Outdoor Lighting Input

B

Bassman2003

Veteran
Hello,
I have an upcoming shoot that will take place outdoors on a golf course. This is with a single subject but will be a mix of closeup and full body shots. I do not think the course will have much tree cover so we will be out in the sun.

I have been think about diffusing the light on the subject but the mix of shots (especially the full body shots) is making the setup complex. Since we will be moving around and this has a limited budget, HMI's will not be in the picture.

So any ideas about the best way to approach this shoot?

It seems I have these choices:

Use a overhead scrim with reflectors for rim or fill light. I think the shadows will be in the shot on the full body views but the closeups will look great.

Try to keep the sun as a rim light and bounce key on the subject. This looks fine but the club and ball area will be in the shadow cast area. Would reflector bounce make up for that in a smooth looking way?

Shoot with the sun into the subject at 45 deg but limit the time of day for shooting. This gives good emphasis on the club and ball area but basically tears the subject apart with harsh light.

It will probably end up being a mix of all three but I would like your input if you would be so kind to get some different opinions.
Thanks
 
As a "one man band" I usually favor option #2 but I am concerned about having a shadow falling in front of the subject all of the time when I go to a full body shot.

Am I correct in thinking any kind of manageable overhead diffusion is going to cast shadows on the wider shots?
 
Well, sure, any diffusion will cast a shadow. If you want wider shots, you need bigger diffusion.

But when I say it depends on what you want the image to look like, I wasn't really asking about the practicality of setting up the equipment, it was about what you actually want the shot to look like. The two methods won't produce the same kind of look, and one or the other may serve your story better.

(Oh, a note -- scrims don't diffuse, but I don't think you actually meant a scrim, right? :) )
 
Yes, I meant to type silk.

After researching a bit I can rent a Joker 400/200 kit for $275 so I might go this route if I can find a silent portable generator. Any ideas on a generator? The rental place has a Honda EU 2000 generator which is rated for 13 amps which seems like enough. Any experience with its noise output?
 
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That's a popular one, and crews around here use them all the time, but no generator is truly silent. If you can hide it behind a truck or some other barrier which will help bounce the noise away, you'll be better off.

13 amps may be enough, but maybe not. I wouldn't count on any more than 1300 watts total sustained, and that's top-end. A genny isn't as solid and reliable as house power. I mean, it doesn't mean you can't try more and that it absolutely can't do it, but when planning for the shoot, I wouldn't count on it.
 
How do you know in advance that it will be a sunny day without clouds ? Can you schedule the shoot for a somewhat overcast day so there will be even, shadowless lighting which will totally eliminate fill/scrims/reflectors/generators and all ?
Unless it is a golf tournament that will put you at the mercy of the weather.
 
We are limited to Mondays when the course is closed. Down here in Texas what we have the most is clear sunny days so I just plan around those. I can check the weather coming up to the shoot and steer but I would guess it will probably be sunny.

The Joker 400 is supposed to draw 5.5 amps so with the 200 that is a total of 8-9 amps. I will ask the rental shop for their experiences.
 
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Thanks for your input. I will call the rental shop tomorrow. They also have a Joker 800 with softbox (if light is low enough) which might be the best solution if it can be run by the Honda EU2000i generator. This along with reflectors and the right time of day seems like the best approach. I will scout the location to find any shade beforehand as well.
 
A 1200 par would really be best if you can get it. Even the new M18 is supposed to be able to run off of a 20amp circuit, so it should be fine on a 20amp genny. Really, I'd just get the biggest par lamp you can find/afford and shoot that through diffusion to fill in the actors. Just try and place the sun as your backlight as much as you can and you should be good.
 
RyanT said:
… the new M18 is supposed to be able to run off of a 20amp circuit, so it should be fine on a 20amp genny.
Click to expand...

The new Arri 1800w M18 “Baby Max” lens-less par will not run reliably on a Honda EU2000is because it doesn’t have a true 20A Circuit. Its’ 20A Edison U-Ground receptacles are on a circuit fused at 16.7 Amps and the generator is only rated for 13.3A continuous load. The problem is that 1800W Baby Max draws 19.5A at 120V.

Even if you were to use a generator, like the Honda EU6500is, that has 20A Edison U-Ground receptacles on 20A circuits, it has been my experience that they do not run reliably. The problem is that the draw of the 1800W Baby Max – 19.5A at 120V – is just too close to the operating threshold of the circuit for comfort. If there is any line loss from a long cable run, or increased resistance from an overheated plug end, the draw of the ballast climbs over 20 Amps and trips the breaker. Since they are only rated for 15 Amps, more often than not the problem is that one of the stinger plug-ends overheats. The increased resistance that results from the heat causes the voltage to the ballast to drop and so it has to draw more power to maintain the 1800W load. At 110V it will draw 20.5 Amps.

