How to adjust audio levels

HBlack

HBlack

Underage Member
I currently have an NTG2 going directly into an HV20 with an XLR-mini cable. Problem is, I often have problems with the audio clipping form being too loud. This requires me to move the mic back, which decreases the audio quality. What's the cheapest way to limit the amount of sound going into the camera? I've heard of pads, but I don't know what they are or what they do. I'm not looking for a professional setup, but a cheap solution for doing louder voice work or recording loud sound effects.
 
A pad is simply a device that reduces signal level by a set amount (eg. -10 dB). Beachtek adapters have built-in passive level pots, which can give you the same functionality.

Mind that you're not clipping on the mic itself, though. If you try to record too loud a sound, you may be overloading the mic itself. Different mics have different "max SPL" (sound pressure level) ratings.

Most location mixers will provide input pads as well as output limiters.
 
You can get a pad at almost any audio store. It's an inline XLR thing (can't think what a proper name is???) that has a switch and will "pad" down the signal, usually -10, -15, & -20. Some mics also have a screw in pad or a switch on the body that inserts a pad.
 
How much are pads?

Also, the mics an NTG2. The dialogue I'm recording isn't very loud at all, but I've been pointing it directly at the mouth. Is this a bad way of going about it? I was thinking of pointing it down from above like I were booming it to cut down on the volume without increasing the echo too much.
 
Sescom makes them in various incarnations. Called "in-line pads" or "in-line transformers" from what I remember.
 
That sounds perfect. So will I be able to use that with my current setup? ie Mic, attenuator, XLR-mini, camera.
 
HBlack said:
Would a beachtek adapter work for this?
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As already mentioned, the Beachtek has it's advantages with pots you control. And if you think you might use higher end mics, you can get one with phantom power. Although I would think the audio on the HV20 might not warrant a $1000 mic.

But for some of the decent battery powered mics like the one you have, you can run balanced XLR (meaning you can use long length such as on a boom, etc.) into the Beachtek and the unbalanced mini from the Beachtek is short enough for no problems. That model is the DXA-2s (http://beachtek.com/dxa2s.html). It's necessary if you want to get the mic away from the camera (which itself is necessary, imho)

If you plan to keep your HV20 for a while and do want options for good audio, I think it's worth the purchase. Just my opinion....
 
I've been booming with an unbalanced 10' cable for a while now with no difficulties. I think the adapter will be my next purchase though.
 
If you want a supercheap solution - the HV20 has a 1/8" minijack, right? Radio Shack sells a cable with an inline "volume wheel" (I don't remember what they call it - headphone volume attenuator cable? something) that will give you continuously adjustable attenuation. About $4.95.

Certainly not great gear, but if you're really going for the Beachteck, it'll hold you over 'til you get it!
 
I'm not sure I want to run my audio through something from radioshack. If anyone can testify to it working then I'll give it a shot, but it sounds like something that would degrade the quality.
 
Oh, I can attest to it working. Quality degradation is a relative thing. If, for example, it's 3dB noisier than a Whirlwind pad, but the continuous adjustment gets you 3dB closer to the ideal level, then you come out even. If you know exactly the pad you need, and are able to get it, that's great... but since you have to have multiple pads, plug and unplug them to adjust, etc., you're more likely to be padding too much and then using the camera's yucky gain to make up the difference.

With a passive device like this, anyway, you're not likely to lose siognificant quality if it's working correctly. Back when I was using these (with minidisc recorders) they would start degrading after a few months of use (mainly evidenced through static while adjusting the attenuator wheel). But again, I suggested this as a temporary method! If you're really concerned about getting better audio quality, get the Beachtek-type device.

Somewhere, I saw an XLR to 1/8" cable with a built-in 10dB pad. I don't remember offhand who made it, but B&H carried it - it's designed for exactly whjat you're doing, and if that's the right level of attenuation for you, it's probably the best solution!
 
The HV20 lets you control the audio level, IINM (which I may be). So try that before anything else; use the joystick, choose audio level, and crank it down a few notches.
 
What menus is this under? The only thing I could find related to audio was the mic attenuator which can be turned on and off, but I don't think that's it.
 
NOTE - I don't know much specific about the HV20 audio

But a mic attenuator (or perhaps a gain control as per the Green Barry's suggestion) is exactly what you want... if it's not on, try with it on. Try whatever the Green Barry's suggesting. If neither of those work, start trying the external attenuator (pad) options we've presented above.
 
HBlack said:
What menus is this under? The only thing I could find related to audio was the mic attenuator which can be turned on and off, but I don't think that's it.
Click to expand...

Yikes. Barry is right. All this time I assumed you were doing this....:Drogar-Shock(DBG):

Switch to P mode.
Display the joystick (hit SET)
Push the stick towards MIC (up or down)
You'll see + or -
The audio indicator will show a M next to the levels
Adjust either < or >
Press SET again to close out
That's it.
The attenuator can be turned on or off on top of manually setting the audio levels.
 
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