Light at 300fps.... (RED Epic)

[legrevedotcom]

Well, I've found a few threads that kinda brushed the issue without giving definite answers. I thought that now a year later, more people would have more experience in this area.

The premise is a white out studio shoot. Shooting on the RED Epic at 300fps... in Euro land.

So the theoretical things I've found so far is that HMIs for the most part is out since they will flicker once reaching higher frame rates. Apparently LEDs flicker too due to the electronic construct of them?
And in regards to tungsten I need to go to 5k fresnel in order to get some useful output? (I know 2k in the states, but higher in the EU because of differing hz settings).

According to the Arri calc Im getting correct exposure at 3.5 with a 5K through a halfgrid... but that would hardly get me the white out would it?

So how would you attack a shot where you have a single person on a white background shooting at iso 800, 300fps, 1/600th sec.?

Is it basicly just do as you would with 25fps and just up the wattage all the way around?

 

[j1clark@ucsd.edu]

Well, I've found a few threads that kinda brushed the issue without giving definite answers. I thought that now a year later, more people would have more experience in this area.

The premise is a white out studio shoot. Shooting on the RED Epic at 300fps... in Euro land.

So the theoretical things I've found so far is that HMIs for the most part is out since they will flicker once reaching higher frame rates. Apparently LEDs flicker too due to the electronic construct of them?
And in regards to tungsten I need to go to 5k fresnel in order to get some useful output? (I know 2k in the states, but higher in the EU because of differing hz settings).

According to the Arri calc Im getting correct exposure at 3.5 with a 5K through a halfgrid... but that would hardly get me the white out would it?

So how would you attack a shot where you have a single person on a white background shooting at iso 800, 300fps, 1/600th sec.?

Is it basicly just do as you would with 25fps and just up the wattage all the way around?

The 'white out' effect is because of the overall illumination of the 'white field'. so one light on a subject will not give that effect. For me, 'quintessential' 'white out' look is in "THX-1138"(1971), which was shot in a large 'hanger sized' room that was painted white, evenly light everywhere, and allowed for the 'infinite white' in the background.

For 'studio' work, a cyclorama would be used, and lighting would be similar to 'green screen' lighting, where the back ground is lit to give the 'white', and the subject is lit to the desired value.

I don't think this is 'doable' with one lit...

In any case the basic required 'even illumination' for the white background would start with 100 fc @ ISO 100 @ f/2.8 @ 1/50, and then calculating for ISO 800, that is 12.5 fc at ISO 800 @ 1/50, then multiplying 12.5 by 16, the 4 stop difference between 1/50 and 1/800 (rounded to the nearest stop for convenience...), one has 200 fc 'even illumination' required for the entire visible area of the 'white'.

Post work could take care of minor variations to some degree.

 

[Bern Caughey]

I suspect your attempting to mimic the 180* shutter look, but this isn't necessary with high frame rates.

Consider a 360* shutter.