How much light needed for a Brevis?

F

FilmBoy77

Veteran
i am going to be shooting a feature next month and i'm debating on using a brevis adaptor or not (i know someone who has one).

i just have a basic lighting setup for my HVX, but i guess what i really want to know is about how much light or lighting setup would i need to compensate for the additional light loss?

i'm going to be shooting in a warehouse building with limited light and also a hotel room for interiors and a few locations outside.
 
Not freaking much. Click the "best post ever" link in my sig -- I shot that with a Brevis and a 22w circline flo. I don't know what the stop-loss is as I don't have a meter, but you don't need much more than you normally would. Of course, more is always better as it's easier to turn off what's there than to turn on what isn't. (Ouch, my brain.)
 
No much at all. Even little 150w show up nicely. You could probably shoot the whole thing with less than 2500w total for all lights which also keeps you from blowing fuses. You could definitely light scenes with less than 1000w if you use the right lights.
 
well damn that's good to know. maybe i'll use the brevis after all. i've always read that once you step into the 35mm adapter world you'll have to double your lighting setup.

thats a cool little clip jason.
 
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That all depends on how close the lights are to the objekt infont of the camera. Using a 800w RedHead close to an actor is plenty enough.

An example of watts...
When the movie "Storm" was made here in Sweden, they used a 100.000w light to lit up a whole street during a night scene. It was the only light used, except for the stores on the sidewalk. For a closeup on an actors face, they used a 15w lamp... so, more watts the longer the distance. For an interior scene, a 800w redhead with a softbox, and one or two construction lights at 400w for backgrounds is I think enough.
 
it also depends on the lens performance you want. you should over light the scene, and stop down your 35 lenses, this way they are sharper and provide a workable Dof.

I mean you can get away with 2500w's. but like in reality you should be using 4X as much, and stopping down your lenses to F5.6. It makes a big visual difference.
 
Yeah, I know... the bad thing is that you loose the depth for more sharpness.
I have the 17-40 4L EOS lens and I'm a bit worried that F4.0 is a little dark.
It's also not breathing while adjusting the focus, so it's a really good lens to use as a zoomlens. Still, F4.0 is quite much.

But as for all lenses, the best performance is at about F8.0, but then you almost loose the reason for using an adapter.
The EOS 50mm 1.8 and 1.4 is performing almost as F8.0 at 2,4... that's quite good for a non-L prime.
 
4x as much? We were shooting pretty stopped down with 2500watts of light for the reason you mentioned. If he tries striking 10,000 watts of light in a hotel room you are going to blow all fuses and in hotels there is not an easy access to the box. You will pretty much blow all fuses anywhere unless you are running a mile worth of extension cords from all sides of a house.
The warehouse could use a ton of light but bring a few generators with you.
 
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