If you're using Godox, you need this...

puredrifting

Major Contributor
I just bought the Godox SA-17/SA-P Projector Kit. I've always enjoyed messing with Lekos and Dedos
but they are either large and heavy (Leko and the Aputure Leko attachment, both weigh a ton and are large)
or they are expensive (who doesn't love Dedos, but for me, they are an occasional rental).

If you have any Bowens mount COB (well, most, this Godox adapter will not fit the Aputure lights, the depth is too shallow
on the Godox SA-17 Bowens mount adapter). That said, this thing works well on the VL300. I would say skip this if you only
have the VL150 or VL200, you don't have enough horsepower to use it in most situations, other than dark rooms or
with tabletop. The downside of this adapter is it eats (wastes) a lot of output, which makes sense if you look at the
diameter of the adapter and the tube that feeds the lens. I knew this going in, but I was hoping that the higher output
of the VL300 would still make it useful.

As you see from my test image, I am projecting a pattern right next to a brightly lit glass door panel with afternoon sun
streaming through it and to stack the deck, I also inserted a fairly dark gel into the projector too and the pattern is still
at the perfect level although this is with the VL300 output at 100%.

Godox has dozens of Gobos available. Besides the stock set that came with it, I purchased the window set I have pictured.
The unit comes with the 85mm f/2.8 projector lens but for $139.00 Godox also offers a 150mm f/2.0 lens if you need to
project from greater distances. I also purchased a shutter/cutter set for creating wedges and slashes, a scrim set that
reminds me of the scrims for my Arri 150, really small, high quality. It comes with single, half single, double, half double
and three layer graduated scrim that is pretty cool. All for $17.00. If these were Arri scrims they would cost ten times that.

The Harbor Freight Apache 4800 hard case contains the whole kit and was on sale for $59.00. The main reason I bought this was
as a time and labor saving device. I can do almost of these effects without this using real gobos like blinds, scrims and cucloris. But then I also need addtional
C-stands, distance/room size and time. I can deploy the VL300 and this projector in less than 5 minutes and with the focusing
mechanism, I can make the patterns or slashes as sharp or soft as I would like. The dimmer on the VL300 is there to instantly
dial in the output intensity.

Overall, this is an incredible time saver, a great creative tool and very flexible. You pay the penalty for the low cost and light weight
with the reduced output, this is nowhere in the neighborhood of a real Leko or the Aputure projector but for my use case which is
most often interview BGs, I don't need the huge output or huge size and weight, it would be overkill.

Well worth a look if you are a Godox VL300 user.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08HRX2V42/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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Thanks puredrifting - I was considering something like this earlier this year and now you've pushed me over the edge

Some have an EF mount and come with a Yongnuo 50mm but you can substitute your own lenses, sort of interesting. I might get the Godox since you like it. It's pretty dumb how aputure Bowens mount doesn't play nice with other people's attachments isn't it
 
This will be great for mimicking 90's styles interviews!


Would it work with the CLAR lights? I've gathered the CLARs are just re-branded Godox, if I understood that correctly.
 
Oh Yea! That is the answer to life. I've been hanging onto my ellipsoidals because there is nothing like them. The one thing I like about the ellipsoidals I have is the ability to zoom the size of the circle. I'd like to see that added instead of changing lenses.

Let's hope more clever solutions like this start showing up.
 
This will be great for mimicking 90's styles interviews!


Would it work with the CLAR lights? I've gathered the CLARs are just re-branded Godox, if I understood that correctly.

AFAIK standard bowens attachments work with most Bowens mount lights. Aputure is an exception due to the different depth of their mount. All my bowens attachments work with all my different branded bowens mount fixtures
 
As a continuation from the other thread a while back about this... these cheapo projectors absolutely kill the output.
Can still be useful with interior light levels (no window or ambient).
I still haven't used mine yet (bough this like half a year ago now), it looks fun but in actual use it's a bit limiting because of the output... and if you use this at close distances (within like 10feet?) and want to angle it, one side will be much brighter than the other because of the fall off.

My suggestion would be to buy the Aputure Spotlight / 300D if you need to go beyond interior light levels.
 
This will be great for mimicking 90's styles interviews!


Would it work with the CLAR lights? I've gathered the CLARs are just re-branded Godox, if I understood that correctly.

I wouldn't term Chiaroscuro, slashes and wedges for BG lighting as a 90s thing, kind of evergreen I thought?
What's your latest lighting style on lighting your BGs? Quasar tubes and instruments in the image?

Can you post the link for the CLAR COBs? All I can find is that CLAR is Adorama's line of panels and ring lights?
 
