Nikon User Thread

nikon 50mm 1.2 on my 40d. i absolutely love this lens..but crop sensor leaves me wanting more.
3487794844_fff2e9fb6e_b.jpg

3486978099_b5bd84221f_b.jpg

3487794866_180bb320c7_b.jpg
 
egproductions said:
Sorry dougspice, I don't mean to negate what you are saying but I need to clarify a few things:

Its true you can really make sure your highlight details are maintained bu exposing for highlight and then bringing them back even further in post but if youa re shooting raw, the majority of your information is stored in your highlights (exponentially in fact) Thats why when you are shooting raw you want to try to exposure for the shadows (middle to 1 stop above middle exposure) because you can always bring that back in a camera RAW editor. If you expose for the highlights then you will have a very hard time bringing out detail in your shadows. If you ar eshooting JPEG then yes, expose for highlights.

In regards to Adobe RGB v.s sRGB. It's true that Adobe RGB has a wider gamut but unless your work is being offeset printed you will want to develop in sRGB because the adobe RGB spectrum is out of the range of the printers and even papers you can find today. In essence you will get more accurate results if you shoot sRGB for most scenarios.
Click to expand...

Thanks guys. so what's Adobe RGB / Adobe RGB 1998 ideally used for. what scenarios would you use either Adobe RGB or Adobe RGB 1998?

thanks again,
Mike
 
Did a bit of browsing and found these sites in regards to sRGB vs. Adobe RGB. Before I posted this, I picked a subject (my wife who is reading in shade) and left all settings the same and using Adobe 98 RGB, took the photo. Then I used sRGB setting. WOW! Now, way early on in my digital photography experience, I read somewhere about Adobe 98 RGB being the best choice. I set it there and never paid it any mind since. I noticed that sometimes I had some serious work cut out for me after a shoot, doing color correcting. Serious hours .... Then, because of the last few posts of this thread (THANK YOU Michael B. McGee!), I did some searching and reading (links below) and decided to try the A/B test of sRGB vs. Adobe 98 RGB. Except for RARE circumstances, I won't be going back to Adobe 98 RGB. Read and experiment and see why.

Now of course, there could be variance by camera brand to some degree, but I'm thinking not too much if any. I know most of you in this thread are stuck using Nikon while I'm using the wonderful Sony alpha A700 (that was a joke!) but I think that you will find an A/B test interesting.

http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/sRGB-AdobeRGB1998.htm

http://www.kenrockwell.com/tech/adobe-rgb.htm

http://www.smugmug.com/help/srgb-versus-adobe-rgb-1998

Larry
 
wow!!! great piece of research. thanks alwayslearning. so, what i gathered is to only use Adobe 1998 when shooting RAW and if you are proficient at Photoshop or any other post workflow software. right???
 
If you are shooting RAW then it doesn't matter what color space you shoot because when you develop the RAW file you choose the color space you want to work in. Unless you are planning on working with offset printers that can handle the Gamut of adobe RGB then don't bother. Even if you do CMYK print related materials stick with sRGB... unless its being offest printed your image will look differnt once printed because certain colors will not be represented.
 
Since I never post here in the photoforum, I thought I'd share some recent photos I took.

Since I'm on a horrible computer (see Cafe Thread "Hello From the Year 2000") I can only upload the photos to facebook on my roomates computer and then link them to here. If anyone wants to see a bigger version of a picture (and a lot less compressed) just ask and I'll see what I can do.

All shots, shot on 35mm film, scanned to CD and uploaded to Facebook (horrible compression, but it's all I got right now)

All shot on Nikon FE2 Either Fuji 2oo speed color or Kodak 400 speed b&w. The FE2 is a manual focus and exposure film body from the mid 1980's. I used all prime lenses. Either a Nikon 24mm f/2.8, 35mm f/1.4, 50mm f/1.4, 85mm f/1.8, and 105mm f/2.5.

No corrections in 'post' except cropping and the occasional touch up.

Enjoy

4144_573263583417_39602619_34169129_5946488_n.jpg




4144_573263882817_39602619_34169185_6420202_n.jpg



4144_573263603377_39602619_34169133_4425293_n.jpg



4144_573263683217_39602619_34169146_4929527_n.jpg



4144_573264242097_39602619_34169195_5238210_n.jpg



4144_573264237107_39602619_34169194_7943997_n.jpg



4144_573263713157_39602619_34169152_4060766_n.jpg



4144_573263733117_39602619_34169155_1533563_n.jpg



4144_573263773037_39602619_34169163_1489739_n.jpg



4144_573263743097_39602619_34169157_8204556_n.jpg



4144_573264247087_39602619_34169196_6145566_n.jpg



4144_573263887807_39602619_34169186_7565620_n.jpg


4144_573263867847_39602619_34169182_6504464_n.jpg


4144_573264446687_39602619_34169201_2475540_n.jpg


4144_573263847887_39602619_34169178_8248901_n.jpg


4144_573264441697_39602619_34169200_3095019_n.jpg



4144_573263778027_39602619_34169164_4298389_n.jpg



4144_573263837907_39602619_34169176_6700250_n.jpg
 
Drew Ott said:
Quoting my favorite three. I love the furniture shots for their lighting more than subject-matter, I think. :)

I've been craving a rangefinder camera. I love the look of film. It's not the resolution or the color, but how film captures luminosity.
Click to expand...

Thanks man. In Ireland, the sky is 90% cloudy and overcast. Therefore it creates wonderful soft light through the windows.

In regards to soft light and furnature. Here is a dining room I stumbled upon:
4144_573263753077_39602619_34169159_367626_n.jpg
 
The dining room picture is great as well.

I love the look of soft light that is also contrasty. Too many times I go for that look but create flat lighting instead.
 
DivotDan said:
Shot this as a second shooter for a wedding. Post was done by the guy I was shooting for.

4318_78643269023_579384023_1720498_8324382_n.jpg
Click to expand...


Nice one Dan. I have zero experience in wedding photography but am thinking of going cheap to free as a second shooter to see if I could make a go of it. Maybe not free but I'm very willing to take rookie wages to get a handle on the process.
 
Thanks. It is some of the hardest photography I do. Plus there is a lot of competition, so you constantly have to be learning how to make yourself unique. Takes much practice and constant awareness.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top