Lighting Setup: Table Lamps

cardmaverick

cardmaverick

Well-known member
I'm very experienced with lighting and have lit many difficult subjects, however, there is one situation that I've been heavily concentrating on for quite some time. How to light a scene where a table lamp is visible in frame, and make it look good. I've created a handful of various setups in the past, all have had their pluses and minuses. Does anyone here have any suggestions on this?

My best setup so far:

1.) Increase the wattage bulb to 200-500 watts, scrim down the shade using metal screening custom cut to fit, then exposed for the light coming out under the shade (non diffused). The room was then filled in using a scoop bounce off the cieling directly over top of the lamp (to keep the falloff radiating correctly...). I then set up a small scoop light to accent the subject to create motivated light out of the lamp.

This wasn't too bad, but I feel like there are better techniques out there. My biggest headache isn't creating light on subjects farther away from the lamp though, its items and people near it. I'm also striving for a very accentuated look, I really want people to feel the light in the scene and get a nice V shape coming up and down from the shades openings.
 
Since I can't see your set or the lamp, or the room dimensions,ceiling height ect.
I'll simply suggest that you MIGHT consider going the other way with the lamp.
Dim it down to say 60 or 40 watts so the shade it self is not blown out, and use Dedo's or Arri 150's to light your talent. Warm them up to match the warmth of your practical.
If you must use this light as your source, perhaps a different shade on it, put a reflective dish just above the bulb and make the lamp have more "Down light".
Swap the scoop light for a tighter pattern from say a 300 watt arri or Mole , and tighten up your barndoor and round the edge pattern with some blackwrap. Fire this light directly above your practical, into the ceiling, to simulate the normal light coming from the top of the shade.
I do like your idea of the custom wire scrim inside your practical. I have done something simliar in the past,by custom cutting some 216 to fit inside a shade, as well as a color correcting gel.
For close ups of people sitting near this lamp, you could try using a paper chinese lantern. Hold the lantern so that the bottom hole faces talent, and use the UN-diffused light from the hole on their shirt or shoulder, and the diffused portion coming from the lower side of the lantern to light their faces.
GET it? So the brighter light from under the lamp hits their body, and from what we assume is light from the shade of the lamp hits their face.
My 2 cents.. Good luck. Jon
P.S. Liked your website.
 
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" How to light a scene where a table lamp is visible in frame, and make it look good."
i always like lighting the room with a difused 300w satchler and and dedo, both with 1/2ctb.
white balance with the table light off, them switch on table lamp (40 or 60w no more)
the lamp will now give a nice warm glow

ian
 
I keep a selection of 15 through 40w bulbs for when a practical lamp is going to be on camera. If you don't have a lower wattage bulb - or if you need to lower it even further - you can use a dimmer, although that can wreak havoc with the color temperature. You can also use spray in black hair coloring to stop down the practical bulb.

Joe
 
Thanks for the insight, I honestly never really thought about trying lower than usual wattage bulbs! I'll have to play with that. If you're wondering about the metal scrims, I got the material at our favorite store around here, Home Depot! It just aluminum screening used in window screens. The EXACT same stuff used in scrims. My meter reading gave it a half stop rating. If you want really cheap nets, you can get black fiberglass screen. It has a reflective rating of around 2/3 stop.:thumbup:
 
cardmaverick said:
Thanks for the insight, I honestly never really thought about trying lower than usual wattage bulbs! I'll have to play with that. If you're wondering about the metal scrims, I got the material at our favorite store around here, Home Depot! It just aluminum screening used in window screens. The EXACT same stuff used in scrims. My meter reading gave it a half stop rating. If you want really cheap nets, you can get black fiberglass screen. It has a reflective rating of around 2/3 stop.:thumbup:
Click to expand...

Yeah the black fiberglass screen is nice.. I also use BLACK tule. That's the same fabric that a dancer's Tu-Tu' is made out of. I bought a whole bolt of this fabric. You can get it at almost any good sized fabric store. I never got around to making actual framed nets with it, but I keep it around to knock down window light with. To me , it seems like this fabric is in-between a single and double net.
Good luck on your lighting set-up.
 
I have used blue gels and wrapped them around the lamp light bulb held together by a small slice of gaffers tape and it helps to match color temp and it looks great.....that is when trying to match light coming in from outside. ....also, I've used and seen mixed lighting used to create moods and add depth....but it's all on framing and personal tastes. :thumbup:

EDIT: don't wrap the gels to tight....I just create a loop that slides over the bulb. I haven't had a problem yet with heat since I'm normally using 60-75 watt bulbs which don't come close to the heat of my Arri's.
 
filmat11 said:
I also use BLACK tule. That's the same fabric that a dancer's Tu-Tu' is made out of.
Click to expand...

I picked up a bunch of it, too. The looks on the faces of the two women working in the fabric store was great. They had no idea why a guy like me would be buying the stuff.:)
 
HorseFilms said:
I picked up a bunch of it, too. The looks on the faces of the two women working in the fabric store was great. They had no idea why a guy like me would be buying the stuff.:)
Click to expand...


LOL...Well , I'm sure it will be FABULOUS...Snap-snap-snap
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Dimmer

Dimmer

I've been using a dimmer to tweak table lights. Home Depot has one that screws between the bulb and the socket that's very handy -- small, no extra cordage, handles up to 150w....a lot easier than swapping out bulbs.
 
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