reflex
Well-known member
This started a while back on another message board. Now i'm all confused and sh*te and want to get the info straight.
I'll post what I wrote in blue and what other people wrote in yellow.
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Someone posted a way to author a DVD using 24p footage without adding a pulldown. So he posted this small tutorial. Then here's some of the first posts....
Wow, thanks! I'll have to give this a try! I've never really messed with 24p footage much, mainly because I wasn't sure how much of a diference it made. Anywho, thanks for the input!
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yea, when i shot 24p, i think it looks so much better. 60i looks horribly videoy no matter what you do to it. 30p is the best bet if you want a filmy look, but still 24p is 4/5 the number of frames of 30p, so there is no comparison. 24p has the jitter of film and looks almost just like it if you put the right filters on it.
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Getting the correct algorithm to seamlessly morph it from 24-30 is the real test.
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? why would you want to convert it back to 30? if you are making a dvd, its best jsut to leave it at 24 from what i have experienced.
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Unless you happen to have a television that can play 24fps, you'll have to change it. And I've never seen a television able to do that. The average television runs NTSC (30fps) or PAL (25fps).------------------
Now here's where the discussion starts............
What do you mean ' it's best just to leave it at 24 from what you have experienced ' ?? It doesn't matter what the frame rate of the footage is.
Televisions don't 'run' at any frame rate. The speed of VIDEO is 30 frames per second, the speed film runs at is 24 fps, ( although now a lot of the video cams are coming with a 24fps option ) PAL is just a different format for there sh*t over there. Since their broacast standards are a little different than here, but that has to do with resolution, not fps.
TV's will play any frame rate from 1 to one billion. The speed that you record something is just personal preference. The only reason to encode a DVD with true 24p footage is for space saving purposes. If you really don't need the extra frames and are trying to fit a lot on there then it would make sense, otherwise 24 and 30 frame footage is identical. You will not tell the difference.
I always seem to get into battles over this LOL but I'm going to chime in again...
24p makes no difference as far as getting the film look. The 'look' of film and the 'look' of video are different because they are totally different processes. Film is a chemical process and video, and electronic process. Frame rate and jitter and all that sh*t doesn't make it more film like. Do you see any major motion pictures that looks jittery and studdered? The reason that the 24p cameras look more 'filmic' is because of the 'P' in 24p. Progressive mode. It takes full frames instead of shooting two half fields. The little difference in frames will not make your video look like film. Another reason for the 'filmic' look is the gamma and light settings on the cameras. Most of the 24p camera have advances gamma curve settings and ways to control the light entering the camera, much the way a more expensive film camera would. So that helps a lot.
Another thing that helps too is that on bigger films, they use super nice lenses. AND they switch them up for different shots. i.e. wide angles ( that need little focusing if any at all ) zoom lenses, etc... But most of the time the lenses have a MUCH shorter depth of field than our smaller prosumer/professional camcorders. PLUS ever watch behind the scenes on DVD's? and sometimes they put the deleted scenes on there ( some of the ones where they didn't do any post work on them ) and they look like sh*t. They do a lot of work in post to color correct and adjust to get it to look good.
I mean, jitter and all that is ok if you're going for that look for artistic purposes or you are trying to make a movie from the 1930's... other than that you can have it. I'm not trying to come down on you or anyone for liking 24p but I just dont believe that it's ' gods gift ' to people that can't shoot on film for whatever reason. In the future , maybe advances can be made to make video totally emulate the look of film but for right now, it's just not quite there.
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Film something (anything, but preferably a hand held shot with lots of stuff going on) for about 5 seconds. Plonk it twice in to an editing program and make one 24p (leaving one 30i). Stick it on a loop and watch it on TV.
If you think the 24p doesn't look any more like film, well you're blind.
I agree that grading, colour curves, levels, etc are all essential for getting a film look, the very first step would be to make it 24p.
At the end of the day, film is shot at 24p, so anything else wouldn't look like film.
Plus in this day and age, colouring on decent video formats can rival film so there's no need to add any filters (especially in PAL, not Never Twice the Same Colour)
Going back to the first question, I've found that Sony Vegas can do an amazing automatic job with all pull downs.
