Source Four ETC or Philips Leko?

cd_albert

Active member
Hey guys,

Looking to get a Source Four, didn't realise there is a ETC version (the original?) and a Philips 'Strand' version.

Anyone used both? Differences?
 
We have a bunch of the source four zooms in standard and mini, they are a really nice fixture. We also have a few of the ETC fresnels that take the hpl lamps, also a nice fixture.
 
The Source Fours are kind of the standard. Good value. I have two with 50 degree lenses. Added a 26 degree lens for when I need smaller projection. Also added two Rosco iPro pattern projector kits a few years ago(make your own custom slides/patterns in full color on their special transparency film in your inkjet printer). They have allowed me to do some cool things.

I've looked at the zooms, but they are way to big for easy transport, in my case. A regular Source Four fits in a Pelican 1650(with room for an Arri 650, 300, 2x 150's and dimmers, gels, etc.). That's a kit that can get you through a LOT.
 
Hmmm, we have one or two non zoom, but they aren't really much smaller, I forget the angle of them. They also make some micro architectural lights, with a proper stand or grid adapter these would be at home in studio or location. Normally found in white paint to blend with the ceiling, but they do work well. They are also much more expensive.

We need to buy more of the fresnels, would cut down the number of lamps I need to keep in stock.
 
The Source 4 is the ETC brand fixture. The Strand fixture is the Leko(lite). ETC products have become the standard in theater. I would recommend them for how prevalent they are and getting parts for them is very easy.

Not to make it harder but there is a full size Source 4 and a Source 4 Jr. The Jr is smaller, lighter and will only go up to 575w. It also doesn't have the rotatable barrel and will take M-size gobos. The full size Source 4 will take a 750w lamps, takes A or B patterns and has a rotatable barrel. It is a bit bigger, heavier and more expensive. The optics are much better in the full size as well. Another selling point is that the full size has interchangeable barrels and renting other degree lens would be much easier with an ETC fixture.
 
Well, I've been a firm supporter of Strand since they were Strand Electric, then Rank Strand, then Strand - and Phillips taking them over was the death knoll. Every UK theatre had a Strand control, and they were as close to a standard that we had. Then Phillips came along - threw away the good stuff, promoted pretty poor equipment and ETC took over the controls in UK theatre. Source 4's became the standard profile (what we call them in the UK), and the Strand SLs were never that popular. I have some in my rig and wouldn't swap them. Philips, in my humble opinion were asset strippers, who threw so much of the historic good practice away. Source 4's have good optics, are reliable and simple to focus. If you break one, bits are simplest to get, and they're pretty tough anyway.
 
Next question is after loads of searching I'm struggling to find a case for the Source Four 750W 25-50 Zoom....looking for a rigid soft case probably....found one or two but they cost around $400!

Any ideas?
 
Using pelican cases as a standard, you'd need a 1650 (excluding additional lens tubes/barrels). There'd be space for accessories too - gels, donut, iris, spare bulbs, gobos etc.

I'm using a milk crate for now but will probably get something soon. They're extremely durable so protection isn't really an issue but it will help being able to carry with one hand.

I really dislike rigid soft cases but just look on B&H for Lighting Cases then filter by interior length/width/height and you'll get something pretty close in size.
 
If you google american DJ cases you will find loads of quite cheap carrying bags - just find one big enough and you are away! There are also cases made from thin, bendy but quite strong plastic. I have some quite long ones that two source fours would fit inside - the disco world has loads of these kinds of things. Oddly, my source 4s all travel naked, on racks.
 
Thanks was searching Adorama's website and a few options came up...maybe will just go with a Peli...

One more question: Looking for a daylight conversion dichroic that fits..size B is it for the glass filter holder and can't find one? It's just me right, they must have one but nothing on their spec sheets etc.

cheers again for the info chaps!
 
Thanks was searching Adorama's website and a few options came up...maybe will just go with a Peli...

One more question: Looking for a daylight conversion dichroic that fits..size B is it for the glass filter holder and can't find one? It's just me right, they must have one but nothing on their spec sheets etc.

cheers again for the info chaps!

Just slap a piece of CTB on the front and be done with it. Pick up a $5 sheet at Barbizon and cut it down and you'll be good to go for a while. In my Gel roll, Kino's and Barfly's I carry 1/8 to Full CTO and CTB. Besides the CTO and CTB, I also carry minus and plus green in 1/8 to Full in the Gel Roll and HMI cases. I really recommend carrying a full range of color correction with your light kits. Sometimes when your trying to match existing/natural light, you just cannot do it with straight tungsten or daylight and you have to finesse it.
 
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Just slap a piece of CTB on the front and be done with it. Pick up a $5 sheet at Barbizon and cut it down and you'll be good to go for a while. In my Gel roll, Kino's and Barfly's I carry 1/8 to Full CTO and CTB. Besides the CTO and CTB, I also carry minus and plus green in 1/8 to Full in the Gel Roll and HMI cases. I really recommend carrying a full range of color correction with your light kits. Sometimes when your trying to match existing/natural light, you just cannot do it with straight tungsten or daylight and you have to finesse it.

It was more that you lose 1 stop with a dicroic vs 2 1/3 with CTB gel...want to maintain as much punch as possible.
 
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