Not sure which to buy

[DBoz699]

I'm buying some chinaballs, but i've got a few questions maybe someone from experience can help me out with.

First question. What should I use to hold the Chinaballs with? Is the C-Stand the best option? I'm buying two 30" lanterns so Lanternlock is out of the question.


Second question. Should I buy a tungsten balanced halogen bulb or a fluorescent thats balanced close to daylight?
The halogen I believe is 250w and the fluorescent is 85w but outputs 340w.

Fluorescent: http://www.filmtools.com/eiko-85-wat...cent-lamp.html

Halogen: http://www.filmtools.com/nehoba2532qu.html

I'm just worried about someone screwing around with the halogen bulb while its still hot and have it screw up my chinaball which is why i was looking at the fluorescent.

this is my entire package.


Chinaball: http://www.filmtools.com/30whitpapchi.html
Socket: http://www.filmtools.com/chinlansocas.html

Not sure what bulb to get though. I'll probably be shooting alot of indoor scenes with these but I like the nice white light.

 

[Ryan Patrick O'Hara]

First of all, china balls are very light weight and wonderful lights. You can hang them with just about anything you want and it will always change from situation to situation. I usually boom the china-ball over head with a series of gobo arms clamped together, and a TON of sandbags on the stand. I've seen people use furniture clamps, tape, and one time even staple gun. The key points to remember are safety and functionality of the rig. If it works and does not endanger the crew or cast, then you found your solution.

To answer your question regarding tungsten vs fluorescent:
This to, depends on the situation. Are you shooting daylight or tungsten film? Are you white balanced for daylight or tungsten on your video camera?
The needs of color temperature will change depending on your scene and lighting conditions. If you want to be prepared for any situation, buy both. Even then, buy extras!

Regarding your heat concern:
I've used those 250watt Tungsten bulbs dozens of times and believe me, they get smoking hot!! With the proper safety precautions (when building the rig), and with the proper awareness on set, I was able to ensure that nothing would go wrong. You should not have to worry about people screwing around with the bulbs... if so, you need a more aware and professional crew. If you would like an explanation of how I built and used my 1k (4-250watt light) china ball, let me know and I would be glad to give pointers.

I'm sorry to tell you that there is not just one good way to hang a china ball, and that there are many situations which may call for either type of bulb depending on the conditions. Film making is new and exciting every time. No set is the same, and the equipment is used in different configurations. That's what I like most about it!


EDIT: If you can ONLY afford just one type of bulb... and ONLY one... I would have to recommend the daylight balanced fluorescent. This is only because they are more cool to the touch, which is not to benefit the idiots on set, but to allow the use of adding gels. As you know, it is possible to add color correction gels and get the color temperature to shift. CTO is Color Temperature Orange which will turn a Daylight balanced light into a tungsten. CTB is Color Temperature Blue which will turn a Tungsten light into daylight. If you didn't know, CTO will only reduce the light intensity by 2/3rds a stop. CTB will drop the light intensity by 2 whole stops!!! As you see, you would benefit to use the daylight bulbs because adding a CTO gel (when having to shoot in tungsten light) will not effect your light intensity as much as vice versa. If you had tungsten bulbs and had to shoot in daylight, you would have to add CTB around a very hot bulb/china ball and your light intensity would be demolished by 2 stops.

I still would suggest buying both types, but if only one had to be chosen, the daylight fluorescent has my vote.

Best,
-rpo