Shooting green screen outdoors

C

Connolly

Member
I am going to be shooting a green screen in an outdoor environment what kind of lighting variable should I expect? Is there a certain type of light that I should have available to get the best results or will bounce boards be enough? The shoot will last at least five hours, Is there any easy way to adjust for the movement of the sun? Has anybody ever tried this? Thanks ahead of time for the input, you guys rock.

Scott
 
Re: Shooting green screen outdoors

My client wants to capture people off the street to do impromptu greenscreen perfomances. So we have to shoot outdoors. He has a portable screen that is easily set up and taken down, but lighting is a different story. Anybody have any ideas? I have heard that I should face the greenscreen to the north to limit shadows, and possibly lean it forward a couple of degrees. Should I have him get some kinos that light at 5600k to match the sunlight? I am a lighting newbie so any help would be greatly appreciated. We will be shooting in 24pa.
 
Re: Shooting green screen outdoors

I'm sure most any light source will work but the key (no pun) here is EVEN LIGHTING. NO HOT SPOTS.
 
Re: Shooting green screen outdoors

Hi,

From my limited knowledge of lighting I would try emphasizing more grip equipment then bringing in additional lights. For the most part the kinos would not make much impact competing with the power of the sun. Depending on how "run and gun" you need to be I would put up some silks or diffusion material to soften and even out your light. Make sure to test, test and test some more before the day. Shooting on an overcast day would help as well.
 
Re: Shooting green screen outdoors

I've done this successfully. In direct sunlight the main thing is to have even lighting on the screen (you can even lean it back if you need to. Flat to the source works best), and try and have the screen far enough behind your subjest so you minimize the green bounce on them. . I just shot so the screen and the subject were frontlit by the sun, and I used a 4x4 frame of opal or 250 diffusion (a silk is too much) close to the subject to soften the sunlight on them. For this setup, the green screen is brighter than optimal (I usually like it a stop under my subject) but it should still pull a key. You just want to back it off to minimize the bounce.
Then the clouds came. Again, position the screen for even lighting, re-white balance because your color temperature is higher and will add a lot of blue to your screen. I had a 1200 HMI that I shot through my same opal frame to key the talent, but a 1k with full blue would probably work. Key slightly from the side to keep any shadows off of the backdrop. Good luck.
 
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