Sekonic Lightmeter L-308DC problem: why is there no 1/48 shutter speed setting???

N

Nicholas Natteau

Veteran
Hello everyone,

I'm using a Panasonic GH2 in 1080p24 movie mode. And I purchased the Sekonic L-308DC light meter.

What I can't understand is why the Sekonic L308DC doesn't have a 1/48 shutter speed setting, the closest it has a 1/45. Is this normal? Is doesn't have a 1/50 shutter speed setting, how come??? If you're shooting at 1/24 fps, is 1/45 shutter speed the closest the Sekonic has? That doesn't make sense. Must be something I'm doing wrong.

I'm in the "HD-Cine" mode for DSLR cameras not "Cine" which would be for video cameras like the AF100.
Or do I need to be in "Cine" mode even when shooting with DSLRs like the GH2, Canon 7D, 60D, etc???

Can anyone who has used the Sekonic L308DC tell me what I'm doing wrong?

I already went through the manual and didn't find an answer to this problem. Thanks very much in advance.
 
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I have the 508Cine and I always use it in Cine mode and I shoot with DSLRs exclusively. In Cine mode, if the shutter angle is 180 (which is the default for 508Cine), the shutter speed works out to 1/48. Check your manual for shutter angle settings and use your meter in Cine mode.

If you want to set your camera to a different shutter speed but at 24fps recording mode, you need to fiddle with the shutter angle settings.. I haven't quite worked that out yet.

Hope this helps,
 
Nicholas Natteau said:
Hello everyone,

I'm using a Panasonic GH2 in 1080p24 movie mode. And I purchased the Sekonic L-308DC light meter.

What I can't understand is why the Sekonic L308DC doesn't have a 1/48 shutter speed setting, the closest it has a 1/45. Is this normal? Is doesn't have a 1/50 shutter speed setting, how come??? If you're shooting at 1/24 fps, is 1/45 shutter speed the closest the Sekonic has? That doesn't make sense. Must be something I'm doing wrong.

I'm in the "HD-Cine" mode for DSLR cameras not "Cine" which would be for video cameras like the AF100.
Or do I need to be in "Cine" mode even when shooting with DSLRs like the GH2, Canon 7D, 60D, etc???

Can anyone who has used the Sekonic L308DC tell me what I'm doing wrong?

I already went through the manual and didn't find an answer to this problem. Thanks very much in advance.
Click to expand...

DSLR's don't typically have a 1/48 shutter speed, and so the usual and customary is to use 1/50, which is on many light meters. One may also shoot at 1/60 depending on the local power frequency.

The biggest problem relative to how most 'lightmeters' are set up, vs. meters targeting cine applications is the readout in footcandles, vs either shutterspeed and f-stop, or EV number.
 
To get the full range of settings the meter is capable of, you first need to set the CS2 f/stop increment to 0.3.

Then, you can get 1/48 by going to Cine mode, setting 24 f/s and 180° shutter.

1/50 is available directly as a shutter speed setting in HD_Cine mode, or you could use Cine mode, 25 f/s and 180°.

The 308DC is pretty capable, but learning its terminology and operating modes is not exactly super-intuitive.

- Greg
 
Hi Nicholas and all,
I was instrumental in designing the L-308DC [I own serial number 100001]. It was repurposed from the L-308S. And you can get 1/48th second in Hd_C. Simply advance the shutter speeds past 8000 to get to a special grouping of shutter speeds. These were added for cameras not yet built. And actually the ones that will be used most. Why do it this way? Most still photographers getting in to recording moving images are not familiar with speeds used by cinematographers. Having a 48 between 30 and 60 might just spook them. So we opted for making the meter readout using the settings available on the camera and then adding the additional set for the moment you just encountered. Keeping the meter as simple as possible is also why we set it up to ONLY read out in shutter speeds and fps in Hd_C. ONLY fps and shutter angles in CINE, and still kept all of the photographic functions including flash measurement in PHOTO.
Sorry about the directions. The project was rather rushed. That said, be sure to register it on www.sekonic.com to get the orange skin for it. I designed that as well. It is free for registering. I had hoped to get it into the box but as I said, the project was on a fast track [6 months from concept to sales]. The skin is only available in the USA at the moment.
I joined this forum to answer this question. I will continue to lurk and be around for any questions you have on Sekonic meters.
Phil Bradon
Product Marketing Manager Sekonic USA
MAC Group
 
Thanks everybody and thank you very much Phil. I love the Sekonic L-308DC. Perhaps someone at Sekonic could post a short video tutorial on the L-308DC. I searched Vimeo and youtube, but most videos only review the L-308DC. I think a short how to video showing how to use it in different situations would be wonderful. I'm shooting green screen at home, and I plan to use the L308DC's clip on Lumidisc for this purpose.

I very much appreciate your detailed explanation. This really helps. Thanks!
 
L-308DC Skin

L-308DC Skin

401-310_L-308DC_front.jpg
Happy to help. If you have not registered you meter to get the skin, I recommend doing it asap. The Sekonic site is working to have a Quick Start video for all the meters. The L-308DC is in the cue. I will see if I can give it a push.
Best,
Phil
 
Phil,

I recently purchased a L358. Mostly I want to be able to do scouting and lighting ratios. Since I have two different video cams which have different sensitivities, the dual metering option seemed worthwhile, as well as the memory. I am also getting into doing some flash photography also. The print documentation is a bit lacking for the L358, could you link to any recommended tutorials.

