Polarizers: Fact & Fiction

strangways

Well-known member
Recently, I discovered a need for a polarizing filter on my DVX100A: filming people inside a car, through the front windshield, I needed a polarizer to cut out the reflections and clearly see inside.

I decided to search these wonderful forums to see what experience people had with polarizers, and I came across a lot of terrible misinformation. The general impression I got was that a number of people recommend circular polarizers over linear polarizers. Some even suggested that you NEED a circular. This is also what dealers are telling people - and why a friend of mine paid over $100 for a circular polarizer to use with his 100A.

It's time someone set the record straight.

"You need a circular polarizer with the DVX100(A), or it's at least better than a linear polarizer."

FICTION!

First of all, let me clarify a common misconception about polarizers: both are physically circular filters that screw into you lenses and then can be freely rotated to change the angle of polarization, and thus the effect of removing reflections or deepening the colour of a blue sky.

Both do the exact same thing to light entering them. To try and simplify, light "vibrates" in all directions when it leaves a light source, whether aritificial or natural. When it is reflected by most surfaces (other than metal) it beomes polarized, only vibrating in one direction. Reflected light from a horizontal surface is horizontally polarized, and vice-versa for vertical surfaces.

A polarizer is simply a screen, it only transmits light polarized in one direction, and rotating the polarizer alters that direction. So, if you have a reflection from a horizontal surface, and you rotate the polarizer until it ony allows vertically polarized light to pass, it effectively blocks the reflected light, and therefore the image of the reflection.

The difference between the two types of polarizers is in how light leaves the filter. A linear polarizer simply lets the light, now polarized in one direction only, continue on its way. A circular polarizer uses a "quarter-wave retarder" to essentially un-polarize the light, and get it vibrating in all directions again... still minus the reflection, of course.

The reason for this is that some Single-Lens Reflex still photography cameras use polarization in their autofocus and/or exposure systems. Light vibrating in a specific direction passes through the mirror reflecting light up the viewfinder, and hits a secondary mirror sending it down to a metering and/or autofocus sensor system. It's polarizing light.

The problem is that if your metering/AF system takes the vertically polarized light, and your polarizing filter is only letting through horizontally polarized light, the sensors receive no light at all, rendering them useless.

With a circular polarizer converting the light that is polarized in only one direction back into light polarized in all directions, the secondary mirror is able to do its job, and has light it can direct to the sensors.

I hope you followed along with all of that. But here's the catch:

FACT: that doesn't matter one bit to the DVX100(A)!

It does not have anything in its optical system that is affected by the polarization of light.

The autofocus and exposure systems are not separate sensors, they simply use the data from the CCDs. Even before that, the prism that separates the light into the primary colours and redirects them to the three CCDs isn't affected either, because the prism works with the wavelengths (or colours, if you prefer) of the light, and not the direction it's polarized in.

So, here's the definitive short list:

FACTS: Linear vs. Circular polarizers on the DVX100(A)

1) Autofocus works the same with either. So does manual.
2) Autoexposure works the same with either. So does manual.
3) The prism splitting light to the three CCDs works the same with either.
4) Anything else you can care to think of works the same with either.

The ONLY difference, and it's a BIG one:
5) Linear polarizers are cheaper than circular polarizers.

AND, believe it or not:
Linear polarizers are MORE effective than circular polarizers - they are better at blocking more of the light polarized in the direction you are trying to cut out. ...for reasons I'm too tired to get into now. Now, it's not a big difference, in fact you'd rarely notice it, but for all of the fiction that circular polarizers are better/more effective, the fact is that the opposite is true.

Now, believing as I do that practice will always win out over theory, I put it to the test. I visited a local photography store I have dealt with on a very regular basis, and was able to borrow two polarizers. A $153 B+W (Schneider) Circular Polarizer (top of the line Kasemann type) and a used Hoya Linear Polarizer worth... wait for it... $35.

Now, if I were putting the linear polarizer on a modern Single-Lens Reflex camera, it would stop the autofocus from functioning in most cases. In fact, it would also stop the metering system on my 1980's Olympus SLR cameras from working.

BUT, on the DVX100(A), there was absolutely NO difference. Everything on the camera functioned perfectly with the linear polarizer, just as it did with the circular.

I compared the quality of the image, looking at the effect of polarization, as well as the clarity and sharpness and lack of flare with the image in general, showed no discernible difference between the two.

