PLYWOOD SKATER Finished

I have reports that mine is about in the same state as coffee's right now. Pieces cut. I should get them in a few days.
 
Having my pieces cut by a pro tomorrow afternoon, anyone ever find out what size wheels to use or does it matter?
 
I too would be interested in the wheels people have chosen as well as the assembly hardware. I'm also going to do a bold effin move and try to build it out of plastic.. only problem is that one inch plastic is expensive so I might have to go with 3/4 inch and figure some spacing out.

good luck all
 
I bought 70mm wheels from sports authority for $16.... They're small and perfect size to fit the prints that Ted provided for us.


Hey Justyn, where did you buy your pastic from?
 
Coffee,

Here's the beauty, I threw the guy 20 bucks and he gave it to us. We found a glass and plastic place here in town and they have so much scap as the 3/4 inch plastic comes in huge sheets of 4x8. I'd see what you have in town. call around.. tell them youa re looking for scaps and you'll be set. I'll try and find the name of the place, it's been a while. For the 20 bucks I probably got 20 square feet of plastic.. and it's optically clear good stuff. Your other option is Home Depot but they would probably on have half inch at the most and it's a bit pricey.


J
 
Guys,

Here's my "final touches" to the plywood skater.
The ref mark is for use with the angle calculator.
For instantly setting the wheels for a pan around the camera axis, like its mounted on a tripod,
I placed red arrow markings on the wheel mount, similar to the "O" mark on the original.
For the brake, I welded a nut on a small steel plate, screwed on the bolt and glued a rubber pad on the end.
I fashioned a flat circular holder onto the bolt head, for easy twisting, by placing a washer ontop of the bolthead and building it up with metal epoxy.
I'm pretty sure most of you can find a better braking device, I just kept mine simple. :-)

final%20touches.jpg
 
Justyn,

The reference mark. (refer to updated diagram I sent you) is your 0.0 distance and 0.0 offset. This point or mark is where you would start your measurement, whether in inches or centemeters, to your pivot point. Straight forward, the distance is entered as positive on the angle calculator. Straight to the rear, is entered as negative.
Offset values is entered when your pivot point is to the sides, thus a pivot point towards your left is entered as negative value in the angle calculator and to the right, positive value is entered.

The angle calculator thus will give you the proper angle settings for your A, B & C wheels.
 
just an update..... I'm prepping for a short for the 28th of Jan so the dolly is now on hold... :embarasse

I'll keep you guys posted when I start it up again next month.
 
man, i need to make a visit to my local woodshop class, slap the plans down, give them the link to this forum, and say $200 to the person who finishes first!

(because i suck at building stuff)
 
When this one's done, I am planning on talking to him to see if he wants to make more. I'll ask how much time and energy it took and if he's be interested in making some to sell.
 
Ted,

Thanks for the info. Makes sense. I'm getting together with my friend to build one next week. I do think it would be good for somesone to step up. Mark's step-dad might be just the right person. If he keeps it indi friendly/pocketbook friendly.. and of the highest precision.. then he should be able to cover some expenses. the more people working on stuff for this biz. The less likely we are to get ripped off.

I think something of a thank you has to go out again to Ted. I do also think his skater looks great. His DOF adapter looks great and so does his light. When will your stuff be for sale?


Also, I'll let everyone know how the plastic works out.

J


J
 
I'm currently looking into the costs and feasibility of making them from anodized, maybe powder coated aluminum. My brother in law (an expert craftsman) works in a fabricating shop and is rather keen to take on the project.

So far the designs are very similar to most seen in this forum but with a few evolving changes to accommodate the tighter tolerances (better machining) that aluminum will afford. They'll be very strong/durable.

Not exactly looking to "go into business" with this idea but by his own admission - the unit costs should get cheaper the more he makes once the jigs are set up.

I'll post details as they become available.



dmc
 
All

I recieved emails, regarding the hieght measurements of the plywood and that some found it hard to secure "1 inch ply". Please take note that in some places, hardware terms are not that accurate. A "one inch ply" measured is actually, 3/4 of an inch. I checked last this morning the ACTUAL measurements and they are as follows.

1 inch is actually 3/4 of an inch
1/2 is actually 6/16 of an inch
3/16 is 3/16

Please note that these height measurements have a high tolerance in terms of the functionality of the skater and would not have affected the performance. What is critical are the horizontal measurements, or the accuracy of your implementation of the design when viewed from the top.
And another critical thing which I will state again is the perpendiculaity of the axle holes for the wheels to prevent a wobble & inaccuracy in angle calculation.

Thanks those who pointed this out to me.

More power to you guys and its really a joy to see what some of you have accomplished. I hope this would be of great use to you all and caused financial savings.

Good luck and God bless you all in your endeavors,

Ted
 
Stupid question

Stupid question

Please excuse this stupid question, but I'm still very new to carpentry/woodworking. I was wondering how you get the pattern from the printout onto the wood itself. Do you just cut it out and then trace around it like a pattern? If so, how do you get the markings in the middle of the pattern to line up? Thanks a lot.
 
ndkid5

Use carbon paper(from the good ol days of the typewriter) to trace the pattern onto the wood.
Tip, tape tha pattern so it won't move around.
 
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