Hey everyone, I'm new to posting on the board but I've been using it for awhile now. I'm getting ready to do a corporate video and I have a problem. How do I shoot a window in daylight without an elaborate lighting setup.
It depends. How big are these windows? Are they you're primary source of light? If they are small enough, and you can afford the materials and grips, you can cut down the light coming from the windows with ND roll filters. I have used them on many shoots and they help me keep my interior units small while retaining information on the outside. Otherwise, you would have to set your exposure through the windows and then use big lights inside to match your higher f-stop setting. It is a tricky business.
I guess you're talking about shooting inside a room with a window in the frame.
Best way is to buy ND (grey) filter gels (Lee) and put that on the whole damn window. That might look strange for the naked eye but gives a perfect look for the cam. You might need some light to make up for the light that has been filtered from outside, though.
If you're shooting something that's on the other side of the window, consider a good Polarizing filter. These can help eliminate window glare if used properly, enabling you to see straight through. Naturally, where the lights are in relation to the window will be a big factor!
ND roll is the way to go, but there are a ton of variables. If your not shooting directly to the window (ie you can see out it) you can raise a sheet or silk up on the outside to cut down the contrast. If your looking out the window, a cheap way depending on how bright it is to "scrim" the windows with screen door fabric you can pick up at home depot for pretty cheap. You wont be able to see the screen on Video.
Yes you can use roll gels to knock down the window or you can also use roscoscrim, which is basically screen material, over the outside of the window. You might see a hint of the screen pattern but i find that prefferable to a blown out window.
Also factor in the color temperature difference. If you're using tungsten light indoors, and daylight streaming through the window, you may have problems. If the window isn't actually overpowering your lighting, then it can look okay -- the blue of outside can look aesthetically pleasing, if you like it. But, if it's actually shining light in that is affecting your subject, you could end up in a tricky situation. In that case, you can put ND85 gel on the windows (if you're already gelling the window with ND gel to cut down the brightness, you can go the extra step of getting color-correcting ND gel, which will change the color temperature of the daylight to match with your indoors tungsten lights.)
That, or use HMI's or daylight-balanced fluorescents to light your subject...
What is out side the window? Can you shoot at a time when the sun is not directly hitting the scene? Can you block the sun in order to cut down on the intensity of the light?
I always try to bring it down to the basics.
Q: What’s the problem here?
A: The camera doesn’t have enough latitude to handle the amount of contrast in the scene.
Q: How do I compress the contrast to fit within the limits of the camera?
A: Lower the highs or raise the lows.
That is what all these suggestions are about; ND gels, screens, waiting for the natural light to change are all ways of bring down the highs; using more lights inside will bring up the lows.
When you break it down to the basic issue it is easier to come up with creative ideas as apposed to locking yourself into the way it is supposed to be done.
Why can't you simply schedule the shoot at sunrise and then sunset ! This is when this camera shines! The light is a lot sweeter in southern latitudes but this seems a simple surefire way to guarantee your shoot! Have an assistant or 2 and a lot of differentt light choices to sus it out quickly and get shooting! Seems simple but shooting out windows at the 1st and last 1 1/2 hours of sunlight has always worked for me! Haapy Shooting!!!!