So I bought a Yongnuo YN160 camera mounted light, thoughts and results inside.

TERRA Operative

Active member
I just received my Ebay special Yongnuo YN160 camera mounted light. (No affiliation).
I needed something nice and bright for when I am running and gunning at night for docos etc.

This one was the right price and got ok reviews, so I though I'd give it a try and see how it goes. I've also done some basic testing with my i1 Display 2 calibrator to check colour temp and illumination.
Turns out it's not too bad so far. The whole thing is plastic, with 160 white LED's, barn doors (which are pretty much useless out of the box), some colour filters, and a few mounting and battery options.

Upon opening the box, I found a black velvet bag containing the gear which was a nice touch, inside was the following:
(Mind the vignetting from my old Olympus P&S).

lightassembly.jpg

lensfilters.jpg



The included accessories include a cold shoe mount, a foot for the cold shoe (for desktop use), a handle for hand-held work, a battery adapter, instruction manual (in Engrish and Chinese), a velvet bag, and 4 filters.

The unit measures 150mm wide, 115mm tall (not including the stand) and 52mm deep (without batteries protruding in the case of Sony/Panasonic batteries etc).
Dry weight is 310 grams, with hotshoe (barn doors weigh 53 grams included).
The mount seems ok, but being plastic you would want to be a little careful, especially with something like a Sony NP-970 battery on board.

There are a few options for battery power available. 6x AA batteries, Sony NP, or Panasonic CGR-D16S/D220 style batteries. Unfortunately there is no provision for an external power supply. It shouldn't be too hard to modify a DC jack in DIY style though, I plan to do it myself when I get a chance.
The filters come in diffuse white, red, orange, and blue. I'm not sure how useful the coloured filters will be outside an artistic approach, but it's easy enough to stick normal gels onto the light.

As for the barn doors, they are a reasonably good idea, but they don't quite work. The inner surface is shiny aluminium (it appears to be similar to the textured reflector used in halogen spotlights), so rather than block the light, they just reflect it in the other direction, making a square pattern in the illuminated area.
Painting the doors black will solve this issue though, as will removing them altogether. This is simply done with a small Philips screwdriver and a set of small pliers (the screws are loctited in, another nice touch).

On the back of the unit, there is a power button (slightly recessed so you don't press it in the dark while trying to adjust something else), a test button for battery level which illuminated a row of 5 red LED's (I'll have to test what the voltages that each LED corresponds to) and two buttons for brightness up and down. There are 16 steps from the brightest to the dimmest setting.

What about the actual light output?
I measured the light with my calibrator in a dark room to check both linearity in light output and consistency in colour temperature. The results were quite good.
It turns out the colour temp ranges from 5400K at the lowest setting to 5700K at the highest setting.
The light output (measured at 1 meter, with a fresh 7.4 volt Sony NP-F960 battery) ranged from 140 lux to 1554 lux and was practically perfectly linear across the whole 16 step range.
If anyone can show me how to use my calibrator to measure the actual colour of the light, I'll see how that goes across the full range too, although the colour looks pretty white, and seems to lack almost all of the characteristic blue tint of cheaper LED's. The spot has a *very* slight blueish cast in the centre, fading off to a *slight* yellow at the edges of the spot, it's barely noticeable though (I had to look at it on my flat white ceiling to see it).

Here are some photos of the light in action (the wall is cream coloured, so the yellow cast isn't the light itself).
The light was about a meter from the wall, the spot is about 1.5 meters in diameter.

No diffuser, barn doors wide open.
lightnodiffuser.jpg



With diffuser, barn doors wide open.
lightdiffused.jpg



No diffuser, barn doors almost fully closed.
barndoorsclosed.jpg





So far, it looks like a pretty good unit, as long as you either don't use the barn doors, or paint them black. Oh and be careful with the plastic hotshoe mount.
Once my AA Ni-MH batteries are charged, I'll see how long it lasts on a full charge.


As for actual use? We'll have to wait until I'm back from Japan. (Unless I get around to filming some night tests before then). :)
 
Interesting. Yongnuo is one Chinese mark I have developed a lot of respect for. I do a little still photography for fun and after some tests have wound up buying four Yongnuo speedlights and eight of their radio triggers, along with a shutter release timer, ball heads and other hardware over the last couple of years. I find their gear very well made with solid design and production values.
 
I've got a couple of these and would add some comments here:
1) I tried turning the barn doors around to make them "real" barn doors; they're black on the outside and pitted/reflective on the inside, so I turned the black side inwards. It doesn't help. The barn doors are pretty much pointless in all ways on these lights.
2) BEWARE DIMMING. If you're using the light on a CMOS/MOS camera, DO NOT DIM IT AT ALL. Any dimming will cause scrolling lines and waves in your MOS camera's footage. Only use these lights at absolute 100% brightness.

Other than those two things, they're pretty good lights. They have a handle which can be mounted on a light stand, which is a nice touch.

If you need dimming, there are others out there that handle it better - the CN126 and Z96 both dim in a way that lets CMOS cameras work without creating bands or scrolling lines. But the YN160 has a brighter and wider output than either of them.
 
Good point re. dimming. I have a HDR-FX1, (CMOS) so I don't have that problem. I'll test it out with the iPhone and see what happens....

The LED's are probably pulsed at different rates (PWM, pulse width modulation) to get the different brightness levels, longer pulses = more on time = brighter light. His pulsing is what the CMOS camera will detect.
The easy way around it on the design side is to have the LED's pulsing as two alternating groups (ie. every even LED is one group and is on while every odd LED is another group which is off and vice-versa).
 
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