Hi Hat for vehicle mounted jib?

It's a matter of knowing what your jib needs for the attachment point and how high you want the pedestal to be so that the jib operates properly.
 
Here is the mounting base of the jib
j1.jpg

Here is a closer view of the jib base
j2.jpg

Here is the Manfrotto 528XB tripod I usually use the jib on
j3.jpg

So the idea is to make a wood 'floor' platform with a wood box on top and mount some type of hi hat atop the box to mount the jib onto.
That's the idea so far anyway. But I know some of you guys are much smarter so I value your input
 
Even with the pictures, it's not clear to me how it mounts. My guess is that the jib mount lies flat on top of the Manfrotto ball mount and is not capable of being adjusted for level like a ball-headed head would be. Regardless of that point, since it is designed to work with the cup of a ball mount system, then yes, a high-hat with the same size cup would work. It's probably the easiest way to go and requires no further fabrication.

If I recall correctly, you discussed this some time back and we came up with the box idea. So now I understand that the box is establishing the height of the jib and the hi-hat is the mounting system. It seems ok to me.
 
Paul F said:
Even with the pictures, it's not clear to me how it mounts. My guess is that the jib mount lies flat on top of the Manfrotto ball mount and is not capable of being adjusted for level like a ball-headed head would be. Regardless of that point, since it is designed to work with the cup of a ball mount system, then yes, a high-hat with the same size cup would work. It's probably the easiest way to go and requires no further fabrication.

If I recall correctly, you discussed this some time back and we came up with the box idea. So now I understand that the box is establishing the height of the jib and the hi-hat is the mounting system. It seems ok to me.
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Yes sir and thank you. The jib sits down flat on the tripod and is secured with the bolt.
Yes. We discussed the idea of vehicle mounting previously and someone suggested the box idea which will establish the height of the jib. The hi hat (or whatever is suggested) would be the mounting system. The hi hat is the only connection method I can think of so far, short of some type of plate with a hole that would have access to the bottom. The hi hat would basically give me something similar to the top of the tripod
 
Thanks again Paul. A camera riser may be a good solution.
I'll have to look into those to try to determine if they are strong enough for a jib to go on in a vehicle.
The jib operator would be sitting in a seat belted in so the jib won't need to be mounted real high, but I'll have to determine just how high it does need to be. Maybe a box and a shorter riser? Or maybe just a riser....

Nonetheless those gave me an idea for another project I've been wanting to get worked out so I'll start a new thread for that one.
 
Those risers look like and ok start point if you triangulate in to a traditional car mount build from that.

In general concerned that you should only embark o a dynamic jib project with lots of experience of vehicle hard mounts.

I’m not sure I’d even trust that jib at all.. it looks like the whole thing would be hanging on a 3/8 screw.. IMO not appropriate for dynamic loading.

Imo the best way of raising a camera (beyond specific expensive items like bazookas) is prolyte.. unlike a box one can add triangulating scaffolding elements.

https://www.prolyte.com/en/products/aluminium-truss/triangular-truss/x30d-triangular-truss-length

S
 
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Thank you Morgan. I had some concerns about that bolt holding the jib as well but I don't know any way around that. Do most jibs attach with a single bolt?
Prolylte looks substantial.
Yes I agree about trying to get into too big a project like a dynamic jib too fast. I'm working on another vehicle project first and plan to do this jib project afterward hoping to use some knowledge learning. But I'm asking and trying to get ideas now.
 
A general comment.. you have two threads going right now.. 'mount on car', 'mount high up at an event - you seem to be considering specific solutions which will become costly and fill your storage and empty your wallet fast.

Become a grip!

What will your next thread be? 'Mount over a chefs table pointing down'?

These are all problems I could solve either with my own kit or for larger constructions with renting scaffolding and/or prolyte truss.

Ive developed a system, to which I own the core components and am practiced with and can easily rent more of either locally.. or even abroad.

For example
Here is my (custom) bowl plate that will go on top of truss.. https://www.instagram.com/p/BxXSdn5ltVW/?utm_source=ig_web_button_share_sheet
or
Can be repurposed for car rigging.. https://www.instagram.com/p/BxU0HYuFHgq/?utm_source=ig_web_button_share_sheet
or
I can use the same kit to hang a fishtank over an alexa! http://framedogs.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/fishtank.jpg
or
Even the mezaaanine in our studio is built from scaff - note how the lights can be mounted https://twitter.com/sammorganmoore/status/940543576303390720
or
RIckshaw.. no problem with a bit of scaff :) https://twitter.com/sammorganmoore/status/889474978902683649



The same bowl plate also is part of my 'Dana' dolly which happens to run on err.. 48mm tubes.. which can stand on sticks or.. er.. prolyte truss.. are you getting the picture?.. everything fits everything in my small truck.

Ive picked my 'standards' 5/8 tube and clamps, 48(OD)mm scaffolding, prolye truss (also 48mm tubes) - Im not saying they are the best standards for you.. Im just saying I have standards and have learned how to build 'anything' with that standard kit. I have a small load of this stuff myself and know where to rent quantities of the same for large builds.

Tomorrow I have to hang a large and heavy background.. its wrapped on.. 48mm tube (of course)
 
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Thanks again Morgan and great points.

