Lets Get to the Bottom of Work Lights

Re: Lets Get to the Bottom of Work Lights

CArlos,

It's true that Jackman's book focuses a lot on 3 point for interviews. But that gives you the basics for any setup. First you decide where you want your camera, then you figure out where to put the lights to get what you want. There are an infinite number of variables when it comes to lighting a scene. There's no way to address them all. But if you understand how to light a person who is standing still in a room, you have a starting point for whatever more complex set-ups you have. The key is to figure out what you want the camera to see, and then experiment with different set-ups (using what you know as a baseline) to see what you can get. I drive my wife nuts using her as a guinea pig to do lighting tests.
 
Re: Lets Get to the Bottom of Work Lights

hehe cool cool.

i think i find that i cant get the middle ground between too soft and too strong, maybe i just dont have the right equipment.

i want to get me some briteks, i just need to figure out what to get.

2 600w's (one with softbox) and 1 300w? i guess thats good enough for a basic set up?
 
Re: Lets Get to the Bottom of Work Lights

has anyone ever used metal halide lighting for video?
they are some 5000K i.e. daylight which is better than the work lights and come with either a 300W bulb or a 700W bulb. they also have barn doors. they have ventillation ducts on the top &/or bottom. The lighting model i saw locally is whithe and reasonably priced.

i cannot get the britek due to the 240V we use here. i think it would be much of a hassle to play around with transformers.

someone mentioned that they use 6 feet tall lighting stands. these are the standard stands that come with the work lights right? but jackman mentions that the key light must form an angle between 45 and 75 degrees to the subjects face (pg. 88). aren't these too short? do you agree that the ligt must be that high?
10x.
 
Re: Lets Get to the Bottom of Work Lights

Yes they often need to be that high for a key light. On my worklights I took out the top of the stand where the head connects to it. I put a piece of 1/2in PVC pipe inside the top section of the stand, attaching the top of the stand (where the head was attached) using a 1/2in CPVC connector (CPVC is designed for hot and cold water, so it resists heat better), I drilled a hole through the pipe and used a bolt to hold it in place inside the top section of the work light stand. I can get it as high as 8 ft, but watch for bending, and always use sandbags. Your work lights might be a bit different, but you can get the head highter with a little imagination. I also put min ep on crated for more height, which can be a lot simpler.
 
Re: Lets Get to the Bottom of Work Lights

[quote author=thewheel link=board=lighting;num=1097873920;start=15#23 date=11/23/04 at 13:39:00]i cannot get the britek due to the 240V we use here. i think it would be much of a hassle to play around with transformers.[/quote]

All you need is a 240V lamp, wich I'm sure Britek carries as well.

Cheers!
 
Re: Lets Get to the Bottom of Work Lights

thanks for the tips Jim.
that is waht rostronics said: to replace their bulb with a 240V one. but unfortunately they do not have 240 V bulbs. i asked them what bulb model they use, i even posted on the rostronics deal so that i can check locally if i can get teh bulbs but i had no reply.

sorry to ask this again. But did anyone ever use these metal halide bulbs. someone told me that they are used for fotography but no one ever said that they are used in video.
10x.
 
Re: Lets Get to the Bottom of Work Lights

I have rocked the weird ghetto fabolous Home Depot kit for awhile, but have since been blessed with and Arri kit.

I always bring color correct bulbs and paper lanterns (cheapest diffused lighting known to man?) longside the Arri's of course, but if travelling to distance lands as a one man shooting lighting band...then...Paper Lanterns KILL IT!

My 2 cents
 
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