How to set Date Time stamp?
- Thread starter naeem
- Start date
Sirius_Doggy
Veteran
Naeem - The PPRo Help file may be throwing you off a bit. There's really nothing you need to turn on or anything. The Time/Date info is embedded in the video and everytime you stop and start recording there is a "break" or "marker" as Sumfun called it that PPro will detect when you have scene detect turned on during the capture process.
naeem
Well-known member
hmmm.., thanks for the input guys. Here's the problem I'm having:
Usually I use the "Scene Detect" feature on every capture from tape. I never stripe my tape - cuz, as you've said, it captures from the Start/Stop function. This has worked perfectly on every tape I've ever captured from.
Except, on this new tape that I taped on a couple of days ago - the Scene Detect isn't working?? Nothing has changed - same tapes as I've always used "Panasonic DVM63PQ".., same capture process.., but PPRO keeps giving me this error that it can't use Scene Detect because Date/Time stamp is not detected?
So, I went ahead and captured without Scene Detect - I hope/suspect this may be an isolated incident with this tape only!
Anyone else come across this issue? Also, do most people stripe their tapes or not? While I'm asking - do most people use their tapes only once, or tape over multiple times? Any recommendations from the manufacturer?
thx!
Usually I use the "Scene Detect" feature on every capture from tape. I never stripe my tape - cuz, as you've said, it captures from the Start/Stop function. This has worked perfectly on every tape I've ever captured from.
Except, on this new tape that I taped on a couple of days ago - the Scene Detect isn't working?? Nothing has changed - same tapes as I've always used "Panasonic DVM63PQ".., same capture process.., but PPRO keeps giving me this error that it can't use Scene Detect because Date/Time stamp is not detected?
So, I went ahead and captured without Scene Detect - I hope/suspect this may be an isolated incident with this tape only!
Anyone else come across this issue? Also, do most people stripe their tapes or not? While I'm asking - do most people use their tapes only once, or tape over multiple times? Any recommendations from the manufacturer?
thx!
khmuse
Tech Guru
I always stripe my tapes and I never reuse them.
The reason that scene detect may not be working on your specific tape is that the head of the tape may be blank. Just advance a bit into the first scene and then begin the capture session again (with scene detect active). This should solve the issue.
The reason that scene detect may not be working on your specific tape is that the head of the tape may be blank. Just advance a bit into the first scene and then begin the capture session again (with scene detect active). This should solve the issue.
Shooter
Veteran
The camera must have the time (clock ) set.
".., but PPRO keeps giving me this error that it can't use Scene Detect because Date/Time stamp is not detected?" This would indicate that PPRO uses the time/date stamp and not the "Start Stop" to detect scenes.
I never stripe my tapes because it will get overwritten and I never re use them...and I never have a T/C or a scene detect problem either.
".., but PPRO keeps giving me this error that it can't use Scene Detect because Date/Time stamp is not detected?" This would indicate that PPRO uses the time/date stamp and not the "Start Stop" to detect scenes.
I never stripe my tapes because it will get overwritten and I never re use them...and I never have a T/C or a scene detect problem either.
Shooter
Veteran
FWIW.
I found this on another forum..
Author: Jeff Donald
The smaller the tape the more damaging the dropout. Why? A dropout can be caused by something on the tape such as dust etc. or part of the tape coming off. The same size piece of dust covers much less of the 1 inch tape than a 6mm DV tape. More information is cramed into a smaller space. that's why one inch and 3/4 inch survived for so long. they were very durable and took the abuses of editing very well.
DV on the other hand does poorly in editing because it is more fragile. Partly due to its size and partly due to the metal evaporation process. The best way to edit DV is NLE (at least to minimize dropouts). the more you play and shuttle DV the more likely part of it will fall off.
What does blacking do? To the NLE not much. If it is your edited master that you are recording you only need to black the first 30 seconds or so. Why? Well, two reasons. One, if you are printing to tape the NLE needs some black to preroll in, so it can edit properly. Second, is that the beginning and ending minute of tape are most prone to dropouts because of the manufacturing process. Studio done tapes start with bars and tone so that the program doesn't start in the most prone portion of the tape (bars and tone are also used to setup the equipment for dupping or broadcast.)
Once you have a dropout there is no way to fix the tape. you can't put the magnetic particle back on. If it was caused by dust from use in the field you might try shuttling the tape forward and back and that might dislog the dust.
