The Big DSLR (tracking) Time-Lapse Thread!

new to the forum, but have been shooting timelapse for several years, originally on 16mm and 35mm motion picture film, then on DV with interval record feature, and most recently with a CANON 20D controlled by laptop. just ordered the TC80N3...

to address exposure questions for sunset or changing scenes, depending on what DSLR you are shooting, on the CANON 20D for example, it is possible to use the Exposure Bracketing to create multiple exposures of a single frame/instant.

once in post, you assemble multiple timelapses animations of the same scene, one at normal exposure, one under exposed, and the third overexposed... then you merely dissolve between animations at the point you wish to have more or less exposure... long dissolves even out the change.

the main drawback to this method is image processing times... for the multiple bracketed exposures. this dictates slightly longer intervals between capturing frames, which depending on the subject, may or may not be acceptable. shooting JPEG instead of RAW makes this almost a non-issue.

as far as Ron Fricke, they did do some iris riding, but traditionally for filmed time lapse most of the exposure differences are worked out in post... with film having considerably more latitude than DSLR's etc... and the ability to take multiple passes in telecine if necessary, then combining them via dissolves in post.

i recently did a cross country time lapse with the CANON 20D mounted in the dash of a U-Haul truck driving from PA to CA through winter storms, etc... this was triggered via laptop using the Canon software. both camera and laptop were powered from a 12V DC to 120V AC converter from the cigarette lighter. mount on dash was pro quality ball head mounted to a piece of 12" x 12" birch wood and ratchet strapped down to points on dash, with a black fabric matte box or sorts fabricated from inside the windshield to control light and windshield glare.

other than feeling like i was flying the Millenium Falcon when the periodic software freeze occurs, requiring me to shut down both camera and laptop, unplug controller cable, reboot, etc (thru a heavy snowstorm that eventually required turning back and finding a hotel), it was a pretty good way to do things. captured over 25,000 frames thru the course of a five day drive.

working on animating them now. will keep you all posted.
kevo
 
Hi, I am considering to Buy Canon Digital Rebel XTi (I think 400d). Would the Canon intervalometer also work with this camera as it does iwth 350D? I also chcked the link Tom suppplied for the guy who does modification to the intervalometer but the link doesn't work :(

Sincerely,

M
 
HagerNYC said:
Beautiful work.
I was trying this just last week with some clouds out my bedroom window. I used a Nikon D70s, but when I brought the image sequence into After Effects there were brightness fluctuations frame by frame. Has anyone else had this happen, and also doesn't After Effects have a filter that balances out brightness fluctuations?


I'de love to find out if there is a filter for that as well. So many videos in this thread have remarkably little fluctuations in color and brightness, I'm wondering what the trick is, or do you just shoot when it is nor overly cloudy, and with something other than auto white balance?
 
kevo7 said:
new to the forum, but have been shooting timelapse for several years, originally on 16mm and 35mm motion picture film, then on DV with interval record feature, and most recently with a CANON 20D controlled by laptop. just ordered the TC80N3...

to address exposure questions for sunset or changing scenes, depending on what DSLR you are shooting, on the CANON 20D for example, it is possible to use the Exposure Bracketing to create multiple exposures of a single frame/instant.

once in post, you assemble multiple timelapses animations of the same scene, one at normal exposure, one under exposed, and the third overexposed... then you merely dissolve between animations at the point you wish to have more or less exposure... long dissolves even out the change.

the main drawback to this method is image processing times... for the multiple bracketed exposures. this dictates slightly longer intervals between capturing frames, which depending on the subject, may or may not be acceptable. shooting JPEG instead of RAW makes this almost a non-issue.

as far as Ron Fricke, they did do some iris riding, but traditionally for filmed time lapse most of the exposure differences are worked out in post... with film having considerably more latitude than DSLR's etc... and the ability to take multiple passes in telecine if necessary, then combining them via dissolves in post.

i recently did a cross country time lapse with the CANON 20D mounted in the dash of a U-Haul truck driving from PA to CA through winter storms, etc... this was triggered via laptop using the Canon software. both camera and laptop were powered from a 12V DC to 120V AC converter from the cigarette lighter. mount on dash was pro quality ball head mounted to a piece of 12" x 12" birch wood and ratchet strapped down to points on dash, with a black fabric matte box or sorts fabricated from inside the windshield to control light and windshield glare.

other than feeling like i was flying the Millenium Falcon when the periodic software freeze occurs, requiring me to shut down both camera and laptop, unplug controller cable, reboot, etc (thru a heavy snowstorm that eventually required turning back and finding a hotel), it was a pretty good way to do things. captured over 25,000 frames thru the course of a five day drive.