On a side note, most of the above is irrelivant for me because I use 25fps PAL, and all film is shot at or sped up to 25fps
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im sorry reflex, but i agree with the last guy. a few things i want to say on this topic again. first of all. 24p DOES look more filmic. it DOES NOT look EXACTLY like film, becaues like you said, it is a different process. this is true... but, i have been studying this for a couple years, and this is what i will say.
film cameras shoot pictures almost exactly like a still camera (only it uses rotating shutter) so, you get individual, full frame (progressive) shots. the frame rate of the regular film camera is 24fps. unless they do slow motion, which they have 1000fps cameras and i think i've seen 15,000fps cameras for recording bullets or the like.
so... to say 24p does not look like film any more than 30p or 60i is very untrue. and YES if you actually watch a movie and pay attention, IT IS VERY STUTTERY! you can't usually tell because in movies almost everything is dollied or steadicamed, and the number of pans you see is very small. however, if you watch a pan, or a camera following a person, watch the background carefully, and you will deffinately see a signifigant jitter compared to 30p or 60i footage. so, this does add to the filmic look.
yes lighting and coloring have a lot to do with it. also, DOF plays a big factor, because it is shot with film lenses and 35mm film, not 1/3 inch ccds. PLUS film has MUCH higher quality and detail than the average xl-2 or similar cameras.
so that being said, 24p will deffinately give you a much more filmic look with the right framing, camera movements, lighting, DOF, makeup, sound, etc.
as far as making a 24p dvd. VERY USEFUL! IT DOES MATTER WAT THE FOOTAGE FRAMRATE IS! if you shot 24p, exporting with pulldown will have artifacting through 2/5 of the video, which is very very noticeable. so if you shoot 24p, burn 23.976 dvd, to keep the original framerate, and to save disc space. and yes epsilon, 23.976 dvds do exist, it is also an ntsc standard. (open a dvd in windvd and count how many frames you go through by stepping frame by frame in one second. you will find it is 24.
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I have done before that and do see a little bit of difference. But not a film like difference. The reason that film looks the way it does is because of WHAT it is and the way it deals with light. It is rediculous to think that 24 frames per second is the reason that film looks the way it does. If it did matter then when they shot the uber slow motion stuff ( i.e. the Matrix fights ) it would change the look totally. Since they were shooting at like 160 fps.
The reason film is at 24 fps is because of the cost and use of the material. 24 frames per second is the smallest amount of frames that can go buy for the eye not to notice the jitteryness too much. A long time ago they started to use this so they weren't wasting more film than they needed to.
I'm telling you shooting non interlaced is what the main difference is and not the frames.----------------------------
When you author a DVD it doesn't automatically transfer the footage to 24 fps.
----------------------------
CONTINUED NEXT POST....
I'll post what I wrote in blue and what other people wrote in yellow.
---------------------------------------------
Someone posted a way to author a DVD using 24p footage without adding a pulldown. So he posted this small tutorial. Then here's some of the first posts....
Wow, thanks! I'll have to give this a try! I've never really messed with 24p footage much, mainly because I wasn't sure how much of a diference it made. Anywho, thanks for the input!
-------------
yea, when i shot 24p, i think it looks so much better. 60i looks horribly videoy no matter what you do to it. 30p is the best bet if you want a filmy look, but still 24p is 4/5 the number of frames of 30p, so there is no comparison. 24p has the jitter of film and looks almost just like it if you put the right filters on it.
-----------
Getting the correct algorithm to seamlessly morph it from 24-30 is the real test.
-----------------
? why would you want to convert it back to 30? if you are making a dvd, its best jsut to leave it at 24 from what i have experienced.
---------------------
Unless you happen to have a television that can play 24fps, you'll have to change it. And I've never seen a television able to do that. The average television runs NTSC (30fps) or PAL (25fps).------------------
Now here's where the discussion starts............
What do you mean ' it's best just to leave it at 24 from what you have experienced ' ?? It doesn't matter what the frame rate of the footage is.
Televisions don't 'run' at any frame rate. The speed of VIDEO is 30 frames per second, the speed film runs at is 24 fps, ( although now a lot of the video cams are coming with a 24fps option ) PAL is just a different format for there sh*t over there. Since their broacast standards are a little different than here, but that has to do with resolution, not fps.
TV's will play any frame rate from 1 to one billion. The speed that you record something is just personal preference. The only reason to encode a DVD with true 24p footage is for space saving purposes. If you really don't need the extra frames and are trying to fit a lot on there then it would make sense, otherwise 24 and 30 frame footage is identical. You will not tell the difference.