How to prepare a new tape. Fast forward and rewind the tape. this will allow any particles that are loose from shipping to dislodge and cause less problems. These particles are due to the MFG process and are loose, but are not part of the recording surface. if you record on it it will flake off sooner because it is not fully bonded to the tape. Secondly, the tape will lay flat. Look at a new VHS tape sometime. Right out of the package you will see spikes or raised areas of the tape. This can cause the tape to record uneven. this can cause playback problems over time. Exersising the tape gets it to lay flat.
What about timecode and all that good stuff? When you record a tape the first thing inside the camera the tape passes over is the full erase head. This head erases the full width of the tape. Everything on the tape, including the timecode is erased. the only exception to this is when you are editing linearly with insert editing. The continous timecode is only necessary if you are editing VCR to VCR. I hope this helps.
Jeff Donald
Opps, forgot a part. It is only a matter of time or passes over the heads before every tape will acquire dropouts. Blacking just puts extra wear and tear on your tapes and video heads.
I found this on another forum..
Author: Jeff Donald
The smaller the tape the more damaging the dropout. Why? A dropout can be caused by something on the tape such as dust etc. or part of the tape coming off. The same size piece of dust covers much less of the 1 inch tape than a 6mm DV tape. More information is cramed into a smaller space. that's why one inch and 3/4 inch survived for so long. they were very durable and took the abuses of editing very well.
DV on the other hand does poorly in editing because it is more fragile. Partly due to its size and partly due to the metal evaporation process. The best way to edit DV is NLE (at least to minimize dropouts). the more you play and shuttle DV the more likely part of it will fall off.
What does blacking do? To the NLE not much. If it is your edited master that you are recording you only need to black the first 30 seconds or so. Why? Well, two reasons. One, if you are printing to tape the NLE needs some black to preroll in, so it can edit properly. Second, is that the beginning and ending minute of tape are most prone to dropouts because of the manufacturing process. Studio done tapes start with bars and tone so that the program doesn't start in the most prone portion of the tape (bars and tone are also used to setup the equipment for dupping or broadcast.)
Once you have a dropout there is no way to fix the tape. you can't put the magnetic particle back on. If it was caused by dust from use in the field you might try shuttling the tape forward and back and that might dislog the dust.
How to prepare a new tape. Fast forward and rewind the tape. this will allow any particles that are loose from shipping to dislodge and cause less problems. These particles are due to the MFG process and are loose, but are not part of the recording surface. if you record on it it will flake off sooner because it is not fully bonded to the tape. Secondly, the tape will lay flat. Look at a new VHS tape sometime. Right out of the package you will see spikes or raised areas of the tape. This can cause the tape to record uneven. this can cause playback problems over time. Exersising the tape gets it to lay flat.
What about timecode and all that good stuff? When you record a tape the first thing inside the camera the tape passes over is the full erase head. This head erases the full width of the tape. Everything on the tape, including the timecode is erased. the only exception to this is when you are editing linearly with insert editing. The continous timecode is only necessary if you are editing VCR to VCR. I hope this helps.
Jeff Donald
Opps, forgot a part. It is only a matter of time or passes over the heads before every tape will acquire dropouts. Blacking just puts extra wear and tear on your tapes and video heads.
Sirius_Doggy
Veteran
khmuse said:
I hate to disagree but I do not believe this statement is correct. When you hit record on the camera it IS re-writing everything including TC.
There is no logical reason for striping a tape that I can figure out. Striping tapes come from the old analog linear days when you would assemble record and black a tape then go back and "insert edit" audio or video on the tape.
When you hit the record button on the camera you are basically assemble editing.
If you are "striping" a tape then rewinding it and recording your footage then you ARE reusing tape. Only twice but still twice.......
khmuse
Tech Guru
Striping is by no means essential, just a practice which can help to prevent any issues when capturing later. For a single project, I used to strip each tape with an offset of 1 hour for each subsequent tape (now I go tape less using DV Rack). This gave a unique time code signature for each tape in a project. The time code offset was preserved despite the subsequent recording on the tape.
The underlying reason to stripe a tape is to prevent time code breaks caused by shuttling the tape (as might happen when reviewing footage in camera between takes) if one fails to overlap one scene with the next. You are certainly correct about the fact that the tape has passed through the camera more than once.
The underlying reason to stripe a tape is to prevent time code breaks caused by shuttling the tape (as might happen when reviewing footage in camera between takes) if one fails to overlap one scene with the next. You are certainly correct about the fact that the tape has passed through the camera more than once.