Nice to have you participate here!

Grant
 
Phil Bradon said:
I joined this forum to answer this question. I will continue to lurk and be around for any questions you have on Sekonic meters.
Phil Bradon
Product Marketing Manager Sekonic USA
MAC Group
Click to expand...

Great to have you on board Phil. Thank you for taking the time to support members supporting your product. Really enjoy using the L758-Cine, made some things so much easier.
 
Hi Grant,
Several places to look at.
http://www.sekonic.com/Products/L-358/Overview.aspx Very basic setup stuff.

Here from Mark Wallace who works with us and is the talent for Adorama TV
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qOxJvwcmADg&feature=relmfu Also basic. Mark has some more advanced videos in this series.

Mark did a Green screen video for Adorama. I recommend cranking the dome down when using a green screen. What Mark was showing will work for the most critical reading for flat stuff, dome down.

Just about everything I can direct you to is for still photography.

I don't know of many videos being produced with motion recording in mind. We are looking into this now but expect it will be some time. I have a few friends in Hollywood that I have appealed to. Might see something from that as well this year.

Got any specific questions or experiences?

Best,
Phil
 
I bought the 308DC to meter my Canon 60D in still and film mode. I also bought it to use with my Canon XH A1 video camera. I seem to be getting false readings? I just did a photo shoot with continuous lights and think the underexposure problem was due to be not setting the metering setting on the 60D. But the readings seem way off on the XH A1. 308 set on HD_Cine. XH A1 settings: 1080 24f / shutter 48. When I try the 308DC incident mode and set the aperture to what the seconic says, it's zebra city and way over exposed.

Also, maybe I can't read the manual right (read it three times) but when I switch the 380 on and press the mode button, it does not switch between HD_C, CINE, or PHOTO modes.

Any help?

Thanks,
Geoffrey
 
I don't know that meter, but as a general rule very few DP's use a meter to actually set exposure in video because the gamma curves of video cameras are all over the map (while film was consistent). Use the meter to judge relative lighting levels and use your zebras or a waveform to set exposure. That said you may be able to find an ISO that seems to match your camera but don't go by what the camera says its ISO is, and don't expect it tp be consistent for bright or dark scenes.
 
gweglarz said:
I bought the 308DC to meter my Canon 60D in still and film mode. I also bought it to use with my Canon XH A1 video camera. I seem to be getting false readings? I just did a photo shoot with continuous lights and think the underexposure problem was due to be not setting the metering setting on the 60D. But the readings seem way off on the XH A1. 308 set on HD_Cine. XH A1 settings: 1080 24f / shutter 48. When I try the 308DC incident mode and set the aperture to what the seconic says, it's zebra city and way over exposed.

Also, maybe I can't read the manual right (read it three times) but when I switch the 380 on and press the mode button, it does not switch between HD_C, CINE, or PHOTO modes.

Any help?

Thanks,
Geoffrey
Click to expand...

I've tested the 308DC with my GH-1 and now D600 and it seems to be 'pretty' close to the in camera metering and my old Minolta spot meter.

There is 'metering' technique involved. I use the 308DC as an incident meter, and use it without the 'integrating' dome. I try to make sure the 'meter sensor' is pointed directly to the light source I'm interested in, which may require shielding the sensor if I'm 'outdoors'...

Here's a test shot from a 18% grey card and 90% white card I did recently for my Nikon D600.

ISO 200 24 fps 1/50 f/4.5, per the 308DC meter reading.

I couldn't quickly figure out how to capture the waveform display from Premiere, but the 'white card' is about 85 IRE and the 'grey card' is about 45 IRE, so close enough for 'out of the box' rendition of the scene.

I'll be testing out these 'fancy' styles at some point...

attachment.php
 
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j1clark@ucsd.edu said:
I've tested the 308DC with my GH-1 and now D600 and it seems to be 'pretty' close to the in camera metering and my old Minolta spot meter.

There is 'metering' technique involved. I use the 308DC as an incident meter, and use it without the 'integrating' dome. I try to make sure the 'meter sensor' is pointed directly to the light source I'm interested in, which may require shielding the sensor if I'm 'outdoors'...

Here's a test shot from a 18% grey card and 90% white card I did recently for my Nikon D600.

ISO 200 24 fps 1/50 f/4.5, per the 308DC meter reading.

I couldn't quickly figure out how to capture the waveform display from Premiere, but the 'white card' is about 85 IRE and the 'grey card' is about 45 IRE, so close enough for 'out of the box' rendition of the scene.

I'll be testing out these 'fancy' styles at some point...

attachment.php
Click to expand...

So, you don't use the dome, but slide that away for 'reflection' mode?
 
gweglarz said:
So, you don't use the dome, but slide that away for 'reflection' mode?
Click to expand...

I use the Sekonic in 'incident' mode, and the 'Lumidisc' accessory which 'narrows' the incident light reading to I believe about 30-40 degrees. I position the meter 'parallel' to the surface where the light is falling. (approximately if it is someone's face...).

I also have a spot meter, for 'reflectance' readings, which I can verify lighting ratios on a person's face, or another region in the shot...

The dome integrates too much for my tastes...

If I wanted to get the lighting ratios without the spot meter, I'd point the L-380DC at the specific light source shield it from 'other sources' as best as possible, then for each main source do a reading to get the ratios.
 
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