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Guest
Guest
Re: Home made Kino Part 1
Ohh,
That looks sweet!
Very good design. Is that a Matthews baby plate? What a great idea!
More pics! (If possible. I know you're busy, so it's greatly appreciated).
By the way, I found the GE bulbs that one of the production studios uses in place of the Kino Flos. I found it at a LAMPS PLUS in town. They're the GE F40SPX35 bulbs. They're T12 bulbs and they are rated at 3500 Kelvin with a CRI of 93 (I believe). The GE F40SPX30 is 3000 K, but I've heard the 3500K renders indoor lighting better. Am I making any sense or am I just rambling. ;D
Ohh,
That looks sweet!
Very good design. Is that a Matthews baby plate? What a great idea!
More pics! (If possible. I know you're busy, so it's greatly appreciated).
By the way, I found the GE bulbs that one of the production studios uses in place of the Kino Flos. I found it at a LAMPS PLUS in town. They're the GE F40SPX35 bulbs. They're T12 bulbs and they are rated at 3500 Kelvin with a CRI of 93 (I believe). The GE F40SPX30 is 3000 K, but I've heard the 3500K renders indoor lighting better. Am I making any sense or am I just rambling. ;D
Z
Zoomforce
Guest
Re: Home made Kino Part 1
Total cost was about $50US.
Thats an Avenger baby plate. Hands down, on ever item I have seen, Avenger makes better stuff than Matthews.
No Flicker and no noise.. due to the Electronic Ballast. The first identical light I made a few weeks ago I shot with for 12 hours and it worked fantastic.
Total cost was about $50US.
Thats an Avenger baby plate. Hands down, on ever item I have seen, Avenger makes better stuff than Matthews.
No Flicker and no noise.. due to the Electronic Ballast. The first identical light I made a few weeks ago I shot with for 12 hours and it worked fantastic.
G
Guest
Guest
Re: Home made Kino Part 1
Great work.
Avenger baby plate. Sounds good. I'll look them up. Thanks!
By the way, do you put the light on a regular light stand? Which stand? Is it top heavy? Do you have a pic of the light mounted to the stand?
Great work.
Avenger baby plate. Sounds good. I'll look them up. Thanks!
By the way, do you put the light on a regular light stand? Which stand? Is it top heavy? Do you have a pic of the light mounted to the stand?
Barry_Green
Moderator
Re: Home made Kino Part 1
With a plate like that you'd have to use a stand with a rotating grip head. Otherwise you couldn't tilt the light into position.
With a plate like that you'd have to use a stand with a rotating grip head. Otherwise you couldn't tilt the light into position.
Rogue Crew
Well-known member
Re: Home made Kino Part 1
Jarred, that looks sweet! Quick questions. Did you line the reflector trough with foil? The trough looks like its supposed to have ends on it - did you leave them off on purpose? Why the tape?
Jarred, that looks sweet! Quick questions. Did you line the reflector trough with foil? The trough looks like its supposed to have ends on it - did you leave them off on purpose? Why the tape?
Z
Zoomforce
Guest
Re: Home made Kino Part 1
tape is to knock down any reflections from other light sources.
There was no ends, thats the way it came.
And no foil, the white gloss does a pretty good job of bouncing by itself.
tape is to knock down any reflections from other light sources.
There was no ends, thats the way it came.
And no foil, the white gloss does a pretty good job of bouncing by itself.
Z
Zoomforce
Guest
Re: Home made Kino Part 1
[quote author=Barry_Green link=board=lighting;num=1092848834;start=0#5 date=08/24/04 at 16:22:31]With a plate like that you'd have to use a stand with a rotating grip head. Otherwise you couldn't tilt the light into position.[/quote]
if you didnt have a c stand, you can use a regular stand with a gobo/knuckle grip head. I use it on a Cstand with a gobo arm for the most flexibility.
