I dont understand the differences between the 650s and 1k fresnels. is the difference in number represent the throw? (ie 1k has more throw than a 650). What would be the reason to get a 650 then? I figure having the most throw as allowed gives the maximum amount of flexibility when arranging setups.
Lighting questions
- Thread starter felixlee
- Start date
Patryk_Rebisz
Veteran
1k is a bit bigger and bit more powerful and because of that allows you to set up the light a bit area.
ian dart
Well-known member
hi felixlee,
the numbers refer to the maximum WATTAGE globes the light is built for.
800 = 800 watt, 1000 = 1000 watts etc
the amount of throw depends on the type of light fixture.
open face readhead, blondie, etc will give a broad spread.
fresnel will give a more controlable even spread (spot to flood).
flood will give you ....well.. a flood of light.......
so obviously a 1000 watt light will have more throw than a 600 watt
the formula.... watts divided by voltage...will give you the amperage.
eg 1000 watts divided by 120 voltage = amperage...8.3 amps
cheers
ian
the numbers refer to the maximum WATTAGE globes the light is built for.
800 = 800 watt, 1000 = 1000 watts etc
the amount of throw depends on the type of light fixture.
open face readhead, blondie, etc will give a broad spread.
fresnel will give a more controlable even spread (spot to flood).
flood will give you ....well.. a flood of light.......
so obviously a 1000 watt light will have more throw than a 600 watt
the formula.... watts divided by voltage...will give you the amperage.
eg 1000 watts divided by 120 voltage = amperage...8.3 amps
cheers
ian
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Most light manufacturers have information somewhere about the photometrics of their fixtures. Sometimes you can download this information and study it.
Arri has an online photometrics calculator that you can get to here: http://www.arri.de/lighting/europe_asia_australia_africa/photometric_calculator.html
Use it to compare the light output at similar conditions for Arri 650 and 1K fresnels and you will have reliable numbers for objective evaluation.
Arri has an online photometrics calculator that you can get to here: http://www.arri.de/lighting/europe_asia_australia_africa/photometric_calculator.html
Use it to compare the light output at similar conditions for Arri 650 and 1K fresnels and you will have reliable numbers for objective evaluation.
ilauzirika
Boring Senior Member
I don't know, I see it as logical step forward.
150*2= 300
300*2= 600
650*2= 1300 (subtract 300 and you have a 1000w fresnel, subtract 100 and you have a nice 1200 hmi)
1000*2= 2000
2000*2= 4000 (add 1000 and you have a nice 5k light, leave it alone and you'll have a far more versatile 4k hmi...)
5000*2= 10000
10000*2= 20000
......
So if you look at those numbers you see a similarity with the different lights that are available.
I don't know maybe I discovered a conspiracy or something like that.....
150*2= 300
300*2= 600
650*2= 1300 (subtract 300 and you have a 1000w fresnel, subtract 100 and you have a nice 1200 hmi)
1000*2= 2000
2000*2= 4000 (add 1000 and you have a nice 5k light, leave it alone and you'll have a far more versatile 4k hmi...)
5000*2= 10000
10000*2= 20000
......
So if you look at those numbers you see a similarity with the different lights that are available.
I don't know maybe I discovered a conspiracy or something like that.....
Paul Hudson
Vacuum Tube Member
Wattage does not tell you everything there is to know about a fixture. Read and understand the photometrics to get a true understanding of the lamp.
RyanT
Veteran
Very true, look at a diva light and a parabeam. Same wattage, same globes, but one gives you so much more punch.
So if i'm understanding correctly, "IF wattage = throw" the only reason to grab a lets say 2 650's is because of having two lights to work it that can light the equivalent of 1 1.2 par.
I just think that the ideal situation in any typical 3 point lighting setup is having 3 1200 pars for shooting a daylight scene thats indoors and maybe a few kinos because we always need kinos XD
ilauzirika
Boring Senior Member
As others said wattage isn't the only reason you'd choose an specific light. The lens is bigger in 1000w and depending on the kind of head you get wider beams etc.
Lenses Are also an important factor. For example a 575 hpl source four gives out the same lumens as a 1000w fresnel. Hpl is way more efficient than tungsten. And the lens system of the SF is more advanced.
Other important factor is the quality of the light that cones out of each head. For example, freasnels an open faces are both hard lights. But the light that comes out of the fresnels is more directional an creates more atractive shadows.
Basically the answer to what fixture to use is based on the experience of the cinematographer or gaffer.
Lenses Are also an important factor. For example a 575 hpl source four gives out the same lumens as a 1000w fresnel. Hpl is way more efficient than tungsten. And the lens system of the SF is more advanced.
Other important factor is the quality of the light that cones out of each head. For example, freasnels an open faces are both hard lights. But the light that comes out of the fresnels is more directional an creates more atractive shadows.
Basically the answer to what fixture to use is based on the experience of the cinematographer or gaffer.
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To be accurate, you need to look at the photometrics in comparing fixtures.
However, at the very least, if you are going to use wattage as a rough way to approximate output, and that is a fair thing to do, you must compare fixtures of similar design such as fresnels with fresnels and open face with open face and you MUST compare fixtures with similar lamps. Tungsten with tungsten and fluorescents with fluorescents, for example. Note that broadly speaking, doubling the power consumed between similar lights will roughly double the light output, that is, give you an extra stop.
To see how easy it is to go wrong, consider that HMIs are about four times more efficient than tungsten halogen lamps, meaning that for a give amount of power consumed an HMI produces about four times the light ouput in lumens compared to a tungsten lamp. So a 1200 W HMI will produce almost as much light as a 5000 watt tungsten luminaire.
I just can't respond to your ideal scenario above. Every situation requires different tools. If you specify what you are trying to light perhaps people will suggest their frequent solutions. I use everything all the time.
If you want to understand lights, and a fair bit about lighting, I cannot recommend Harry Box strongly enough.
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NextWaveG
Well-known member
Let's address the first question though:
Sometimes you don't need that much wattage. If I need I nice kicker light, I may only need a 300w. Yeah, I could scrim my 650, but it's still using 650 watts of power. Which means you are adding more heat to the room. In tight places, the more heat, the less your actors and crew like you. (Trust me, I was just shooting a roof top fight scene in the blazing hot sun and let's just say...people got their stuff together after only a few takes)
Sometimes you don't need that much wattage. If I need I nice kicker light, I may only need a 300w. Yeah, I could scrim my 650, but it's still using 650 watts of power. Which means you are adding more heat to the room. In tight places, the more heat, the less your actors and crew like you. (Trust me, I was just shooting a roof top fight scene in the blazing hot sun and let's just say...people got their stuff together after only a few takes)
=) so i guess it would be like having a knife set. You can cut things with all the knives but some are suited better for certain needs.