Terminating Wired Lav Mic

Peter C.

Veteran
I'm looking to replace some of my wired lav mics because the cables and connections have become damaged over the years due to abuse from being used in depositions. Resulting in humming sound due to the cable connection position.

I would normally re-solder the end like I would with XLR cables, but I heard people say the wiring and shielding is so small and delicate it very difficult replace a cable or connection.

I saw the same mic I currently use (Audio-Technica AT899) that costs $269 for sale on Ebay for $149 but I'm pretty sure the end is unterminated. This would require me to solder a new end but I'm not sure whether I could do it and if it's worth the hassle.

Has anyone attempted to resolder a lavalier with any success?
 
FWIW, your B&H link has a used one for $170 that presumably works 100%. Look under 'add to cart' for the used model (there are two once you click the link, but only one is $170).

And there are a few on eBay for even lower that appear to be working via XLR.
 
If an XLR is wanted, a Phantom Power (or battery) supply/adapter is needed to provide the bias voltage. If 48 volts were applied directly it would fry the mic. Bodypack transmitters usually supply bias powers so separate PS is not needed. Most of the transmitter plugs have very small solder terminals and are difficult to solder.. Some mics (Countryman for instance) may require a resistor in the plug as well.
 
FWIW, your B&H link has a used one for $170 that presumably works 100%. Look under 'add to cart' for the used model (there are two once you click the link, but only one is $170).

And there are a few on eBay for even lower that appear to be working via XLR.
I'd prefer not to buy used if possible.
 
If an XLR is wanted, a Phantom Power (or battery) supply/adapter is needed to provide the bias voltage. If 48 volts were applied directly it would fry the mic. Bodypack transmitters usually supply bias powers so separate PS is not needed. Most of the transmitter plugs have very small solder terminals and are difficult to solder.. Some mics (Countryman for instance) may require a resistor in the plug as well.
I already have the power adapters, I'm replacing the mic with same model mic.

I found a video soldering a lav. You can see how small everything is. I noticed after the repair there's a static noise. I think he made a mistake using a stereo jack instead of mono or it's powering issue
 
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If you could do it yourself that would be cool, but it's such little money overall for a mic that I don't know if it's worth the hassle.

You could always return the used one it doesn't work for you, but I hear you though.
 
I just tested all my mics and only one of them has an issue. It seems to be a grounding related. If you touch the head of the mic it causes a hum, otherwise it is fine.

Yeah I don't think I will go to the trouble of trying to solder.
 
I've done it a few times. If you have the right tools (a decent iron and small diameter wire strippers), it's not a problem. What helps is to have a finer solder tip and a solder iron with temperature control so that you're not putting too much heat into it. Some lavalieres use colored varnished wires that look like they have no insulation on them. You simply burn the varnish off with solder and heat. Another problem may be that the XLR connector is not made to clamp onto the small diameter cable so you get no strain relief. In this case, I put a layer or two of marine heat shrink tubing (has hot glue on the inside) to build up the diameter.

May I suggest using a locking 3.5mm connector instead of an XLR and then use a 3.5/XLR adapter on the cable to eliminate having that heavy connector dangling during installation and removal. Once it is on the talent, then you can plug the 3.5mm to the XLR that is strain relieved with a belt clip.

Here is a useful adapter that has the locking 3.5mm connector and it also converts 48V to plug-in-power - https://www.sweetwater.com/store/det...ower-convertor
 
Terminating lav mics is not a problem - BUT - you need a smaller tip iron, and a good way to hold the cable in the right position so the minimum amount of heat is used. I've got one of those multi crock clip things, so you align the tinned end on the tinned terminal physically, then a short burst of heat to flow the solder and it's done. Fingers are too big, that's all.
 
Thanks for the tips. I have enough tools to do it, except for the small tip variable iron.

I would reuse the existing end because it’s well designed micro xlr. I like AT899 cables because they’re long but they are very thin and flexible. Ideal for running under clothing but not great for taking abuse and shielding.

Talking about it makes me want to do it.

edit: I found on Ebay a complete kit used only once for $89 so I went with that.
 
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A small 15W basic iron works pretty well on these small thing - like lemo connectors and other dinky ones.
 
I bought some XLR Phantom Power supplies/adapters for some of the mics I normally use with my Lectos (TA5 plugs), but there was some kind of ground loop happening, Connecting the cable shield to the TA5 plug's barrel cured it. This behavior was not present when using the mic with the transmitters.
 
I bought some XLR Phantom Power supplies/adapters for some of the mics I normally use with my Lectos (TA5 plugs), but there was some kind of ground loop happening, Connecting the cable shield to the TA5 plug's barrel cured it. This behavior was not present when using the mic with the transmitters.
I agree wired lav are susceptible to grounding and shielding related issues. I did a deposition today and one them had a hum. I pretty sure due to internal damage to the shielding in the cable. Here's a sample https://drive.google.com/file/d/138fsubVsS0C3HjNmr-re0ZCWke2x7vTU/view?usp=sharing
 
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