So, why spend over FIVE TIMES MORE on the circular polarizer? Probably because the safe bet has seemed to be splurging on the circular just in case. Misinformation, uncertainty, and doubt.

Put it all to rest now. If you're looking to buy a polarizer, get a linear. Save your money. In fact, try and find a clean, scratch-free used one. Check a photography store. Not a giant electronics retail chain, but a local, independent store that carries used equipment.

I know this has been a long post, and I hope I haven't come across like a jerk. I'm not trying to shout out loud that I'm right; the simple fact is that I hoped to separate the fact from the fiction fully and clearly so all doubts could be laid to rest. I don't think my friend, or anyone on this board, ought to be paying more than they need to for an incredibly useful piece of kit. That's all there is to it.

Now, let's all get off our butts and go shoot something! :)
 
Last edited:
Well, the conclusion you come to is reletively correct, though a bit convoluded.

First of all, B+W filters are FAR more expensive than Hoya. For that to be a propper comparison, you would have to compare 2 B+W's or 2 Hoyas.

Secondly, this applies to people who are not using matteboxes. Once you start dealing with 4x4 (or any size filter for that matter) the prices go up astronomically, and a linear will be just about the same as a circular.

I myself, am a fan of Schneider's TruPol.
 
TC, you're right about it being convoluted! I wish I had my own personal editorial staff. :)

Also, you are certainly correct about B+W filters being more expensive than Hoya. My experience was certainly extreme, but circulars are indeed more expensive within the same brand.

So to put it in a bit more of a realistic perspective, the same brand, the same 72mm, "level" of filter (that is, quality of coatings) and model (not slim or wide) linear vs. circular as priced at B&H:

B+W $60.50 vs. $99.50
Hoya $34.50 vs. $64.50
Tiffen $37.40 vs. $67.50

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=productlist&A=details&Q=&sku=11286&is=REG
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=productlist&A=details&Q=&sku=9759&is=REG
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=productlist&A=details&Q=&sku=23445&is=REG
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=productlist&A=details&Q=&sku=22707&is=REG
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=productlist&A=details&Q=&sku=58822&is=REG
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=productlist&A=details&Q=&sku=56636&is=REG

From my experience in filters for still photography (and it's just my own humble opinion) B+W makes amazing filters (esp. the MRC). They use great quality German Schott optical glass, and for coloured filters they add raw elements to the glass while it's in a molten state. Their brass mounts are superb, too.

Hoya is my second choice. Much lower prices, and still very good filters. I like the HMC filters, but even the regular ones are good for seldom-used filters. They also add elements at the molten glass stage, although it's not as good an optical glass to begin with as B+W. Also, their aluminum mounts are certainly better than plastic.

Tiffen strikes a sour note with me. They advertise that if a Hollywood cinematographer sticks a Tiffen filter in front of his $500,000 lens on a multi-million dollar movie, you should stick a Tiffen in front of your camera. The trick is, Tiffen's high end filters are great, but the consumer stuff is altogether different. They use green glass - the stuff used in your windows at home. You can take a Tiffen apart and, looking at the edge, it is certainly tinted green, hence the common name. It's not "optical grade" glass. Further, every filter they make uses the exact same glass, they just laminate a Kodak Wratten gel (which Tiffen also distributes) in between two pieces of that green glass.
While you may dismiss it as propoganda from a competitor, this page from Hoya is talking about Tiffen in "How another Large Manufacturer makes Filters" and, from having taken apart and inspecting a number of Tiffen filters, they're exactly right.
http://www.thkphoto.com/products/hoya/hoya-02.html
Photographers have known about Tiffen's methods (and avoided them because of it) for years, and the really interesting thing is that Tiffen has now come up with a patented name to make their lamination process seem like it's actually a good thing.

Of course, all of the above applies solely to screw-in filters, not 4x4 or other square filters for matte boxes. I don't have much experience in that area, certainly not as much as TC, so thanks for your perspective on it. I come from a mostly photographic background, as both a photographer and in retail sales at a higher-end photography shop. I've done a little 16mm work years ago, but the DVX100A is my first jump back into the world of moving pictures in about 5 years.

...I'd hate to even ask how much a 4x4 polarizer would cost.

So, seeing as this is getting long and convoluted again, I'd better shut up now, because no personal editorial staff has instantly appeared over my shoulder. Ah well!