[quote author=Barry_Green link=board=lighting;num=1092848834;start=0#5 date=08/24/04 at 16:22:31]With a plate like that you'd have to use a stand with a rotating grip head. Otherwise you couldn't tilt the light into position.[/quote]
if you didnt have a c stand, you can use a regular stand with a gobo/knuckle grip head. I use it on a Cstand with a gobo arm for the most flexibility.
skippyfetus
Carbonite Member
Re: Home made Kino Part 1
Awesome Idea, I've thought about doing that before. How many degrees kelvin are those phillips bulbs? I'd like to know what the footcandles or lux is about 9 or 10 feet away.
I bet someone that has a machine shop could take those parts and make a large square soft light that's like ten bulbs accross.
Why are Kino's so goddam expensive?
Awesome Idea, I've thought about doing that before. How many degrees kelvin are those phillips bulbs? I'd like to know what the footcandles or lux is about 9 or 10 feet away.
I bet someone that has a machine shop could take those parts and make a large square soft light that's like ten bulbs accross.
Why are Kino's so goddam expensive?
J_Barnes
Veteran
Re: Home made Kino Part 1
Kinos are expensive because of their electronic balasts, not because of their construction, thats' why even Lowel can't undercut their prices significantly.
That being said, the design of their construction is pretty exceptional, and lets not forget that just about every lighting company and DIY filmmaker is putting efforts into copying the kino.
You've got to admit that they have an exceptional lighting system, even for the money they charge. Besides, their target market is the rental house and studio market, not freelancers and hobbiests.
Kinos are expensive because of their electronic balasts, not because of their construction, thats' why even Lowel can't undercut their prices significantly.
That being said, the design of their construction is pretty exceptional, and lets not forget that just about every lighting company and DIY filmmaker is putting efforts into copying the kino.
You've got to admit that they have an exceptional lighting system, even for the money they charge. Besides, their target market is the rental house and studio market, not freelancers and hobbiests.
J_Barnes
Veteran
Re: Home made Kino Part 1
Considering the baby spud, the most ideal stand would probably be a C+ stand with a gobo arm from matthews, avenger or american. It would cost more then the parts for the light, but it's probably the most used stand in the entire film industry.
There are a variety of different options available (arm length, stand height, turtle base, rocky mountain leg, etc.) so I couldn't tell you about prices.
Considering the baby spud, the most ideal stand would probably be a C+ stand with a gobo arm from matthews, avenger or american. It would cost more then the parts for the light, but it's probably the most used stand in the entire film industry.
There are a variety of different options available (arm length, stand height, turtle base, rocky mountain leg, etc.) so I couldn't tell you about prices.
Barry_Green
Moderator
Re: Home made Kino Part 1
[quote author=J_Barnes link=board=lighting;num=1092848834;start=0#10 date=08/25/04 at 05:33:44]thats' why even Lowel can't undercut their prices significantly.[/quote]
I don't think Lowel tries to undercut anyone on price at all. Their stuff is actually quite expensive for what you get, and Britek stuff is usually much, much less than equivalent Lowel gear. For example, the Lowel Fren-L 650 is $400 at B&H. An equivalent Britek is $110. Even a B&M 650 only cost me $240 brand new.
The solution seems obvious: let's get Britek to manufacture electronic-ballast fluo's!
[quote author=J_Barnes link=board=lighting;num=1092848834;start=0#10 date=08/25/04 at 05:33:44]thats' why even Lowel can't undercut their prices significantly.[/quote]
I don't think Lowel tries to undercut anyone on price at all. Their stuff is actually quite expensive for what you get, and Britek stuff is usually much, much less than equivalent Lowel gear. For example, the Lowel Fren-L 650 is $400 at B&H. An equivalent Britek is $110. Even a B&M 650 only cost me $240 brand new.
The solution seems obvious: let's get Britek to manufacture electronic-ballast fluo's!
