Screw on - Movie bulbs

D

DDirector

Veteran
For practicals I just used regular household bulbs before, but I kept on hearing about the screw on movie bulbs, and I should be using them instead.

Were shooting on film using tungsten.

I believe I want them to be a tad yellowish so its not pure white as its going to be an old motel.
 
They typically use something called a photoflood and around 2900K. Then what happens is the studio lighting in combination with the tungsten balanced film would give a very
"white balanced" appearance. Adding in the practicals at 2700 to 2900K range would make the lamps in the room appear a bit more yellowish. That's the classic approach seen in countless films and television programs since color film was invented. This is an example bulb:

http://www.soslightbulbs.com/ushioph140s-142900k75w120vphotofloodlamp.aspx

I don't see why you can't do the same thing though with CFL screw in bulbs in the 2900K range from Home Depot as long as they don't flicker which its not been reported that they do for the most part unless one is defective.
 
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Cool Lights said:
They typically use something called a photoflood and around 2900K. Then what happens is the studio lighting in combination with the tungsten balanced film would give a very
"white balanced" appearance. Adding in the practicals at 2700 to 2900K range would make the lamps in the room appear a bit more yellowish. That's the classic approach seen in countless films and television programs since color film was invented. This is an example bulb:

http://www.soslightbulbs.com/ushioph140s-142900k75w120vphotofloodlamp.aspx
Click to expand...

Awesome.
I was in Henry's (Toronto, Canada) and I was looking at some, but the lowest wattage was 250w.
I need something around 60w max. Its for a household lamp.

Would there be anything I can find locally (St.Catharines area?)
I need this ASAP. - 3 days
 
Man, use the household bulbs. Make sure that you record color reference under each lighting set up that includes a white reference. Even if you are going for a photo-chemical finish, having the color reference and white reference will give the color timer the information to adjust the relatively slight variation between standard incandescents and photoflood bulbs. If you are finishing digitally, then don't sweat it.
 
David G. Smith said:
Man, use the household bulbs. Make sure that you record color reference under each lighting set up that includes a white reference. Even if you are going for a photo-chemical finish, having the color reference and white reference will give the color timer the information to adjust the relatively slight variation between standard incandescents and photoflood bulbs. If you are finishing digitally, then don't sweat it.
Click to expand...

If you are finishing digitally, still use color reference with a white reference. It will be very easy to adjust the shots in post.
 
Not to hijack this thread, but I just got an lowel omni and two lowel totas. They are tungsten. I also got 3 china balls and a couple of reflector lights. I was told that in post it can be "easy" to adjust out the orange coloration given by the tungsten. Seems like this thread confirms that.

My issue is should the China Balls have a light bulb like this one (I found it on a different dvxuser thread) http://www.filmtools.com/nehoba2532qu.html. And that way all the light would be at 3200k. I don't know a lot just trying to keep it simple. Is it better to keep it consistent across all bulbs or try to mix and match?

On a side note, my setup of the lowel omni, totas, china balls and reflectors, I should be able to light a small bedroom, right?

Thanks.
 
You want ALL the light in the shot to be the same temp if possible (unless you want the practicals to look yellowish for some reason).

Those halogens from filmtools are the best buy in lighting IMO. I use them in china balls as well. They last hundreds of hours for less than 12 bucks.
 
You'll definitely be able to light a small bedroom. However, as has been mentioned with the lowel lights... you may not be able to light it *well* depending on the space and the shots. You don't have anything that's very controllable, so you'll certainly get plenty of light all over the bedroom, but it may end up looking pretty ugly in that small of a space with how much spill there's going to be.

If it were me, and I had to light a small bedroom at night, I'd probably only use one or two of those lights at a time.
 
Thanks for the replies. I am hoping just a couple of china balls might do. I have a few strong stands so I might be able to put a diffuser in front of the omni to soften the light. It has barn doors but that might not get me a very tight light. Fortunately, they were a very good price so I can sell them down the road after I have learned a bit. Thanks for the advice!

Gonzo - Do those halogens get real hot? I have a couple of faux sillk china balls (24inch) and then a paper 12inch for tight spots. Just wondering how worried I should be.

Thanks again.
 
prexdealer said:
Thanks for the replies. I am hoping just a couple of china balls might do. I have a few strong stands so I might be able to put a diffuser in front of the omni to soften the light. It has barn doors but that might not get me a very tight light. Fortunately, they were a very good price so I can sell them down the road after I have learned a bit. Thanks for the advice!

Gonzo - Do those halogens get real hot? I have a couple of faux sillk china balls (24inch) and then a paper 12inch for tight spots. Just wondering how worried I should be.

Thanks again.
Click to expand...

They do indeed get hot, though not AS hot as a photo flood in my experience. I have used them in 24" china balls many times (though this is over their recommended wattage) and never had the paper get hot.
 
 
We use the G.E. REVEAL household globes in practicles, occasionally. They have more blue than do standard household globes, yet still maintain the feel of warmth associated with "natural" lighting. The REVEAL is readily available in a wide range of wattages and they are relatively inexpensive. . .and they don't get as hot as do halogens.
 
Paul Hudson said:
...And halogens will last way longer than photo floods.
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Indeed. The best buy in lighting IMO. A balanced, 250W, over 100 hour bulb for $12.00 that fits an E26 household socket.

As for the practicals, I actually usually replace them with clear 15W incandescent. Helps with practical light blow out. The lamp or whatever is there, but not interfering with your other lighting and not a blown out orb of ugliness.
 
gonzo_entertainment said:
Indeed. The best buy in lighting IMO. A balanced, 250W, over 100 hour bulb for $12.00 that fits an E26 household socket.

As for the practicals, I actually usually replace them with clear 15W incandescent. Helps with practical light blow out. The lamp or whatever is there, but not interfering with your other lighting and not a blown out orb of ugliness.
Click to expand...

Where do you find 15W incandescent bulbs?
 
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