To the problem of line loss and overheating plug ends, you have the added problem that as you add load to generators, their output voltage drops. It is not uncommon for a generator to drop 10-15 volts under full load. The 1800W ballast that drew 19.5 Amps at 115 Volts will draw 21.4 Amps at 105 Volts. In my experience the power drawn by the 1800W Baby Max is just too near the operating threshold of a 20A circuit for it to operate reliably plugged into a U-Ground Edison Outlet.

I have found that the only reliable way to power a 1800W Baby Max on portable gas generators is from a 240V circuit through a 240v-to-120v step down transformer. A transformer will convert the 240V output into a single large 120V circuit that is more than capable of powering the 19.5A load of a 1800W Baby Max. And, if you outfit the transformer like ours, with a 60A Bates receptacle, it will enable you to use a film style distro system that will allow you to move the generator off set (where it won’t be heard), minimize line loss over a long cable run, and provide plug-in pockets conveniently close to the ballasts.

HD_PP_Demo_Transformer-Distro.jpg

A Distro System consisting of a 60A Full Power Transformer/Distro, 2-60A GPC (Bates) Splitters, 2-60A Woodhead Box distributes power from a modified Honda EU6500is. Even though the generator is 100' away to reduce noise, plug-in points remain conveniently close to set.​

To record sync sound without picking up any generator noise, all you need to do is add 200' of heavy gauge 250V twist-lock extension cable between the generator and the transformer. This is usually enough cable to place the generator around the corner of a building, or to run it out of a van or truck - which is usually all the additional blimping you need with the Honda EU generators. By using a single heavy-gauge feeder cable, you eliminate multiple long cable runs to the generator and the appreciable voltage drop you would have using standard electrical cords. Unlike 15 Amp U-Ground Edison plugs, the 30A/250V twist-lock plug ends won’t overheat and so won’t add resistance and won’t cause additional voltage drop that will cause the ballast to draw more power and trip the breaker.


HD_PP_Demo_Distro.jpg

60A GPC (Bates) Splitters and Woodhead Box.​

To assure full line level (120V) on set, use a "boost transformer" like ours that is designed to compensate for the slight line loss you will inevitably have over an extended cable run. If you were plug it directly into the generator and feed the supply side (primary) of the transformer 240 volts, a "boost transformer" will give you 127 volts on the secondary side where you plug in your lights. This slight boost enables you to run 200’ or more of cable to get the generator further from set where you won't hear it, yet assure that the supply voltage on set does not drop below 120V and cause the 1800W ballast to draw more power and trip its’ 20A breaker. If the transformer is like ours and equipped with a 60A Bates you can use standard film distribution equipment like 60A Siamese, 60A Whips, and 60A Snack Boxes to run power to the light (breaking out to 20A Edison pockets next to the ballast), rather than having to run multiple stingers from the ballast back to the generator.

HD_PP_Demo_P2L.jpg

60A Woodhead Box running Power-to-Light PFC 800W ballast (left) and PFC 1200W ballast (right.)​

If the generator is one of our modified Honda EU6500is generators, a transformer will convert the enhanced 7500W output of the generator into a single 60A/120V circuit that is capable of powering up to three 1800W Baby Maxs. And where the 1800W Baby Max has an output comparable to a 4k, this is probably all the light you will need if you put your talent under a silk.

For more detailed information on using transformers with portable generators I would suggest you read an article I wrote on the use of portable generators in motion picture production. Harry Box, author of “The Set Lighting Technician’s Handbook” has cited my article in the just released Fourth Edition of the handbook. In addition, he has established a link to it from the companion website for the Fourth Edition of the Handbook, called “Box Book Extras.”

BoxBookForumLinkGenSetMed.jpg

If you haven't yet read the article, or looked at it in a while, it is worth reading. I have greatly expanded it to be the definitive resource on portable power generation for motion picture production. Of the article Harry Box states:

"Great work!... this is the kind of thing I think very few technician's ever get to see, and as a result many people have absolutely no idea why things stop working."

"Following the prescriptions contained in this article enables the operation of bigger lights, or more smaller lights, on portable generators than has ever been possible before."​

The “Box Book Extras,” site is also worth checking out because it includes other source material used for the handbook, articles by Harry Box published in other periodicals, related websites, a list of production oriented i-phone apps, as well as more in depth discussion of topics touched upon in the handbook. You can log onto the Box Book Extras site at http://booksite.focalpress.com/box/setlighting/ with our pass-code "setlighting." Use this link for my news letter article on the use of portable gas generators in motion picture production.

Guy Holt, Gaffer, SceenLight & Grip, Lighting and Grip Rental in Boston.
 
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