was still coming through just quite noisy...
 
If one is to go through the trouble of reattaching an antenna, I wonder if there's any value in replacing the external boot with a BNC connector. Could then a shark fin be attached? Or perhaps just makes replacing the antennae easier in the future? I understand the case would need a little modification, but I can't help but ponder the potential.
 
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