You are correct. I've been trying to accomplish various things and largely looking at each as it's own specific individual solution/sytem rather than have a highly adjustabe kit to adapt for each solution.
Since I'm always trying to figure out how to capture some unique shot in some type of situation I need to approach it like you do.

Part of the problem is I am very poor at fabricating stuff, very limited on time and I do not know anyone that does this or understands it. So I've been asking the knowledgeable people online to get better ideas and then figure out how to do it, which usually means piecing stuff together. I know the end results I want but getting there is the challenge :)

I suppose one good thing is these threads I've made such as "how do I make a camera rig to glide down a water slide while inverted and rotating" are archived so searchers in the future may find them when they are trying to do the same thing, haha.

After looking at your pictures I see that arrving on some type of standard size modular components like those that can be adapted and repurposed for lots of different possibilities is the direction I need to learn and proceed.
Thanks again. You are one of several brilliant people on here so I always value your input.
 
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There's bound to be a fabricator in your area that has genius skills to come up with clever solutions and really likes to be inventive and work on individual projects and isn't that costly. Don't go to a machine shop. They have a lot of overhead and work from drawings. Look around for someone that says they are a welder or fabricator. A guy I know works on anything from making small gears to making up fully rigged camera trucks. He did stuff for me at very reasonable rates. It's just him. No front office, no one to take calls, no one doing billing. Just him. That's the kind of guy to look for. I'm 40 miles from a big city. Yet here is a guy working on camera trucks.

Ask around to other production companies that may need the kinds of fabrication you need. Maybe they can point you to someone.
 
Most of my stuff is not fabricated.. its off the shelf .. and cheap!

Yep I have some crazy fabrication projects on the go.

The only 'custom' bit I have displayed in this thread is my 100m plate
Its a standard
prolyte plate ($30)
with a 100m hole in it - need a fabricator
And a hague bowl https://www.cameragrip.com/hague-ba100-bowl-adaptor-100mm/ ($60)

Everything elase is
scaffolding
doughty
manfrotto
16mm studding (found)

Yep ive building up the bits box for years :)

Waterslides.. yep been there gopro with hanging mass in the geometry of a steadicam! https://www.cameragrip.com/hague-ba100-bowl-adaptor-100mm/
 
Paul F said:
There's bound to be a fabricator in your area that has genius skills to come up with clever solutions and really likes to be inventive and work on individual projects and isn't that costly. Don't go to a machine shop. They have a lot of overhead and work from drawings. Look around for someone that says they are a welder or fabricator. A guy I know works on anything from making small gears to making up fully rigged camera trucks. He did stuff for me at very reasonable rates. It's just him. No front office, no one to take calls, no one doing billing. Just him. That's the kind of guy to look for. I'm 40 miles from a big city. Yet here is a guy working on camera trucks.

Ask around to other production companies that may need the kinds of fabrication you need. Maybe they can point you to someone.
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I'll second that. Full-blown machine shops/fab-shops are not cheap. Lots of overhead(engineers, machinists, front office personnel to bill and answer phone, etc.) and they generally don't like devoting time to someone that is just getting a one-off or micro-run of a small custom part. Well, I shouldn't go that far, but you're not gonna be a big priority compared to the companies that are having them build pieces by the 100's or 1,000's. I wanted a super low-profile knob for my head to go on my baby-legs/hi-hat so that I could get it as low to the ground as possible(lower than the tie-down handle that came with the head). The legs did come with a super low-profile tie-down knob, but it wasn't compatible with my head, because Vinten uses this weird thread scheme that no one else on earth(building tv equipment) uses. After finally figuring out the thread specs(that even the Vinten engineers couldn't properly articulate to them), they had to special order the bit to tap out the tie-downs. I'm pretty sure the custom tie-downs, that I don't even use now, cost as much or more than the hi-hat did.
 
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Aha - I don’t know that thread.

Hague use m10 - so yes I knocked up a super skinny tie down that u can do up with a grinder tool :)

Machine shops are a pita- but laser cutting houses are the way to go.

1) learn fusion 360 - the davinci of cad
2) send off your design
3) get it back fast and cheap
 
And now there are 3D printing houses. So if you can draw it, they can make smaller items out of hard/soft plastics or even metal now at a reasonable price.
 
Metal printing is not really reasonably priced unless there has been a big drop in prices in the last year. Unless it is extremely complex in shape, I find that machine shops will cut these from stock cheaper than printing. And that most things I can figure out how to cut on my little milling machine. Need to buy a small lathe, but really need a proper workshop to set it all up in. Nothing the lottery can't fix.

Plastic printing has it's place, but unless you are printing nylon, the strength is not really well good. Printing nylon takes a more expnsive machine, andespecially so if it has fibers in the plastic for strength. PETG is about the most common plastic I would use for anything semi structural, and note that I don't really feel it is very strong so I would only use it for low loading situations (like lens gears).

BTW, I just ordered a new welder to replace the cheap garbage one that failed, an AC TIG unit so I can weld aluminum. Should I open up as a one off fabricator for some of these strange pieces? Many of you have seen some of the work I've done on bits and pieces for my own use.
 
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