J_Barnes
Veteran
Re: Home made Kino Part 1
Well, I understand what you're saying Barry about lowel vs. britek, but Lowel really entered the market making $100 lights. The totas, DP lights, and other lightweight broadfaced instruments have been their bread and butter for a long while now, so I think it's safe to say that they're positioned as a "low end" lighting manufacturer.
I'm just saying that if Kino was inflating prices in order to capitalize on their marketshare, Lowel would certainly be pricing their units at a point to try and steal away some of the flo market. The fact is that no one is really undercutting Kino's prices by a significant margin, and I'd assume that is because of the costs associated in manufacturing reliable film-worthy balasts.
We know it isn't the bulbs, and we know it isn't the instrument.
I don't like openfaced lights, so I've never looked twice at Britek, but a britek electronic ballast flo is something I could be interested in.
Well, I understand what you're saying Barry about lowel vs. britek, but Lowel really entered the market making $100 lights. The totas, DP lights, and other lightweight broadfaced instruments have been their bread and butter for a long while now, so I think it's safe to say that they're positioned as a "low end" lighting manufacturer.
I'm just saying that if Kino was inflating prices in order to capitalize on their marketshare, Lowel would certainly be pricing their units at a point to try and steal away some of the flo market. The fact is that no one is really undercutting Kino's prices by a significant margin, and I'd assume that is because of the costs associated in manufacturing reliable film-worthy balasts.
We know it isn't the bulbs, and we know it isn't the instrument.
I don't like openfaced lights, so I've never looked twice at Britek, but a britek electronic ballast flo is something I could be interested in.
Barry_Green
Moderator
Re: Home made Kino Part 1
Lowel's definitely low-end, no argument there! ;D
I just think people get the idea that because their name is low-end, their prices are low... and in my experience, for equivalent gear, Lowel is a lot more expensive than others. They do have some clever designs, and their gear is certainly compact and portable and reasonably rugged. It's not bad, it's just not nearly the value that many people assume it must be. But you are right, the Totas and Omni's are more reasonably priced than some of their other gear, but even so, a lot higher than the competition, especially when you factor in all the very expensive accessories... an Omni 500w focusable open-face, with barn doors & lamp, is $210 at B&H, vs. the Britek 650 with doors & lamp at $105 at Rostronics. Or the Lowel Softlights: a three-Rifa kit with stands & cases is $2000 at B&H, or you could get a JTL three-softlight Everlight kit for $495 at Adorama, including softboxes, stands and cases.
It just seems that pound-for-pound, equivalent-for-equivalent, Lowel charges way more for its gear as compared to the competition, even more than Kino Flo does for their gear as compared to the competition!
As for fluo's, there is nobody significantly undercutting Kino either. The Diva 400 is actually quite competitively priced when compared with the CaseLite.
Lowel's definitely low-end, no argument there! ;D
I just think people get the idea that because their name is low-end, their prices are low... and in my experience, for equivalent gear, Lowel is a lot more expensive than others. They do have some clever designs, and their gear is certainly compact and portable and reasonably rugged. It's not bad, it's just not nearly the value that many people assume it must be. But you are right, the Totas and Omni's are more reasonably priced than some of their other gear, but even so, a lot higher than the competition, especially when you factor in all the very expensive accessories... an Omni 500w focusable open-face, with barn doors & lamp, is $210 at B&H, vs. the Britek 650 with doors & lamp at $105 at Rostronics. Or the Lowel Softlights: a three-Rifa kit with stands & cases is $2000 at B&H, or you could get a JTL three-softlight Everlight kit for $495 at Adorama, including softboxes, stands and cases.
It just seems that pound-for-pound, equivalent-for-equivalent, Lowel charges way more for its gear as compared to the competition, even more than Kino Flo does for their gear as compared to the competition!
As for fluo's, there is nobody significantly undercutting Kino either. The Diva 400 is actually quite competitively priced when compared with the CaseLite.