P.S. thisiswells, unfortunately I don't have firewire on my PC, so I can't provide any stills at the moment. A friend of mine has a Mac G5, so when he gets back from vacation I'll try and bug him to capture some stills.
 
strangways said:
...I'd hate to even ask how much a 4x4 polarizer would cost.
Not as much as you'd think. Under $200 depending on where you buy from.
...What you save on a threaded ring is made up in the price of re-usable filter trays...
 
For a Schneider True-Pol 4x4 polarizer... They "were" about $200.00. I just picked one up from Rush at EVS. If you are looking for one, buy it now if there are any left. Rush said that nearly every manufacturer is in the process of raising their prices significantly, so get 'em while you can, once the existing stock is cleared out get ready to pay up!
 
That is true, most are up 10-20% already, although we still have the old prices until our old stock is depleted. Then the new prices go up on th web. B+W is already up 10% since we sell tons, we never have stock left.
 
Hey strangways!

Thanks for the info, I've always wondered about this issue but I'll worry no more!!
 
How many different versions of the Schneider true-pol series are there? It appears that Schneider has the "regular" and the "one-stop", any idea how many stops are lost when using the regular?


Rush, do you guys carry both?

I see Adorama and Filmtools carries both the regular and one-stop for $165/$236 & $153/$218 respectively.
 
on that note, is there only Schneider's 'True-Pol' and Tiffen's 'Ultra-Pol', and does anyone have any knowledge of the quality or comparisons between the two?
 
Shneider Pola Filters

Shneider Pola Filters

FYI Schneider Polas offered;

True Pol (1 2/3 stops)
Circular True Pol (1 2/3 stops)
One Stop Pol (1 stop)

There is a differance between polas. Take two of ours and rotate them while looking thru, the image will black-out. Try that with our competition.
And they use the "green" soda lime glass in most of, if not all, of their filters.

Ken Robings
Engineer, Schneider Optics
 
Man I love this site. the information is so useful. My wife just doesn't understand why I'm so addicted to it.
Where else can you get advice from trusted retailers (EVS), panasonic Reps (Jan), I occasionally see they folks from DVRack and Century Optics cruising around here and now we've got an engineer from Schneider Optics! SWEET.
Now we need to figure out the total years of experience of say the top 50 posters here to let the newbs know just how lucky they are when the stumble across this site as I did a few months ago.
 
Ken_Robings said:
FYI Schneider Polas offered;

True Pol (1 2/3 stops)
Circular True Pol (1 2/3 stops)
One Stop Pol (1 stop)

There is a differance between polas. Take two of ours and rotate them while looking thru, the image will black-out. Try that with our competition.
And they use the "green" soda lime glass in most of, if not all, of their filters.

Ken Robings
Engineer, Schneider Optics


Ken, greatly appreciated follow-up information and clarification!

I'd read elsewhere that that some of your competitors use the "green" soda lime glass, and although I could make assumptions about what that means perhaps in regards to quality of light/optics, what are the actual (see: scientific) technical pros and cons in regards to using a "green" glass? Do any of the other manufacturers ever defend that decision in print? Also, the 'rotating to black' test, what does that tell me about the quality of a product?

*btw, on Monday I purchased a Schneider True Pol (1 2/3 stops), looking forward to running some tests!
 
The cool thing about good pola's is when you hold two of them up to light and at opposing 90-degree angles, they cancel out all light. What you see is black. It's cool. It's a simple way to demonstrate the effectiveness of one brand over another.

The lesser versions aren't powerful enough to pass that kind of test.

-b
 
I have a Kenlock circular polarizer and (as posted in a seperate thread) have trouble with some severe tinting under certain, bright lighting conditions at the beach.

One forum member suggested that the electronics inside the DVX100 (not the DVX100a) may have some trouble with circular poalrizers and I should give a linear polarizer a try.

Living in Mainland China, I would probably have to carve a filter out of the bottom of a glass bottle, trying/buying is out of the question.

I have a 77mm MRC B+W circl polarizer and can not see any difference with my problem (nor in picture quality or effectiveness for that matter). Anyone experiencing this weird tinting? Any other suggestions/solutions?

BTW, you can always use a LCD monitor and rotate the filter in front of it as LCDs all have polarizers built in. The "turning black" effect looks equal for both Kenlock and B+W.
 
Back
Top