Usually when shooting outside in a sunny day, what f-stop should the actor's face be at? Does it matter if shooting outside, inside, in a shaded area or not, what's the best f-stop settings for the actor's face? What's the f-stop setting compensation for light and dark skin actor?
Light settings for actor's skin
- Thread starter myCharlie
- Start date
Ryan Patrick O'Hara
Veteran
It does not matter where you are, inside or out.
The f-stop will vary depending on the amount of light hitting your actors face.
An example would be if he were in blazing sunlight. You might have a very high f-stop, but let's say he is inside in a dark bedroom. Now your f-stop will most likely be very low.
The truth is that each camera or film stock have different ISO/ASA ratings. This means that a F/2 on a dvx and an F/2 on an Hvx will not expose the same. This is because of many many and many factors.
Ever notice on a light meter (if not, go get one or borrow one) there is a section that says ISO. Well this is important. You must set the ISO to match your camera's rating or the film stock. Then you can use the light meter to tell you what f-stop to use.
Let me take you through an example: I'll start with a film camera because it is more simple.
Let's say I have my trusty 16mm film camera. I'm outside on a sunny day. It's bright. My film I'm using is rated at a 100 Iso/asa. This is stated very obviously on the film package.
I take my light meter and set the ISO to 100. Now my light meter matches my film! I walk over to my actors face and take a reading. It says f/5.6 (for example). Well I now go over to my camera and set the f-stop at f/5.6. Now I know my actors face, as is, will expose properly. If he (the actor) were to move into the shade, I would have to take another reading and reset my f-stop otherwise his face would become very dark since the lens still thinks his face is bright. (Unless I wanted it that way)
A video camera is much like this except there are many more variables which will alter the ISO rating of your camera. Let's just say gamma curves, pedestal levels, and other factors effect the IS0 of digital video cameras.
But on video we have different ways to figure out exposure. Those are usually Zebra bars and the marker.
The marker might be your best bet. When the marker is activated on most professional and prosumer cameras, it appears in the viewfinder or lcd as a small 'box like' target area usually in the center of the screen. There will also appear a percentage. This percentage is the 'brightness' level. It's actually a little different, but I'll keep it simple. The range is usually from 0% Black to 99%+ (no detail white). Proper exposure is usually considered around 45-50% though some like to use 40% or another number or personal preference. The lower numbers are usually because video handles lower zones better then higher zones.
What you would do then would be to zoom to your actors face and get that target box area on his face. Try to get the whole box on his face for a sure accurate reading. If the percentage of his face is in the 40-50% range you are close to proper exposure (for a gray card). If it's less, he's to dark and you would need to decrease your f-stop number. If it's more he's to light, you would need to increase your f-stop number. See how that goes?
Don't worry about zebras for now, they are used more to watch the exposure of the overall frame, and not to judge accurate exposure of the face.
So in film, the lightmeter will simply let you know proper exposure, as long as the ISO of the film matches the ISO of the meter.
Since video 'scene file settings' and other adjustments can complicate this number it is easier to use the onboard marker reading. It will tell you the percentage the face is set at.
As far as dark skin actors go vs light skin actors: it seems everyone has a different answer. The truth is, the faces are different.
No one can argue that an incident (light falling on the subject) reading can be misleading due to very dark skin tones and very very light skin tones having reflective light render them underexposed or over exposed.
But in the end, the argument and opinions start to differ on how to go about the matter. I for one will think about it some more and get back to you.
The f-stop will vary depending on the amount of light hitting your actors face.
An example would be if he were in blazing sunlight. You might have a very high f-stop, but let's say he is inside in a dark bedroom. Now your f-stop will most likely be very low.
The truth is that each camera or film stock have different ISO/ASA ratings. This means that a F/2 on a dvx and an F/2 on an Hvx will not expose the same. This is because of many many and many factors.
Ever notice on a light meter (if not, go get one or borrow one) there is a section that says ISO. Well this is important. You must set the ISO to match your camera's rating or the film stock. Then you can use the light meter to tell you what f-stop to use.
Let me take you through an example: I'll start with a film camera because it is more simple.
Let's say I have my trusty 16mm film camera. I'm outside on a sunny day. It's bright. My film I'm using is rated at a 100 Iso/asa. This is stated very obviously on the film package.