I always seem to get into battles over this LOL but I'm going to chime in again...
Another thing that helps too is that on bigger films, they use super nice lenses. AND they switch them up for different shots. i.e. wide angles ( that need little focusing if any at all ) zoom lenses, etc... But most of the time the lenses have a MUCH shorter depth of field than our smaller prosumer/professional camcorders. PLUS ever watch behind the scenes on DVD's? and sometimes they put the deleted scenes on there ( some of the ones where they didn't do any post work on them ) and they look like sh*t. They do a lot of work in post to color correct and adjust to get it to look good.
I mean, jitter and all that is ok if you're going for that look for artistic purposes or you are trying to make a movie from the 1930's... other than that you can have it. I'm not trying to come down on you or anyone for liking 24p but I just dont believe that it's ' gods gift ' to people that can't shoot on film for whatever reason. In the future , maybe advances can be made to make video totally emulate the look of film but for right now, it's just not quite there.
------------------------------------------------------------
Film something (anything, but preferably a hand held shot with lots of stuff going on) for about 5 seconds. Plonk it twice in to an editing program and make one 24p (leaving one 30i). Stick it on a loop and watch it on TV.
If you think the 24p doesn't look any more like film, well you're blind.
I agree that grading, colour curves, levels, etc are all essential for getting a film look, the very first step would be to make it 24p.
At the end of the day, film is shot at 24p, so anything else wouldn't look like film.
Plus in this day and age, colouring on decent video formats can rival film so there's no need to add any filters (especially in PAL, not Never Twice the Same Colour)
Going back to the first question, I've found that Sony Vegas can do an amazing automatic job with all pull downs.
On a side note, most of the above is irrelivant for me because I use 25fps PAL, and all film is shot at or sped up to 25fps
------------------------------------
im sorry reflex, but i agree with the last guy. a few things i want to say on this topic again. first of all. 24p DOES look more filmic. it DOES NOT look EXACTLY like film, becaues like you said, it is a different process. this is true... but, i have been studying this for a couple years, and this is what i will say.
film cameras shoot pictures almost exactly like a still camera (only it uses rotating shutter) so, you get individual, full frame (progressive) shots. the frame rate of the regular film camera is 24fps. unless they do slow motion, which they have 1000fps cameras and i think i've seen 15,000fps cameras for recording bullets or the like.
so... to say 24p does not look like film any more than 30p or 60i is very untrue. and YES if you actually watch a movie and pay attention, IT IS VERY STUTTERY! you can't usually tell because in movies almost everything is dollied or steadicamed, and the number of pans you see is very small. however, if you watch a pan, or a camera following a person, watch the background carefully, and you will deffinately see a signifigant jitter compared to 30p or 60i footage. so, this does add to the filmic look.
yes lighting and coloring have a lot to do with it. also, DOF plays a big factor, because it is shot with film lenses and 35mm film, not 1/3 inch ccds. PLUS film has MUCH higher quality and detail than the average xl-2 or similar cameras.
so that being said, 24p will deffinately give you a much more filmic look with the right framing, camera movements, lighting, DOF, makeup, sound, etc.
as far as making a 24p dvd. VERY USEFUL! IT DOES MATTER WAT THE FOOTAGE FRAMRATE IS! if you shot 24p, exporting with pulldown will have artifacting through 2/5 of the video, which is very very noticeable. so if you shoot 24p, burn 23.976 dvd, to keep the original framerate, and to save disc space. and yes epsilon, 23.976 dvds do exist, it is also an ntsc standard. (open a dvd in windvd and count how many frames you go through by stepping frame by frame in one second. you will find it is 24.
------------------------------
I have done before that and do see a little bit of difference. But not a film like difference. The reason that film looks the way it does is because of WHAT it is and the way it deals with light. It is rediculous to think that 24 frames per second is the reason that film looks the way it does. If it did matter then when they shot the uber slow motion stuff ( i.e. the Matrix fights ) it would change the look totally. Since they were shooting at like 160 fps.
The reason film is at 24 fps is because of the cost and use of the material. 24 frames per second is the smallest amount of frames that can go buy for the eye not to notice the jitteryness too much. A long time ago they started to use this so they weren't wasting more film than they needed to.
I'm telling you shooting non interlaced is what the main difference is and not the frames.----------------------------
When you author a DVD it doesn't automatically transfer the footage to 24 fps.
----------------------------
CONTINUED NEXT POST....