Mounting Kinos On Ceilings/Walls

Endless_Static_Sea

Active member
How would you go about mounting fluorescent fixtures to ceilings and such, without using any kind of stand. I realize that shooting on a sound stage would be a lot easier, but I don't have that kind of money. Any ideas?

Also, where could you buy bulbs that are either 3200 or 5600K that fit into regular household sockets?

Thanks
 
Endless_Static_Sea said:
How would you go about mounting fluorescent fixtures to ceilings and such, without using any kind of stand. I realize that shooting on a sound stage would be a lot easier, but I don't have that kind of money. Any ideas?

Also, where could you buy bulbs that are either 3200 or 5600K that fit into regular household sockets?

Thanks

This posting would probably draw more posts in the "lighting" area but I'll take a shot at it anyway. For most work, like your probably doing a stand really would be the most efficient solution. But in any case, mounting to the ceiling will have to be done carefully as (of course) sheet rock alone would never hold. You'll have to find one of the ceiling cross studs that support the sheet rock and mount something up there to attach your fixture to. It all depends on what you have available on the yoke to attach to. A TVMP adapter? Those are really best for stands. A clamp makes far more sense and is more secure for ceiling mounting (you don't want it falling on someone's head do you?). So find something you can attach to the studs which will allow you to attach a clamp. I really think though you're going to find its a lot of trouble and a stand would be much easier for the larger fixtures.

As for 3200K and 5600K bulbs not too many 3200K but Home Depot and Lowe's sometimes sell N:Vision brand bulbs which come in 3500K (close enough) and 5500K (very close). They work very well as many people around here will testify.
 
Kino bulbs can be taken out of the housing and gaff taped up. If that won't work, use a "wall spreader" to create a hard point to mount it on.
 
I guess making a stands that have a stud that goes across from wall to wall would work very well. rigging the wiring and taping the kino bulbs onto the ceiling seems like it would work very well too. also, is replacing existing flourescent fixtures with daylight balanced bulbs a possibility?

basically, what I'm going for is to be able to light a room(s), and be able to shoot in all directions without worrying about getting stands in the shot, or the light changing.

thanks for the help
 
Endless_Static_Sea said:
I guess making a stands that have a stud that goes across from wall to wall would work very well. rigging the wiring and taping the kino bulbs onto the ceiling seems like it would work very well too. also, is replacing existing flourescent fixtures with daylight balanced bulbs a possibility?

Personally, I wouldn't be taping any bulbs in place on the ceiling. You'll feel funny if they fall and break--even plastic coated ones may not survive a drop of 8 feet or more.

Yes you can replace existing bulbs with daylight ones no problem. It's just a question of whether the ballast in your fixtures is a good one or not. Do they flicker or hum? Even if they hum, it may not be enough to be able to hear it. You'll just have to test with a microphone if you do have a problem to see if the mic pics it up.

Endless_Static_Sea said:
basically, what I'm going for is to be able to light a room(s), and be able to shoot in all directions without worrying about getting stands in the shot, or the light changing.

thanks for the help

Then replacing the bulbs in your ceiling fixtures may be the best and easiest route. I've used small CFL fixtures on the celing (much easier to mount) with good result to get pinpoint lighting of certain things. That's another possibility. Just use N:vision 5500K 30w bulbs in some inexpensive clamp-on type worklight fixtures from Home Depot.
 
It really depends on the structure of the cieling/wall. I agree- a wall spreader may be your best option. Which Kino are you trying to attach? A smaller Diva light, or a larger 4' 4 bank? Another option would be to screw a baby plate into a stud for secure mounting. Are there any rafters to attach to? If so, cardellini clamps can work wonders. ALWAYS safety cable things that hang above your head.....
 
I've done the taping thing as well as the rigging thing. What I've done before is stripped the tubes out of the shell and remounted them to a piece of foamcore and then taped the foamcore flush to the ceiling. I've also just taped the bare bulbs to the ceiling. If you go that route you'll want to put some duv or something behind though. The tubes don't get hot but if you have them rigged there long enough there's still enough heat that it could mess up the surface. Make sure you tape well - An H pattern works really well - a piece across the width of the tubes and then another piece overlapping that piece running the length of the tube.

For rigging I've used bare bulbs clamped with a cardellini rigged to a Polecat running horizontally. Really try to use a wall speader though if you can. Also don't squeeze the bare bulbs too tightly with the cardi - I had one explode on me cause I over did it!
 
A wall spreader sounds like the way to go:

http://www.matthewsgrip.com/mse.php?show=products&cat=297

It uses pressure like a spring-mounted shower curtain to stay up in place. You can also put 2x4s on either end for support and paint or dress them them to match the set. I've set up a quasi grid in a living room once for a DP who wanted to light the set with lots of small hard sources from above. two parallel rows of wall spreaders with 2x4s in between did the trick.

If you need any help or advice, call Dave Bunge up in Sac at 888-818-4448, he's the best gaffer in NorCal.

-j
 
rigging the wiring and taping the kino bulbs onto the ceiling seems like it would work very well too. also, is replacing existing flourescent fixtures with daylight balanced bulbs a possibility?

The standard "Select" style of Kino are very light and can be screwed to walls and ceilings easily and safely as long as you use some threaded drywall anchors, threaded drywall toggles, or Molly Bolts, AND you find at least one stud that you can screw into and safety cable the fixture to (preferrably near the middle of the unit.)

Of course, using a studfinder and screwing (with 2 1/2" drywall screws) into studs is ideal.

You CAN use daylight balanced EBW (500 watt) Photoflood type bulbs which have a medium screw base (household style), or the lower wattage BCA bulbs both of which are 4800K and have very short lifespans.
 
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