How to wire v-mount plate

Patryk_Rebisz

Patryk_Rebisz

Veteran
So i'm trying to simplify the power distribution for my new wireless director monitor. Right now i have Connex Mini receiver connected to Lilliput Q7 both powered by one vmount battery. Right now both are powered by dtap - one on the plate another on the battery but i feel i could wire the plate to bypass dtap connection.

Inside the vmount plate i see red and black cables. The red goes to a fuse that leads to the dtap, while black goes directly to the dtap.
How would you suggest to splice in the two connection to the monitor and the receiver? Do i just wire together the red of both connectors and connect it to the red of the plate and do the same with black wire?
 
So i have the fuse fed with one wire and from that connection (before the fuse) another red wire is coming out that's left disconnected. I presume the fuse is for dtap not to exceed certain voltage then why another red unfused wire??
 
If the battery has a fuse, then what you show is ok; or, if the draw rating of the battery is more than your draw, then you are ok. If it doesn't or isn't, then I'd put the red wire on the other side of the fuse (between the fuse and D-tap).


Always try to use a fuse to prevent wires from burning and melting things. If you wire it the way you show it, and the battery is not fused, then in the unlikely case that the external wires short, you will melt wires, possibly burn yourself, make a mess, or more than likely, burn the wires inside the battery.
- The fuse value should be larger than or equal to your draw on the D-Tap and your external wires or don't bother wiring to the other side of the fuse.
 
Last edited:
Paul F said:
If the battery has a fuse, then what you show is ok; or, if the draw rating of the battery is more than your draw, then you are ok. If it doesn't or isn't, then I'd put the red wire on the other side of the fuse (between the fuse and D-tap).


Always try to use a fuse to prevent wires from burning and melting things. If you wire it the way you show it, and the battery is not fused, then in the unlikely case that the external wires short, you will melt wires, possibly burn yourself, make a mess, or more than likely, burn the wires inside the battery.
- The fuse value should be larger than or equal to your draw on the D-Tap and your external wires or don't bother wiring to the other side of the fuse.
Click to expand...

I checked the fuse in vmount plate and it's F5AL250v.
I'm to power:
monitor: Current 1A, Input Voltage DC 7-24V, Power Consumption ≤12W
receiver: Power input 8-26V (2S-6S), Power Consumption 12V, 330-390mA
Am i good to go?
 
If it matters, on most all of the battery plates that I have, the powertap is rated and fused for 10 amps. And the exact fuses can be hard to find locally(at least the ones for A/B plates). I ended up buying almost in-bulk from Anton Bauer and carrying about 5-10 per camera with the cameras(I'd put them in a small sandwich bag and put them in the side pouch of my PB Shoulder Cases with my ENG cameras so they would always be there).
 
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