Lighting test pics.... update

Hi.... I am currently attempting to light a scene in a small room (12X10...about) The light that I am basing my key on is a small bedside lamp..... I am replacing that bulb with a 15watt so that it doesnt shine like an orb of light..... As my key I will use a 60watt with an amber filter .... pointing down...... filll is about a 30 watt with an ND filter (maybe a bit stronger..... trying to create depth to the picture) and my back light will also be pointing down and it is about 100 -125 watt with a blue gel.... This scene takes place at night..... Any suggestions or am I on the right track?? The problem is that the lights will be so close to the actors so I have to use lower wattage bulbs ... or is there somethign else I can do.... Keep in mind the room is pretty cluttered... a computer a bed and a TV stand.....
 
Sounds like a good setup. The wattage doesn't matter as long as you have your ratios right, in this case 2:1 key:fill. Post a still after you shoot.
 
Establish what T-stop you want to shot at based upon the DOF that you need for the scene. Then select the output of your key to match and then adjust the size (output) of your other instruments to set the desired ratios. As long as you have the minimum key value you need you are finished, you are fine. If its over, then just add an appropriate amount of ND (in front of the lens) to get back the the T-stop you desire.

Make certain to carve a few shadows to keep the scene interesting. Even something as simple as some black foil can work wonders.
 
Lighting Test Pics Plz check

Lighting Test Pics Plz check

Hey I shot the below with a DVX 100 A.... It's just a test.... hense the wig with no make up.... I am wondering what I can do to add to the lighting.... All I used was one 124 watt with an amber filter.... I'm looking for a warm feel and it seems I have it, but its missing something. It seems that when I add a back light or another light (fill) it ruins the picture making it too bright and looking almost like a saturday night live skit.... I have a lot of gets to work with so if you have any suggestions plz let me know.....
 

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Without benefit of a story line which would help define the mood your going for...
You need separation light to keep your actor from disappearing into the background. A chinese lantern could also be gelled "Amber" as you call it, this would also raise the overall brightness of the room. A light on the background
would provide some separation, and I would also very softly, add a hair light with say a 150 watt light with diffusion.
This room could be lit a dozen or more ways, it depends on what you want.
Some people might choose a small 2 bulb Kino from below the actors eye line, others might want to pump a bunch of light from outdoors, coming through windows. Somebody else might just want a couple of practicals....Hard to say without more info.
 
This scene is supposed to be at night with just a small bed lamp on the side of the bed.... My question is how do I add light to this small room *such as a back light* with out overlighting it and making it seem as though the light is shining on the actor.... There is very little room behind the actor...... Its a very small room.
 
I am no lighting expert, but I would Put your backlight in to give your talent some halo, bounce some key light into the left side (your left) of the actor's face and then close the iris down to where it doesn't look over lit. But like I said, I am no expert.
 
Lighting test pics.... update

I used a blue gel back light and a fill with an amber filter like my key..... Any other ideas??? The last 1 that looks too orange is the older version
 

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The lighting in the frame grabs looks very unmotivated. There appears to be no "reason" for the light that is hitting your subject. The dead center framing isn't helping at all either.

From the one grab, the door appears to have a source that is off screen to the left (as seen by the shadow of the light switch and around the door frame) however, your key for your talent is from the right side of the frame. This makes for a very artificial look to your lighting design. You need to think in terms of where and why you have lighting in your setups.
 
Well that light behind is a backlight and it does seperate me from the wall.... This scene will take place at night so maybe it may be light coming from the outside.... There are two windows in the room...... Also what do you mean "blockage"? What else can I do to fix this..... Keep in mind that amber light is coming from a bedside lamp that actually shines that color....... You will see this.....
 
to my tastes its a bit dark even for moody
try a
500-650w key with a CTO gel.
200w fill with a CTO or even CTB gel (or even no gel) depending on your tastes
 
You can darken footage bright footage with an ND filter and CC in post. If its too dark you end up with a noisy mess when you CC.
You want as much range in the image to work with.
 
MikeC10305 said:
Well that light behind is a backlight and it does separate me from the wall.... This scene will take place at night so maybe it may be light coming from the outside.... There are two windows in the room...... Also what do you mean "blockage"? What else can I do to fix this..... Keep in mind that amber light is coming from a bedside lamp that actually shines that color....... You will see this.....

If your very cool looking light is intended to look as if it were coming from outside (moonlight) then it would need to look much more uniform in level (after all, the moon is a considerable distance from your location). This looks like it is coming from a local source and has considerable differences over just the very small area that your frame shows. This source is placed way too close to your frame.

So we now know that your lighting design does have a motivation, but needs to be improved if it is going to be convincing on camera. There should never me a "...maybe..." in a good lighting design, have a concept firmly in mind and then do all that you can to "sell" this look.

If you want to simulate moonlight shining through a window, then you need to cast shadow lines that "hint" at the window frame. What would also help is the shadows from a tree branch and a bit of greenery to help create a look that suggest moonlight from outside. You need a strong and very hard source to sell moonlight. If you don't have access to an appropriate instrument, then you need to simulate moonlight coming through a lite drapery which will somewhat diffuse the character. This can be done with an actual drape or similar fabric and a cookie cut to simulate the frame of a window (often a casement style looks better on camera). Keep in mind that good lighting (convincing) consists of both light and shadows, with each being equally important to "sell" a look.

You should consider posting an image of your setup that shows the space and the sources that you are trying to use if you want more detailed suggestions. Your "blockage" statement isn't clear at all. Can you clarify what this is about?
 
Agree with khmuse, and another point is your lighting doesnt need to be so dark. I dont like that amber color much at all though. You dont need to exactly match practical light colour, but you must match its motivation. e.g. is moonlight actually blue? Nope.

One thing moonlight is - dispersed/even. So spotting your moonlight looks unatural. If lighting from within the room your really need two sources Id suggest, one to act as moon a soft dispersed light - softbox maybe. Something with CTB perhaps. Then a scond hard source to create some texture - should add here: shoot it through something to cast shadows.
Then finally add the fill that appears to come from your practical.


In these grabs it seems like the light source is high and above the door. The last grab looks like late afternoon.
 
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