If you've already picked your location, you're screwed as far as noise goes. Just try to mic as closely as you can and know going in that you'll probably have to ADR the scene. What's your concern with lighting? How to light it? Where to plug the lights in? What lights to use?
I guess my question is: How can I used the lights in my advantage to avoid noise and still maintain the fact that scene takes place in the dark night. In other words not overlighting it and avoid noise.
1). Use HMI without tungsten lamps.
2). Use external power internally to avoid noise.
3). X71-2189+4765Y=inversity of noise law which means avoid noise while shooting exteriors.
hehehe, c'mon guys, it's the cinematography boards...
Just make sure you don't underexpose too much (the lit areas), and that your darker portions of the screen fall under 10% luma. To make things easier, just keep the contrast high, and the black black (dropping your pedestal might help). Use your marker. Areas that print in the range of 30% will be noisy, so try to avoid the majority of your composition falling in that luma range. Change your matrix settings to normal, detail to -3/-4, if possible.
If you keep your lit areas bright and your shaded areas dark, you'll have less grain. Control the lights so they don't sdpill all over the place. Spilled light will raise your shaded areas to that terrible luminance range...
I'm going to shoot this the scene in a back street in brooklyn at night. It is supposed to be very dark, with some street lighting.
I own 2 arri 1000watts that I plan to use. As far as the look goes: Think of some of the scenes in blade runner but without all the neons and the activity. I'm going for a dark picture with some brigths in the far background. I haven't workedout the budget yet. There are still many factors int air, and this is a test scene to see if I can make the character come to live the way I envizion it.
I shot a scene in a similar setting. What worked for me:
I clamped a 1k about 2 stories up the side of the brick building above where the action/dialogue was taking place. I clipped on some color (bastard amber, or straw) to mimic a sodium light. The light pointed straight down, and flooded wide made a nice pool of light. For fill in the faces, we bounced a 100watt Pepper light (you could just as easilly use a clamp light from home depot) into a 2'x2' piece of foam core to fill in the faces. this was hand held about 6' from the subject off the side of the camera. Walk it in or out to bring the level up or down as desired. Be sure to leave part of the face dark, but light both eyes.
Upon screening what I wish I had done is set a couple of lights up in the back ground. Not to light it all, but just pools of light, receeding back. Just a little something. You could use another clamp to light part of a wall or what ever. Just to add depth. I would have also lit up a trash can or some of the gutter in the foreground in the wide shot. Instead it was just dark in front and back. That said, light for your pool of light, and let the blacks go black. You also might want to use the other 1k as a back light. Up high and far back. As far back and spotted in as possible. Half a block or more.