Shooting macro??
- Thread starter whizzkid
- Start date
Ryan Patrick O'Hara
Veteran
What do you mean without the macro lens of the HVX? Why not use the camera's ability?
That shot has several options:
1) Move the camera close to the subject and use the macro focus ability
2) Back the camera away from the subject and zoom in on the eye ball
3) Perhaps use some sort of magnifying device such as those large magnifying glasses they have at the dentist.
4) CGI, haha
Again, why cant you use the HVX's macro ability?
That shot has several options:
1) Move the camera close to the subject and use the macro focus ability
2) Back the camera away from the subject and zoom in on the eye ball
3) Perhaps use some sort of magnifying device such as those large magnifying glasses they have at the dentist.
4) CGI, haha
Again, why cant you use the HVX's macro ability?
Ryan Patrick O'Hara
Veteran
Yeah it's going to be tricky with light but try to get to a location with LOTS of bright bounced soft light. That should get to the subjects eye with little directional tone or interference.
Best of luck.
Best of luck.
Vincent Pascoe
Well-known member
HA for years I have been trying to shoot as close as possible...
It started with a Feature I shot where after every sceen I would shoot little macro shots of the sceen... few where used but it opened my eyes to another way of seeing things...
Maco dolly shots are my favorite...(my AC's hate em)
first the Iris gag is a lighting gag so outside the Pupils will be closed down. to much... so In doors with lights on a dimmer is a good start... so that you get the iris changeing in shot.
things I've tryed...
Straight macro...
yes lens has to be wide and you have to be really close... and yes that close lighting can start to get tricky...
Zoomed in...
once zoomed in you lose the macro on the HVX and never seems so close..
+10 Diopter...
really Close... but loss of quality a lot of Cromatic Banding....plus only really worked on wider side of lens...
90mm macro 1:1 lens with diopters....
Shot Lady bug flying off with this lens... tight but wish I had the 105mm and i've gotten tigher with my still camera with the 1.5x censor...
Oh on Red 300mm shooting at 2k so croping in making the Angle of view= to 600mm at minimum foucus....
moral of the story is on my days off I try to see how close up I can shoot george washington on a quater...
VP
It started with a Feature I shot where after every sceen I would shoot little macro shots of the sceen... few where used but it opened my eyes to another way of seeing things...
Maco dolly shots are my favorite...(my AC's hate em)
first the Iris gag is a lighting gag so outside the Pupils will be closed down. to much... so In doors with lights on a dimmer is a good start... so that you get the iris changeing in shot.
things I've tryed...
Straight macro...
yes lens has to be wide and you have to be really close... and yes that close lighting can start to get tricky...
Zoomed in...
once zoomed in you lose the macro on the HVX and never seems so close..
+10 Diopter...
really Close... but loss of quality a lot of Cromatic Banding....plus only really worked on wider side of lens...
90mm macro 1:1 lens with diopters....
Shot Lady bug flying off with this lens... tight but wish I had the 105mm and i've gotten tigher with my still camera with the 1.5x censor...
Oh on Red 300mm shooting at 2k so croping in making the Angle of view= to 600mm at minimum foucus....
moral of the story is on my days off I try to see how close up I can shoot george washington on a quater...
VP
Hi everyone,
thank you all for your advice. Just to let you know I decided to film it in 1080i 30p and it looks nice! I tried to get as close as i can and pull the image closer in post. So i got the shot that I wanted but that close still. I shot it outside 2pm and an opening at 2.8 BUT i encountered a huge problem. I CAN SEE THE CAMERA IN THE PUPIL.
Any ideas on how to shoot this some other way?
thank you all for your advice. Just to let you know I decided to film it in 1080i 30p and it looks nice! I tried to get as close as i can and pull the image closer in post. So i got the shot that I wanted but that close still. I shot it outside 2pm and an opening at 2.8 BUT i encountered a huge problem. I CAN SEE THE CAMERA IN THE PUPIL.
Any ideas on how to shoot this some other way?
hoarp001
Veteran
hi, ive been doing exactly this:
I found this trick where you can take two film lenses and put them end to end, front elements facing. The back of one of the lenses can be mounted to a 35mm adpater, (i use the SGpro flip) and you can get relly nice macro. I can actualy zoom in closer than this.
I found this trick where you can take two film lenses and put them end to end, front elements facing. The back of one of the lenses can be mounted to a 35mm adpater, (i use the SGpro flip) and you can get relly nice macro. I can actualy zoom in closer than this.
Ryan Patrick O'Hara
Veteran
If you shoot it in a dark room, with lots of light hitting the actor, then usually hanging black fabric around the camera and operator will hide it within the dark room and there will be nothing to reflect on the eye ball.
ProfessorU
Veteran
Hoarp001, that shot is seriously intense. Is the pupil in focus and the eyelid out? Seriously?
Maybe you can dial out the camera reflection with a polarizer? Painting out the camera digitally isn't much work, either.
This sounds like a job for a ringlight.
Maybe you can dial out the camera reflection with a polarizer? Painting out the camera digitally isn't much work, either.
This sounds like a job for a ringlight.
puredrifting
Major Contributor
I did a shoot last year where we wanted to have a typewriter key come up toward camera and fill up the frame. The best tool to achieve this effect is to rent the HD Mini Probe system. I think it was around $500.00 per day and worked really well. http://www.innovisionoptics.com/prod/mini_probe.shtml
The one factor that most of the posts here have ignored is field of view. With camera macro, you have to endure all kinds of barrel distortion, the shadows and lens covering up the subject, etc.
The HD Mini Probe also lets you do shots with a flat field, deep depth of field, etc. It's a good tool for those rare times when you need to do a shot like this. I love it, I wish that I could justify buying one.
Dan
The one factor that most of the posts here have ignored is field of view. With camera macro, you have to endure all kinds of barrel distortion, the shadows and lens covering up the subject, etc.
The HD Mini Probe also lets you do shots with a flat field, deep depth of field, etc. It's a good tool for those rare times when you need to do a shot like this. I love it, I wish that I could justify buying one.
Dan