Problem with developing Tri-X 400

D

davide

Well-known member
Hi,

My friend and I just tried to develop our first roll of film: a 35mm roll of Tri-x 400 shot on a Pentax Super ME. We used TMAX developer for 6 minutes agitating it by twisting the rod on the development tank back and forth. We then applied the stop bath, fixer, wash and wetting agent. Upon hanging the film up we realized that about half the exposures were ruined. Some came out fine, others were mostly okay except for big purple splotches in the middle and about 8 exposures in the middle of the roll came out completely purple with just faint outlines of the original exposure. I also noticed that when unravelling the film off the spool in the tank that certain sections were stuck together. it was those sections that came out all purple.

I've had film developed from this camera at a processing lab before and it came out fine, so I think that the problem is in how we developed it not the camera. Any ideas?

thanks,
davide
 
I think the problem may have been that you didn't put the camera in the the TMAX for the 6 minutes, rather than the film...(G)..seriously, did you make sure it wasn't somehow outdated film or developer, like seriously outdated? I developed hundreds of rolls of film in my life, maybe thousands, and never experienced a normal batch of chemistry, properly mixed, leading to that kind of problem. So my guess may be that the film itself or chemistry was the cause.

On another note, it's nice to see that, despite my age, I can be considered a 'junior member' of the forum. Is my decoder ring on the way???
 
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The film was purchased from Adorama about 3 weeks ago. The developer was purchased two days ago at BH photo video. We just tried developing some recently purchased color film and the same effect occured (the developer for that was also purchased on Friday). I believe the problem has to be in either loading the film into the tank or in agitation technique. Any tips on completing those tasks properly?


Edit: So after discussing this on pentaxforums.com I've come to the conclusion that the problem stems from loading the film improperly in the tank. http://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/...oom/82482-problem-developing-tri-x-400-a.html. I'm gonna practice until i can get it right.
 
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What type of tank did you use? If you are using one of the older metal reels/tanks, I'd suggest getting one of the Patterson tanks with the plastic reel. They make loading much simpler if you ask me. Plus you can get one of the deep tanks that will hold 3-4 reels of 35mm or 2 rolls of 120. Plus they have the expanding reel that will hold both 120 and 35mm.

Also, while I agree with the Pentax forum on the cause of your problem, I'd suggest a different agitation method. I usually use the agitation rod on the first agitation, but after that I put the cap on the tank and flip it over 5 times every agitation. The idea is to get developer on the film that doesn't have spent chemistry, and I think this does a much better job than the twist rod. Just a personal thing, and totally not related to the issue you had.

On a side note, I'm proud of you for starting to develop on your own film. This is a task that few new photographers attempt to start up anymore. Keep up the good work, and be sure to post some shots once you scan them.
 
Agreed on the kudos for developing yourself, but I am not a big fan of the plastic reels. I've used both those and the metal reels, and when in practice, the metal just seemed much better. But maybe the plastic reels have advanced since all those years ago when I was bulk loading tri-X.

One question, why are you using TMAX developer for Tri-X? Have they changed the formulation over the years to make this work? When I worked at the paper (and when I did my own) I used microdol. Especially if I was pushing the film to 800 or beyond. The school used HC-110 or whatever and I hated that stuff.
 
Both developers will work with both films. Kodak is pretty good about that. Actually, D-76, T-MAX, XTOL, and HC-110 A or B will all develop all 3 speeds of T-MAX, Plus-X, and both speeds of Tri-X. Microdol-X will do all but T-MAX-3200.

I personally use HC-110. Great for pushing ISO400 2 stops.
 
I never had much luck with it (HC-110) for pushing, but that's been 20 years ago. We used nothing but Microdol at the newspaper when we were shooting Tri-X and pushing 2 stops to get something printable from the crappy field lights at the football games. T-Max certainly did a better job when it came out.

Is Plus-X still available? I used to LOVE that film.
 
PerroneFord said:
Is Plus-X still available? I used to LOVE that film.
Click to expand...

Not that I know of, but I have some way expired rolls in my fridge that I have been dying to shoot. I'll post the results if I don't muck them up. :)

Edit: Just looked on their site and it appears it still is, although none of my local stores carry it. I also found a $5 rebate when you buy a propack. :)
 
Thanks for the tips guys. I'm eager to try to get it right with my next roll. I'll check out the other developers you mentioned. Do different developers yield different contrasts and densities in the prints?
 
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