In depth HOW-TO 35mm adapter

armisiano

Veteran
So there's about a million of these on this forum. But damnit, here's mine.

MYadapter.jpg


I had designed and built a previous DIY adapter, but noticed some flaws, and set out to correct them. This adapter DOES NOT thread into the camera. My previous one did, and it put too much strain on the camera causing the CCD to temporarily go askew, which scared the shi* out of me. Anyway, some instructions:
(of course during this entire ordeal you want to be in a very clean environment, wearing surgical gloves if possible and keeping the old lens cleaning kit handy at all times. Dust is our enemy.)

- In the non-threaded end of the female PVC coupler, dremel out a space for the Lens release nob (see the photo collage below).

- If there are ridges on the outside of the wide end of your male PVC piece (there were on mine, although not in the PVC photo above), dremel them off, so that end of the PVC can fit nicely up against the DVX lens.

- Spray paint the inside (outside optional) of the PVC pieces with Ultra Flat black paint, to keep as much light from reflecting inside the adapter as possible.

- Knowing that the wide end of the male adapter will fit against the DVX lens, place the 58mm +10 Macro Lens, with the threads toward the camera, about 1.5 centimeters into the PVC piece. It should fit relatively snugly. Glue into place with super glue gel (IF using super glue, ALWAYS use the gel, never the liquid. It'll run EVERYWHERE and ruin EVERYTHING. I learned that the hard way).

- At the small end of the male PVC piece, super glue the 49mm UV filter. The threads if facing the camera, will fit nicely inside, with the lip of the filter remaining outside the PVC (as seen in the diagram above).

- Set focusing screen carefully in the center of the 49mm UV filter, it will fit very snugly. Using SILICONE GLUE (super glue will MELT the focusing screen), glue the outside edges to the glass. (The Canon Ee-S Focusing Screen has NO GRAIN WHATSOEVER. I HIGHLY recommend it for a static 35mm adapter. It is also a very bright screen.)

- Place the 52mm UV filter, threads facing AWAY from the camera, against the focusing screen. The outer edges of it will lip over the 49mm UV filter. Silicone glue it into place. (Why not super glue here? The fumes MAY get in to the focusing screen.)

- Set Nikon extension tube into the non threaded end of the female PVC piece. It will fit VERY TIGHTLY, but super glue anyway.

* You can then mount a lens, and begin to thread the PVC pieces together until the image on your focusing screen is clear and sharp. The 46.5mm point is somewhere in the middle. When you find it, it will already be quite snug, so proceed to glue the shi* out of it.

- (Redrock inspired moment here) As seen in the photos below, take a 72mm rubber collapsible lens hood, remove the metal threaded ring, and then about 2 inches up the male PVC piece away from the camera, attach the lens hood with a radiator hose clamp. When the hood is collapsed, you can adjust the zoom and focus of the DVX, when the hood is fully extended it cuts out any excess light.

MYadapter2.jpg


Now luckily an old stagecraft professor of mine was able to help me attach my adapter to my Cavision rails. It was really quite simple though, just a wooden piece bolted into the barrel of the adapter and screwed into the rail support did the trick. I later added an additional radiator clamp just for added rigidity.

I have now, FINALLY, added some of my test footage. The clips you'll see were done with a Nikon 85mm, 28mm, and 100mm (no, not 105 if anyone asks). Enjoy and please continue to comment.

WATCH FOOTAGE HERE
 
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Hmm, goog question. I'm not sure exactly since I've never played around with one. But, You could maybe use the same design, and just set the lens of the HV20 INSIDE the PVC end. It really just depends on whether or not the camera can focus on the screen when zoomed in on it. I would love to see someone build an adapter for it. They all work on the same principle where the cameras job is simply to focus on a ground glass/focusing screen. I would say just play around with your camera, do some research, and take a swing at it when you start to have some ideas. They'll probably be some trial and error, some money lost, (i.e. this is my SECOND DIY adapter), but that's something I personally enjoy, and I would assume so do a lot of people in the DIY forum. That thought "I just wanna see if I can DO it, I THINK I can".
 
I consider this a good start but need to be very carefully with alignement.

The threaded ones are easier to align with camera lens.

Have you shoot?

Any footage???
 
I consider this a good start but need to be very carefully with alignement.

The threaded ones are easier to align with camera lens.

Have you shoot?

Any footage???

I have shot, my software is down, I will hopefully have some footage up within a week.
Also, the alignment wasn't difficult at all since everything on the rails is adjustable up & down, and left & right.
 
Have you had any issues with that Canon Ee-S focusing screen? I have read a lot of threads that say the Nikon F3 D screen is the best but they are really hard to come by at a reasonable price so I was looking for alternatives.
 
Have you had any issues with that Canon Ee-S focusing screen? I have read a lot of threads that say the Nikon F3 D screen is the best but they are really hard to come by at a reasonable price so I was looking for alternatives.



No issues, it's been fantastic. Unlike the Nikon F3D which is ground glass (therefore still has SOME grain), the Canon Ee-S Focusing screen is plastic, and has absolutely NO GRAIN WHATSOEVER. It is the best way to go hands down if you're building a static adapter.
 
very nice looking but curious if u have had any glitches in your plan, i would love to see some comparison shots with a real 35mm adapter does anyone else agree?
 
very nice looking but curious if u have had any glitches in your plan,


One glitch I suppose, is I cannot film in full screen. If I do, in some shots I will occasionally see the bottom and top edges of the focusing screen (this screen is a little wider than a 4:3 ratio). But since I always like to keep things cropped to 1.85:1, or occasionally even 2.35:1, this is not a problem for me at all.
 
I am able to see the pattern of the ee-s focusing screen in some of your shots. I have heard this is due to a lower (higher number) f stop. Is this the reason why?
 
flipping the image

flipping the image

I assume you had to flip the image horizontally and vertically in post? Did the image being upside down from the adapter make framing an issue when shooting?
 
problem with the EE-s and or the EE-a screens is the bokeh is horrible. they don't diffuse enough making the bokeh a little wack. these screens are okay for static, but I would consider making a wax-gg at some point for these static solutions
 
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