As a continuation from the other thread a while back about this... these cheapo projectors absolutely kill the output.
Can still be useful with interior light levels (no window or ambient).
I still haven't used mine yet (bough this like half a year ago now), it looks fun but in actual use it's a bit limiting because of the output... and if you use this at close distances (within like 10feet?) and want to angle it, one side will be much brighter than the other because of the fall off.

My suggestion would be to buy the Aputure Spotlight / 300D if you need to go beyond interior light levels.

Yep, agreed, lots of caveats with this setup, but if you do smaller interior setups or even large sets where you can hide lights, it's cheap and useful.
I just can't get into the size and weight of the Aputure set up, it works pretty well but it's big and heavy in comparison.
 
I wouldn't term Chiaroscuro, slashes and wedges for BG lighting as a 90s thing, kind of evergreen I thought?
What's your latest lighting style on lighting your BGs? Quasar tubes and instruments in the image?

Can you post the link for the CLAR COBs? All I can find is that CLAR is Adorama's line of panels and ring lights?
I sometimes do slashes, but most of the time I find I don't need a background light as it makes things look artificial. Often the key light provides just the right amount of light on the background to avoid the subject looking overlit from the key. Other times I'll throw a soft-light on the background to balance it out with the foreground, perhaps making it just a tad less bright, but not enough to make things look too lit.

I think those background patterns are a useful tool to have, but can easily lead to an artificial looking background, in a bad way. Like any tool, one must chose wisely when to use it or not.

I don't own any tube lights at the moment. I think their uses for corporate and doc work are rather limited.

https://www.adorama.com/clilmax500s...bgjgEYaAlIfEALw_wcB&utm_source=adl-gbase&br=1
 
I sometimes do slashes, but most of the time I find I don't need a background light as it makes things look artificial. Often the key light provides just the right amount of light on the background to avoid the subject looking overlit from the key. Other times I'll throw a soft-light on the background to balance it out with the foreground, perhaps making it just a tad less bright, but not enough to make things look too lit.

I think those background patterns are a useful tool to have, but can easily lead to an artificial looking background, in a bad way. Like any tool, one must chose wisely when to use it or not.

I don't own any tube lights at the moment. I think their uses for corporate and doc work are rather limited.

https://www.adorama.com/clilmax500s...bgjgEYaAlIfEALw_wcB&utm_source=adl-gbase&br=1

I try to be subtle with the background patterns, that's why I like this projector, you can soften any of these into something really abstract,
more like just a texture and you can just use a corner of it or a portion of it. You would probaby like the cutters that let you make any kind of slice or wedge.
I don't like having tubes in a shot unless you are doing something sci fi or futuristic and as far as lighting with them, they mostly have pretty low output.
They are cool for music videos, fashion or commercials where you needs that look but I rarely shoot any of those styles.

I find these really useful when you have flat, boring BGs, like the dreaded white/beige/gray wall that seems to get forced on you in some corprate shoots. At least a gradient or colored slash of light can make
it looks less ugly or boring.

In the end, this is just a tool, it's up to us to use it tastefully in a motivated way.

Those CLAR lights seem like a hell of lot of output for little money.
 
Or how bout for a special on a BG object? seems like a fast way to cast some broken or graded light that will look a little more interesting

yeah I'm eager to hear how the CLARs work out...
 
Or how bout for a special on a BG object? seems like a fast way to cast some broken or graded light that will look a little more interesting

Exactly. We just did a shoot where I had to light up some glass trophies and make them look cool. I used my Arri 150s and got the job done and it looked decent but having this would have taken so much less gear and been quicker.
 
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I wouldn't term Chiaroscuro, slashes and wedges for BG lighting as a 90s thing, kind of evergreen I thought?
What's your latest lighting style on lighting your BGs? Quasar tubes and instruments in the image?

Can you post the link for the CLAR COBs? All I can find is that CLAR is Adorama's line of panels and ring lights?


Have to agree.
We use various breakups for a bunch of tabletop, food and jewelry shots.
It's an easy way to bring outdoor elements that don't exsist into reality.
 
I actually just bought the set of these as my christmas present. Got the bowens mount and all 3 projector lenses.

They also have an iris and scrims/cutters and other accessories for this set up that seem pretty sweet.

I have and was planning on using them on the Clar 120 and 300 that I grabbed last year, although now I'm tempted to grab some of the newer/more powerful ones

Good to know these cut a ton of light, does it require the godox 300 to get enough kick to it? or would a 120 be enough?
 
I actually just bought the set of these as my christmas present. Got the bowens mount and all 3 projector lenses.

They also have an iris and scrims/cutters and other accessories for this set up that seem pretty sweet.

I have and was planning on using them on the Clar 120 and 300 that I grabbed last year, although now I'm tempted to grab some of the newer/more powerful ones

Good to know these cut a ton of light, does it require the godox 300 to get enough kick to it? or would a 120 be enough?

