lets be real... Lowels

Should be in latter part of August if there aren't any snags with all the current production that we have going right now.
 
I like Lowel lights a lot. I have 30 something instruments including three HMIs, two Kino Flos, and fixtures from Altman, LTM, Mole, Arri and Colortran, but I use the Lowels on virtually every shoot. I especially like the Pros. They are really versatile.

Lightness has certain virtues and I don't worry when hanging a Lowel light from a suspended ceiling, from a Cardellini on a fan or chandelier or a Mafer on top of a cabinet, for example. You can arm out a Pro light on a gobo arm (maybe even doubled) from a C-stand.
and put that hair light or kicker right where you want it.

I take good care of my lights and never have any problem with any of them. The only thing I don't like about Lowels is the barndoors on Omnis, but they work fine.
 
I am on my third set of barndoors on my Pro Light, they are even pretty flimsy when brand new. The pop rivets that the little half barndoors swivel on are always loose or they loosen up with wear. The place where the AC cables enter the body of the light fixture is always a weak point on certain Lowel lights. On mine, the casing on the AC cable has separate from the actual wires inside at the point where the cord wires to the body of the light. There is a small plastic sleeve that is supposed to encase the AC lead but these very commonly break. I baby all of my lights, they have never been abused, but these are a weak point particularly on the Pro Light and the V Light.

Dan
 
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Dan,
I've had the same problem with the Pro light, where the cable exits the body. This has worked well for me: shove the cable in as far as you can and use a cable tie or two to hold the cord tight against the body. The cooling slot opposite side holds the cable tie in position very well.

prolight.jpg
 
Sneakle said:
Dan,
I've had the same problem with the Pro light, where the cable exits the body. This has worked well for me: shove the cable in as far as you can and use a cable tie or two to hold the cord tight against the body. The cooling slot opposite side holds the cable tie in position very well.

prolight.jpg
Click to expand...

Ditto on the cable issue. My most recent epoxy repair job is on the grommet that the AC cable passes through to exit the light.

Like your zip tie solution, I've also zip tied the cable to the stand mount, creating a half loop for tension relief.
 
The 2K is something we can get on special order so we can definitely check on it for you and give current pricing (its 4:30 am right now so too early to check into it) but if you want one I can get it. We haven't carried them because (as you know) its kind of at the limit for most people and what they can run off household (and even some commercial) circuits so there really isn't all that much call for it.

On what else is going on at Cool Lights, it won't be too much longer and we'll have our traditional announcements coming up soon. But, as usual, there's a few fun things coming up for this next product intro/development cycle--we don't sleep too much...
 
Cool Lights said:
On what else is going on at Cool Lights, it won't be too much longer and we'll have our traditional announcements coming up soon. But, as usual, there's a few fun things coming up for this next product intro/development cycle--we don't sleep too much...
Click to expand...

That's good to hear.
 
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