working on animating them now. will keep you all posted.
kevo

lol, you're an animal with that cross-country setup. trust me, as soon as you get that TC80 you are going to be stoked. btw, i can't wait to see the results. please do me a favor and post them on this thread, if you don't mind!
 
mastroiani said:
Hi, I am considering to Buy Canon Digital Rebel XTi (I think 400d). Would the Canon intervalometer also work with this camera as it does iwth 350D? I also chcked the link Tom suppplied for the guy who does modification to the intervalometer but the link doesn't work :(

Sincerely,

M
yes the intervalometer will work just fine with it.

here is the link to Hap Griffin's site... i'm very sure he can help you with the mod. maybe i posted the link incorrectly eariler...

http://www.hapg.org/astrocables.htm
 
Hey Mythopolis, i love your timelapse video.. Very inspiring stuff

For the city shots, with the moving boats and cars.. what interval did you use?

There was a discussion somewhere else on the board about the "Lens Flickering" when using larger F/stops.

*edit*

lol, didnt see there were 3 pages more to read before i replied.. good thread

Anyway, heres the other thread i was talking about http://www.dvxuser.com/V6/showthread.php?t=79086
 
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soeborg said:
wish I had got a Cannon

What nikon do you have? I've used nikons exclusively for my timelapse work since I already had a nice collection of lenses...

kevo7 said:
it is possible to use the Exposure Bracketing to create multiple exposures of a single frame/instant.

You should check out HDR... here is one of my HDR sequences that I started at +2ev and ended at -4ev with three bracketed shots (+1,0,-1) and post processed in Photomatix. Very similar to the process your talking about except the HDR software does the calculation for each bracket rather than doing three separate streams in the end. Actually... here are a bunch of examples I've done:

www.imapnet.com/jay

The one I'm referring to is the top left one.
 
Matt Grunau said:
I'de love to find out if there is a filter for that as well. So many videos in this thread have remarkably little fluctuations in color and brightness, I'm wondering what the trick is, or do you just shoot when it is nor overly cloudy, and with something other than auto white balance?

So far the options I know about are gbdeflicker and red giant film fix... If you start with everything 'locked down' - manual exposure, fixed F, fixed WB - then your 90% there.
 
I've thought about making timelapse videos ever since I saw Baraka, and when I found this thread I got even more eager to get started.
Do you guys have any good tips for a good intervalometer for the Nikon D80 cameras? Or does the D80 have an intervalometer on it's own like the D200?
 
I've thought about making timelapse videos ever since I saw Baraka, and when I found this thread I got even more eager to get started.
Do you guys have any good tips for a good intervalometer for the Nikon D80 cameras? Or does the D80 have an intervalometer on it's own like the D200?

The D80 was shafted by nikon as far as timelapse. If im not mistaken, No ten pin connector so no 'unaltered' mc-36. You'd have to get an aftermarket int. timer or be teathered to nikon's capture software via usb.

I would have picked up the d80 in a heartbeat if it had an interval timer. The bastards force you up to a d200. But hey I love the camera in so many ways so.... yummy expensive pill to swallow.
 
Hey Tom - Skipping over here from my post on my time-lapse movie STEEL SKIES, per your invitation.

DVX Post: http://www.dvxuser.com/V6/showthread.php?t=76617

Time-lapse Movie: http://cinematiccd.com/votesteelskies

But wow, honestly I don't think I have too much info to add on what you guys have already covered. Like QUEGLAY, I like to move all of my shots around in AE, sometimes creating simulated dolly moves in 3D space (ie, the barn shot in STEEL SKIES.) I have a FAQ page that outlines my process using long shutter and AE here:

http://mythopolis.com/faq.htm

But I'd love to see some final results of the rigs you are planning to implement.



Todd - Funny you should mention this. I usually do long exposures on time-lapse (about 2 seconds) but for some recent shots during the day I did shorter exposures and used F8- F11 and I got inconsistent exposures - a sort of subtle flicker between shots in my sequence. Do you know why? Is that what you are experiencing?

tk

In order to get consistent exposures, you must use the aperture control ring on the lens rather than the control dials on your camera. Here is a link on the issue:

http://aaronlinsdau.com/gear/articles/time_lapse1.html

The camera computes the position to push the arm to control the lens aperture. There are slight variations in that. But, if you control the f-stop ring, the camera hits a hard stop and makes the exposure much more consistent.

Now, if I can figure out how to get a Meade telescope head for pan/tilt and mount another to a track for dolly, I'll be set!
 
Actually gbdeflicker works quite well on slight flutter due to aperture variations in post...

I've just figured out how to feed commands to a meade system like my custom made head: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mJf-ZgTKBcw

So what is the dirt on a good budget dolly? I'm sure I could figure out how to drive it...
 
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