I take my light meter and set the ISO to 100. Now my light meter matches my film! I walk over to my actors face and take a reading. It says f/5.6 (for example). Well I now go over to my camera and set the f-stop at f/5.6. Now I know my actors face, as is, will expose properly. If he (the actor) were to move into the shade, I would have to take another reading and reset my f-stop otherwise his face would become very dark since the lens still thinks his face is bright. (Unless I wanted it that way)
A video camera is much like this except there are many more variables which will alter the ISO rating of your camera. Let's just say gamma curves, pedestal levels, and other factors effect the IS0 of digital video cameras.
But on video we have different ways to figure out exposure. Those are usually Zebra bars and the marker.
The marker might be your best bet. When the marker is activated on most professional and prosumer cameras, it appears in the viewfinder or lcd as a small 'box like' target area usually in the center of the screen. There will also appear a percentage. This percentage is the 'brightness' level. It's actually a little different, but I'll keep it simple. The range is usually from 0% Black to 99%+ (no detail white). Proper exposure is usually considered around 45-50% though some like to use 40% or another number or personal preference. The lower numbers are usually because video handles lower zones better then higher zones.
What you would do then would be to zoom to your actors face and get that target box area on his face. Try to get the whole box on his face for a sure accurate reading. If the percentage of his face is in the 40-50% range you are close to proper exposure (for a gray card). If it's less, he's to dark and you would need to decrease your f-stop number. If it's more he's to light, you would need to increase your f-stop number. See how that goes?
Don't worry about zebras for now, they are used more to watch the exposure of the overall frame, and not to judge accurate exposure of the face.
So in film, the lightmeter will simply let you know proper exposure, as long as the ISO of the film matches the ISO of the meter.
Since video 'scene file settings' and other adjustments can complicate this number it is easier to use the onboard marker reading. It will tell you the percentage the face is set at.
As far as dark skin actors go vs light skin actors: it seems everyone has a different answer. The truth is, the faces are different.
No one can argue that an incident (light falling on the subject) reading can be misleading due to very dark skin tones and very very light skin tones having reflective light render them underexposed or over exposed.
But in the end, the argument and opinions start to differ on how to go about the matter. I for one will think about it some more and get back to you.
Last edited:
Ryan Patrick O'Hara
Veteran
:thumbsup: No problem, if you need anything else just post away.
Ted Spencer
Veteran
Many folks like to see spot readings of around 70 IRE or so on caucasian faces. It's a pretty light color after all. Skin highlights can approach 100 on high contrast shots.
I'd say african american faces might be around 35-60 or so, depending on the individual.
I'd say african american faces might be around 35-60 or so, depending on the individual.
Ryan Patrick O'Hara
Veteran
They are not the same scale but I'm not sure how exactly the IRE scale works. I pretty much never use it. Maybe this can go out to someone else. I know that it's not found on a light meter and is read usually on a waveform.
From CreativeCow
Last edited:
Ryan Patrick O'Hara
Veteran
I can see that. My exposure numbers are based off of a gray card value, but many Caucasian skin tones are much lighter than a gray card and the spot reading will show the percentage/ reading higher due to that.
So it really depends. That's the tricky thing about reading the marker in the camera. You must remember it's a spot reading, not an incident.
Gopher_Greene
Well-known member
Great answer Prodigy. I would like to add that it is preferd to control the light when ever possible. This allows you to to bring the light value into the optimum setting for the lens and makes it easier to recreate the setup if you have to come back again. You can control the overall light levels with ND either in the camera or as a filter in front of the camera. You can control the light in the area where your actor is by flying a butterfly overhead.
J.R. Hudson
Spirit Animal
Accodring to Blain Brown and his book CINEMATOGRAPHY, Skin Tones should be at 35 % if your using a grey card (on an average 18 % reflectance)
http://www.rondexter.com/professional/zone_system/zone_system_for_motion_pic.htm
Here is a nice link
Also
You should always use IRE for your post work !
USE YOUR SCOPES in POST
http://www.rondexter.com/professional/zone_system/zone_system_for_motion_pic.htm
Here is a nice link
Also
You should always use IRE for your post work !
USE YOUR SCOPES in POST
