Interior Shooting Advice? (Apartment)

I haven't seen Batman Begins. Did they do that? I've heard of big films using banks of big HMI's to mimic sunlight - but those actually make 5600K light as I understand it. Very cool none-the-less. - Collin
 
quoted from an ASC article:

". . .very sterile, especially during the scene in which Bruce and Alfred walk up the main staircase. I had a Lighting Strikes 100K SoftSun coming through the windows at Mentmore as the two men climbed the stairs.”

Sounds like what we're talking about...if a bit more expensive. :happy:

Dan
 
Yeah I'd be lucky to find enough electricity on any of my sets for a 100Kw light, you would definetly need generators and alot of cabling.
 
Collink said:
Pmark23 - black mesh is great for cutting the light from a window down a few stops (which sometimes needs to be done) but all should know this will do nothing to color-correct daylight to tungsten. ...
Click to expand...

That's why I said to GEL your tungsten light -- which is faster and cheaper than gelling an entire window (or several windows.)
 
Pmark23 - you did say that, and I agree that CTB on you tungstens is often the (short term) cheapest and fastest, it isn't always the best. I'm sorry I missed the "gel the tungstens" part of your earlier post. -Collin
 
No sweat Collin. Plus sometimes the big-budget client WANTS to see you spend lots of time, money, and energy setting up a shot so they'll know they're getting their money worth. :)
 
machardi said:
Out of curiosity, why do I underexpose?
Click to expand...

I've heard this before and my understanding is that with video - unlike film- there is no information in the overexposed areas that can be pulled out in post. The most "glaring" example is the sky in video. When it's washed out, you're S.O.L., but if you under expose then there is information there that you can pull up in post.

In other words even minimal overexposure in video does a lot of damage that cannot be fixed. A slight under exposure can be corrected and furthermore it can allow for detail that the camera wouldn't otherwise capture.

That's my understanding at least, but I am a novice.
 
underexposed

underexposed

Ok a sligtly underexposed is welcome, but if you go with much underexposed the dark areas will be noisy and will have a poor information, this is my experience. Maybe -1 stop undersposed is a good solution.
100% zebra will make a good work for architectural shoots.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top