The cool thing is because it's Godox, all of those little accessories that would normally cost a fortune are dirt cheap and pretty good quality. I bought another set
of Gobos (the window ones), the shutters, the scrim set, etc. and it was all less than $40.00! I didn't buy the 150mm lens because if you think about it, the
inverse square law, you will have so much falloff due to distance that I am not sure I see the point in having a long projector lens for distance throw.

The 85mm seems to cover typical 5' to 20' from lens use. if you need long throw, I would buy the Aputure Leko, that has ten times the output with the same light, but
it's large, super long and heavy, PITA to transport and setup and you need a serious steel light stand which many don't seem to have. I got rid of most of
my grip gear since I sold my full sized truck, but I kept three American Steel Beefy Babys and a Norms Steel three riser combo so I can put big, heavy lights
12' in the air safely.

A 120 will not have enough output to be useful in most situations IMHO. The image I posted, the 300 with the projector is about 12' from the wall, with a dark
gel in place and the 300 is at 100% output. If you only shoot in black box situations or do tabletop, the 120 might be of use but in real world interview and small
setups, you need at least 300 and probably the Forza 500 would be better. Of course, the gel is also eating a lot of the output but I would likely use gels for a projector
pattern a good portion of the time so it's a good representation of how many of us would typically deploy the light.
 
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Thanks! That's all super helpful.

Man, I can't imagine how these do on the S30 lights they're intended for. They must have no throw at all.

I completely understand about the longer optic. I'm pretty positive the 85mm will stay on there 90% of the time.

Yeah, the apurture Leko's look good, just this entire clar/godox set up is less than the price of the apurture attachment, so it seemed worthwhile to check out. I mainly have cheap photo light stands but do keep a set of combo stands around. Can't beat em.

I think these will have plenty of use with me, the ability to pin spot and craft tight/punch beams has been something I've been missing in my LED kit, so I'm hopeful these will fill that role.

I'm sure I'll be gelling them a decent amount too, and I'll definitely be picking up all those gobos and scrims/accessories for it. They're all so cheap it's absolutely worth having in the kit.
 
It all depends on your exposure level, too. If you're exposing at ISO 800 f/2, you could probably make an impact with the projection attachment and a weaker light. We're not always competing with the sun.

Or just get an FX6 or A7SIII and expose at the amazingly clean iso 12800 :)

I used to shoot a lot of interior interviews with the c300 at iso 800 and 2 stops of ND, which makes sense because my 5dmk3 b camera was usually at ISO 160. But certainly in that case there was room to lose the nd, gain up the 5dmk3, dim my primary lights and throw a 120w cob with projection attachment and gel on the bg and probably get a fine level
 
Yeah, And I have the 300 fixture as well, so I think I should be happy with them power level wise, I just may need more COB fixtures in the kit period.

I'll likely also buy a second bowens mount and projector lens holder so I can use more than one at once.
 
Theres also the clar 500 for $700 from adorama. I think we're all waiting on eric Coughlin's review of it to see if it's worth picking up.

Right now i have a 330w Nicefoto and a 150w godox cob. Also a 100w studio essentials but it's green and I dont like it. I'll sooner use one of my panels instead for hair light or kicker.

But if I got a 500, that would become my key. The 150 should still be strong enough for fill because I'm dimming it way down as it is. Then my 330w could go to background effects.

But we'll see. I, too, ordered the Godox projection attachment, so I'll get to experiment with it soon and see how much power I need for it
 
Theres also the clar 500 for $700 from adorama. I think we're all waiting on eric Coughlin's review of it to see if it's worth picking up.

Right now i have a 330w Nicefoto and a 150w godox cob. Also a 100w studio essentials but it's green and I dont like it. I'll sooner use one of my panels instead for hair light or kicker.

But if I got a 500, that would become my key. The 150 should still be strong enough for fill because I'm dimming it way down as it is. Then my 330w could go to background effects.

But we'll see. I, too, ordered the Godox projection attachment, so I'll get to experiment with it soon and see how much power I need for it

It would make me frustrated trying to match so many brands of LEDs on talent, that's why I went all in on the Godox COB lights. If you can light in zones, and keep the key and fill the same brand, that works, but I used my Falcon Eyes RT18 as a fill source when I bought my first Godox VL300 and used it as the key source. Don't do that. Mixing brands on talent can cause casts that even a very talented colorist can't make look right and I am far from a talented colorist.

For that Katzkin piece I posted, the entire background set piece is lit from a grid we rigged up with six Kino Flo Divas with the 5500K tubes, but talent was keyed with the VL300 and a VL150 dialed down through a smaller softbox than the key, which was the 47" Nice Foto. I'm done trying to work with different brand lights on talent, it's not worth going down the magenta/green rabbit hole with different brand LEDs.
 
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