I do when I can... I bought a cheapo used 8" monitor on eBay for $75; it doesn't calibrate quite right, but has underscan and does the main thing I need it to do... let me see color noise that doesn't appear on the LCD but looks atrocious on TVs...
It depends on how serious you are about your video. An external monitor, especially a professional one which is properly calibrated, makes a world of difference to the quality of your image, the consistency, and saves you time in post.
I bought a used Sony PVM-8044Q for $650 about 9 months ago. I cried once while writing the check, but I've never been sorry since.
It has everything. You can run it off AC, 12volt DC, or you can use two battery slots. It does 16:9. Multiple inputs and outputs. A valuable feature for me is the 'blue only' button, which essentially shows you what your footage looks like in black and white.
The only problem with it is that the 8" screen requires you to get up close to see the fine details.
This monitor saved us several times when we thought we had good focus on the camera's LCD, but the Sony showed that we didn't.
Is it not possible to simply use a small regular TV.
I guess its not.
But why? I have been shooting using a tv as a monitor, will I have problems later on?
[quote author=Bariona link=board=news;num=1083949795;start=0#4 date=05/08/04 at 12:51:29]Is it not possible to simply use a small regular TV.
I guess its not.
But why? I have been shooting using a tv as a monitor, will I have problems later on?[/quote]
Using a TV as a monitor is better than nothing, but it has some limitations. For one, there is no underscan mode available--so you could have a boom dipping into the image and not know it. Another TV may have less of a safe area, so the boom could show up on some sets. TVs also have built-in color correction circuits and generally cannot be calibrated very well--so you won't have an accurate idea of your final color balance. However, a TV as a monitor will still be much more useful than the EVF or LCD alone on the DVX.
there are a new breed of TV's that have come out that are LCDS, 13" or so in size and around $350. They dont have an underscan button, but most do show the full frame, and some have a 16x9 switch so if you are using squeeze or the adapter you can see a normal picture. Your colors wont be accurate on those, but to me, underscan is the single most important thing to have as you would be amazed what you can miss in those few inches of unseen area.
On the Behind the scenes of The Italian Job DVD the Director, F. Gary Gray, is seen holding a XL-1 with a little monitor attached to the camera like you would see a 16mm Arriflex film camera or other film cameras. I am thinking about trying that with the DVX100. The attached screen would give you a better view to look at rather then the flip out screen on the camera.
I am using a used JVC 1400SU that I purchased from Broadcast Video Gear in Burbank (http://www.bexel.com/bbsservices.htm) for about $350.00. This has doubled as a studio monitor for my edit suite and an on site production monitor. Its a 14in monitor, has underscan, blue check, pulse cross, and a speaker for monitoring audio if you need it. I have been very happy with the performance of this unit. I have bought two from them so far and they are great for DV and Beta production and editing. I also use the monitors for color correction because the calibrate easily and are quite reliable. Can't beat the price.
"A valuable feature for me is the 'blue only' button, which essentially shows you what your footage looks like in black and white"
Speedbump,
Is Sony's "blue only" mode really white instead of blue? It sounds like it is, which is good...I think. One feature I'm looking for in a monitor is the ability to switch off color so you can better tell the contrast of a picture, and the Sony's don't list "color off" as an option where the Ikegami I've been looking at does. But if "blue only" does the same thing, I'd lean more towards the Sony with its higher resolution. Is this the case?
If you really want to see a B&W image on your Sony monitor, just turn the chroma all the way down.
The blue-gun only mode is actually for setting the proper chroma levels, brightness, contrast, etc. for your monitor when you have a color bars image displayed on it.
So "blue only" isn't a viable way to easily check a b&w image for contrast purposes w/ the Sonys? I know it's for adjusting color w/ SMTP bars, but his statement led me to believe you could also use it for a contrast check. If it isn't, sounds like you can turn down chroma but then you'd need to recalibrate again with bars when you're through - kind of a pain. Can anyone shed more light on this? If "blue only" will work the same as turning down chroma (for checking contrast w/o color - not for calibrating), then it'd definitely factor into my buying equation.
"Look, if you're all about B&W and contrast... you achieve most of that via lighting"
Lighting - exactly. That's what I want it for on the set, and that's why I want to see in B&W at times, it gives you a more accurate picture of contrast without color fooling with you. I know some monitors "blue only" modes are actually white, is this the case with the 8" Sonys? If it is and it'll work for my purposes, then Sony will probably get my money. If not, then I'm back to being torn as to which brand to get.
I've never seen a blue-gun only mode that was white.
Not saying it isn't so, just haven't seen it.
I do think you're making this much more difficult than it needs to be.
As I said, you can turn the chroma down and there's your monochrome image. You say you don't want to hassle with setting the chroma back up again afterwards.
Well, you should check that each and every time you set up to shoot anything.
What does it take... maybe 15 seconds max?
Anything worth doing is worth doing right... right?
On the 8044Q (well, on mine, at least) you get a monochrome B&W image when you hit the Blue Only button. The idea is to do your blue calibration by having bars displayed while you make your brightness and contrast adjustments. I don't know; my camera guy usually does the calibration.
It is b&w, so we can light for contrast.
The only problem with the 8044Q is that its 9" screen is too small for any more than about one person to look at it. A 13" screen would be better, but would make the thing less portable.
I am looking for a monitoring solution as well, but more for framing remote cameras than for anything else. I have heard that the Toshiba 14AF43 14' CRT is a good buy for $150. I have also thought of perhaps using the Legacy L7M 7.2 inch LCD monitor for about $110. each. The Toshiba has S-Video inputs and the Legacy only RCA A/V ins, but for what I'll be using them for (live three-camera shoots) the lighter, smaller, and cheaper LCD option might make more sense. Both do 16:9 display.
Perhaps when I see more return on investment from my current projects I'll spurge on properly calibrated monitors. Spending a grand on one at this point (especially when I might need three) would not be the best use of my cash. Fro that I could get yet another DVX100!
I have heard people on this forum praising the Toshiba as a low-cost monitoring option. Anyone here try the Legacy L7M's? Or have an opinion?
I guess I'm gonna break down and buy a monitor, but my question is am I gonna have to buy more stuff to support it, e.g., do I need to buy gear to calibrate it, etc. While I'm at it, how do you calibrate a monitor? Is there a thread some where I missed or is it so simple an idiot could do it? I'f so, I'm good to go.