MacBook Pro heat issues

I had this issue to so I bought one of those Targus Dual-fan 4-USB port things and it works very well and is portable, being roughly the same width and size as the 15-inch Pro. When it's on, the onboard fan doesnt need to turn on and it can be in your lap fine, and I've put it though Compressor fine without a noticable increase in heat, and I have the 2.16. I agree left alone it gets very hot, but with $25-$50 (if you like the extra USB ports) it can be remedied.
 
...As explained in the macrumor forum, the firmware update triggers the intel Mac's fans to turn on earlier than before, and according to one user: stay on - this will lower cpu temp.
 
It will also tank your batteries. Like I said, making the fans come on earlier doesn't magically pull the heat off of your CPU more efficiently. With the blobs of thermal paste, it gets trapped in the blob instead of being transferred to the heat pipe where it can be more efficiently carried away without the use of jet engine fans. The fans don't pull air across the surfaces of the three main chips. Heck, they really don't pull air from anywhere because the inside is so dense with stuff. But they do push air through the radiator fins at each end of the heat pipe, so again, the heat needs to get off the CPU and into the pipe.

I was still in the upper 60's with the firmware update. Some have reported 80's. Now I'm comfortably idling around 44 and peaking in the low 50's.
 
I was just reading a story...


CHECK your exhaust vents. Apparently, some laptops have been going out with some of the vents accidentaly blocked from the factory...unblock them and POOF no more heat issues.

I think it was only with the macbook....but its worth checking on all units.
 
hey does anyone know of the best step by step guide to doing the goo thing? im so sick and tired i think im gonna do it today.
 
Jarred... this is what I used...

http://www.ifixit.com/Guide/85.1.0.html

That shows you the step-by-step disassembly. You can skip the hard drive removal, but it still needs to be disconnected from the main board. I strongly advise a big area where you can map out your screws. You MUST have a T6 Torx driver, as these things are secured with Loc-Tite and you'll strip the heads with any other tool. As for the actual goo replacement, you probably have lint-free lens tissues, and I suggest getting it off the chips and heat pipe as best you can. Be careful not to pull off any of the little nubby things on the graphics chip. It will wipe off pretty cleanly.

Then get a little tube of Arctic Silver. People talk about AS5, but I already had AS Ceramique lying around, so I used that. It's thermal transmission properties aren't quite as strong, but it's perfectly adequate.

Apply just a thin coat on the little chip surfaces themselves. Don't go nuts here, just a little dab spread around with the end of the tube is enough. Be careful when you reassemble (follow the directions in reverse) to make sure you don't get it on anything else when you put the main board back in.

Remember that the chemical properties of the AS are that it has to heat up and cool down something like three times before it reaches its most efficient thermal transmission. Heat it up, turn it off, let it cool. Lather, rinse, repeat. :)
 
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for_mlove said:
http://www.macdevcenter.com/pub/a/mac/2006/05/23/thermal-paste-question.html

Let us know if your results are any more dramatic than the author's.
His results are flawed, which is odd because he linked the very page that would show why his results weren't right. If you read the AS5 page, it spells it out in terms of the stuff having to thin out and fill the cracks, and the way it takes many hours to reach its "final consistency." Turning the thing on and measuring the heat right after you do the procedure won't result in anything.
 
Interesting, that makes sense and it's too bad he missed that. The whole article seemed very thorough and in his pictures it was obvious that he was meticulous about the whole thing. If Jarred get's good results, I'll be sold.
 
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