Pull focus

indybones

Well-known member
Hi peeps,

I was wondering if some one could help me out with a bit of advice.
This may be a bit of a school boy question so forgive me.
I'm using an HVX-200.

If I am wanting to shoot handheld, and have zoomed in to the max to produce a shallow depth of field, and I have two areas of concentration that I am wanting to pull focus to and from, how can I pull the focus without my hand/arm/action (that is pulling the focus ring) causing a huge amount of camera shake?

The distance between the two areas of concentration is greater than a quarter circle that one wrist movement can make.
Hope that makes sense and was wondering if other peeps had come up with a useful technique or ideas.

Many thanks

Indy
 
This is the great dilemma of cinematography and cameramen have been trying to come up with solutions since the dawn of time. Today, the closest thing we have to a solution and the standard tool found at the side of every single lens in professional film making is the follow focus wheel.

http://www.redrockmicro.com/mff_product.htm

As you can see by using this device you're actually taking your hand off the lens and enabling it to make the focus moves in more fluid less dramatic movements. Using a focus wheel also allows you up attach a speed crank to it.

whip_12.jpg


The speed crank is great when you are operating the camera and pulling focus at the same time. It allows you to remember the different positions and just shift to them without worrying about where your hand is on the ring.

Normally on a production the 1st Assistant Cameraman is in charge of pulling focus and he'll stand next to the camera and operate the ring. When working hand held he will either use a wireless focusing system or a whip:
420681702_e724253f57.jpg


The whip absorbs a lot of the movement and allows the 1st AC to keep his distance from the camera.


A follow focus system is normally not something that you see on prosumer camcorders like the HVX200 since critical focus is generally not a huge deal. (BTW I should mention this system does not work on cameras such as the Canon XH A1 which have electronic focusing systems and not mechanical ones). Buying a follow focus will improve your camera work though and it is a great investment if you are planning on getting a 35mm set up. The follow focus is an integral part of using a lens adapter and if that is something you might go into in the future then getting a follow focus system now would make a lot of sense.
I'm no expert on the different brands of follow focus but I suggest you look in the 35mm adapter forum on this website, lots of good stuff there.
 
Hey Qzar great post...

If I am wanting to shoot handheld, and have zoomed in to the max to produce a shallow depth of field,
Indybones, also if you are shooting handheld at max telephoto, chances of shooting stable is very slim, let alone making a successfull pull. May I suggest you try to create a shallow DOF by relying on a bigger aperture(iris) instead....
 
Hey guys cheers for your replies...

Qzar thanks for your help....very informed and detailed thanks....Lots to think about there...

VGurcu.....yep I usually shoot open or 2.4...
But yup I see what your saying about the added shakiness when zoomed in....

Cheers

Indy
 
now here's the question


do you know WHY zooming in all the way gives you that shallow depth of field look?
 
To get this thread back on track (not another DoF convo)... the HVX can have remote focus control.

Look into electronic controls such as Bebob Foxi. Perhaps you can find a product which allows you to focus without straining to do so.

Best of luck.
 
now here's the question


do you know WHY zooming in all the way gives you that shallow depth of field look?

It doesn't. DOF as a measurement remains exactly the same (that is, the actual background doesn't get any blurrier). But zooming in takes that same background area and magnifies it so that it appears to be out of focus.
 
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