Poor person's HMI

shawneous said:
Shawneous5000, I love it! :-)

The uncorrected shot definitely looks greenish, at least on my computer. What would it look like with flesh tones?

How much light would you estimate it puts out?

Just for kicks you should try putting an Alzo bulb in there, with their ballast too. Just get a Mogul-to-Edison adapter (off the shelf) and it'd be easy.
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Should be putting out at least 3 times normal and maybe as much as 4 for a magnetic ballast with conservative estimating. So lets say 30 to 40 lumens per watt that would be between 30 and 40,000 lumens. Probably very low CRI from the looks of it. I've never seen any result quite that green before--even the cheapest fluorescent I've ever tried.
 
Richard, it seems you favor the kit partial-solution route of lights but if you made a complete solution with a 90cri 5600k electronic dimmable HID light then I think you'd have a supreme winner. Actually, you could still do the kit thing if you supplied a mogul bulb in those specs with an inline ballast. There are a ton of mogul based softbox solutions already on the market. If all of those people could buy your mogul bulb and ballast solution in 1k or 500w variations, dang that'd be the light kit to have. If you could get that in at a reasonable price I'd buy a couple of them! And you know Red #114 would like it :-)
 
just a suggestion, but you should check out rostronics.com if your looking for affordable high powered pro film lighting. you can get all the matching accessories like softboxes and barndoors for thier big lights as well. although unlike hmis ...they are 3200k, but you could likely find a 5600 or close to it bulb somewhere with some searching. anyway, i just figured id mention these guys because the stuff works great. ive got a few lights from them and i havent had a single problem with them in a few years now.
 
Hey shawneous,
it's WAY brighter than the Alzo 150W. Way brighter.

But listen y'all, this was more a mechanical test than a test for qualitative or quantitative luminosity.
I'll hold off in posting more stills, as some things need to be corrected first (read first post). Once they're resolved, I'll post more stills.
Shawneous posted an idea about putting an HID bulb in a Fresnel light (to get a high output "daylight" color temperature light fixture that's similar to HMI but not as expensive) ; that's exactly what we did to see if it works, and see what happens. Mechanically, it's EASY to achieve, but there's still problems, and it's unacceptable as it is right now. Yes, that's green, but it's not finished yet. Look at this an early ALPHA version! :) Patience, patience; with some corrections, this will be SWEET and put out a ton of light.
A work in progress, that's all...
 
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Neil Rowe said:
...although unlike hmis ...they are 3200k, but you could likely find a 5600 or close to it bulb somewhere with some searching..
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:beer:
Neil, that's EXACTLY what this whole thread IS about. You're just teasing, right?
:)
 
shawneous said:
Richard, it seems you favor the kit partial-solution route of lights but if you made a complete solution with a 90cri 5600k electronic dimmable HID light then I think you'd have a supreme winner. Actually, you could still do the kit thing if you supplied a mogul bulb in those specs with an inline ballast. There are a ton of mogul based softbox solutions already on the market. If all of those people could buy your mogul bulb and ballast solution in 1k or 500w variations, dang that'd be the light kit to have. If you could get that in at a reasonable price I'd buy a couple of them! And you know Red #114 would like it :-)
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Actually I'm planning on a kit and a ready-to-go fresnel. Not totally decided about what wattage(s) to offer yet though. 1K, 400w and perhaps even a 150w was what I was thinking so far.

The kit should even go with my mogul fixture too--just as it is now.
 
Just out of curiosity, any idea what the CRI of the tungsten bulbs in my Lowel Tota or Omni lights are?
 
Any incandescent would theoretically have a CRI of 100, although I'd take a few points off for this and that.
It should be between 96 and 100 I'd say. Probably most are around 98, not sure.
 
Incandescents are 100 or thereabouts because they are closer to the theoretical "black body" talked about in measuring color temperature. Here's an article on Color temp and CRI for anyone interested:

http://www.coollights.biz/wordpress/archives/13

In it, I talk about how you measure CRI also as you don't see this kind of equipment very often.
 
miracom said:
Incandescents are 100 or thereabouts...
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You seem to have repeated what I just wrote. :beer:
But just to clarify, the lights mentioned by tomk358 use tungsten halogen bulbs AFAIK, which have a slightly lower CRI like I mentioned. They'd be between 96 and 98 is my guess.

But no worries, tomk358, your Lowel lights are good lights, with VERY HIGH CRI.
 
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