lighting a blackout

T

trueindie

Active member
- Scene is a living room, say 20'x20' with two people in it, at night
- Room is lit high key
- suddenly the lights flicker and the electricity goes out.


What should be the proper transition in how we light the same scene, as we show the same room, same scene, very next moment, with no powered lights, but just a large window on one side.


Any advice will be very much appreciated.
Best,
Aveek
 
I would use an HMI through the window to simulate moonlight. It'll have to be up high to get the right angle. I might also put some blue on it to make it more believable as moonlight. Keep it a single source, unless the characters have flashlights as practicals in the room. If you find you need more light, bounce the HMI around a bit.
 
Thanks a bunch!

And if I want the outside light to be diffused (avoiding sharp shadows), then use bounced light from outside?
 
trueindie said:
Thanks a bunch!

And if I want the outside light to be diffused (avoiding sharp shadows), then use bounced light from outside?
Click to expand...

Moon light isn't soft, but if you want it less defined you can even out the contrast ratio by bouncing light indoors. Nothing looks weirder (That's a lie, a lot of things look weirder) than diffused moon light.
 
There's a difference between direct moonlight and nighttime ambient light, the latter of which could be very soft. Unless you have the means to pull off direct moonlight properly (a lift, a really tall stand, a nearby rooftop to place the light on, etc.) I would stick with a bounced or diffused source.

As for the actual light queue, power your lights for when the electricity is on in your scene in a way that the control of each of them is consolidated into one or two switches. If you want them to flicker before going out completely, use smaller tungsten units and power all off a single dimmer. Have someone bring the level down and jiggle the dial or slide around for a moment, then flick the switch. Don't use anything bigger than a 1k or you won't get the same flickering effect. If you need more intensity, gang up a couple smaller lights next to each other. The light(s) that play as moonlight or what have you should be on the entire time, turning them on at the exact right moment is pointless. Also, by no means does it have to be an HMI. Tungsten lights with half CTB are just as common for night work. They're lighter, cheaper, and powerful enough if you have the amps to run them.
 
Strong backlight is your friend. This'll give a little punch that won't seem out of place with the lights on but will be the main source of light for the lights off.

Add to that some very soft, minor fill so you can still see who's who when the lights go out... and it (should) not make a difference when the lights are on. It'll be so minor you wouldn't notice it.

I've got a shot where I did the same thing in an old reel somewhere, let me see if I can find it...
 
https://vimeo.com/73832386

Relevant bit is at 1:22

sorry it's so short, hopefully you can still see what's going on and decide if a similar technique is right for you

(and for anyone that gets curious and wants to give the rest of the reel a look... it's an old reel! Don't judge me!)
 
(ps the bit I said about the soft fill? I'm noticing I didn't use as much of it as I thought in that particular shot. There's maybe a tiny bit, but I guess I decided since you're already starting the shot with lights on, viewers will be able to retain who's who. Your call if you want to add a little fill or not, it really won't make much of a difference when the lights are on)
 
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