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Good or Not?
- Thread starter DBoz699
- Start date
discs of tron
Well-known member
c-count or rx mount. the reflex ones need the rx mount. they're physically the same size but there's a difference in how much of the lens hangs out being the mount.
yes they need a lightmeter. no big deal. lighmeters are very easy to use once you get the hang of it. some bolex kits were sold with a meter made just for bolexes. this would be good to get if you can find it, because bolexes use a different shutter angle/speed than just about any other movie or still camera. i believe it translates into about 1/80th of a sec at 24fps. with a regular meter, it's not too big a deal- you either set your shutter speed in between the 1/60 and 1/90 settings, or just set your meter for 1/90 if you're using neg and 1/60 if you're using reversal.
yes they need a lightmeter. no big deal. lighmeters are very easy to use once you get the hang of it. some bolex kits were sold with a meter made just for bolexes. this would be good to get if you can find it, because bolexes use a different shutter angle/speed than just about any other movie or still camera. i believe it translates into about 1/80th of a sec at 24fps. with a regular meter, it's not too big a deal- you either set your shutter speed in between the 1/60 and 1/90 settings, or just set your meter for 1/90 if you're using neg and 1/60 if you're using reversal.
Doing your own color processing isn't significantly more complicated OR more hazardous than black and white processing. If you're shooting color negative stock, you do C-41 processing and if you shoot color reversal film, you'd process with E-6 chemicals. You can find the MSDS (material safety data sheets) for both processes at:
http://www.jobo-usa.com/msds/msds.htm
Neither kit contains carcinogenic chemicals, but you should do *any* processing in a well ventilated area. I believe both are 3 bath processes, so they're not a lot more complicated than processing B&W film--a few extra steps depending on which process you use. The used chemicals can be safely poured down the sink as long as you flush with copious amounts of water. Check out the Tetanol kits here:
http://www.jobo-usa.com/products.htm#Tetenal Photo Chemicals
http://www.jobo-usa.com/msds/msds.htm
Neither kit contains carcinogenic chemicals, but you should do *any* processing in a well ventilated area. I believe both are 3 bath processes, so they're not a lot more complicated than processing B&W film--a few extra steps depending on which process you use. The used chemicals can be safely poured down the sink as long as you flush with copious amounts of water. Check out the Tetanol kits here:
http://www.jobo-usa.com/products.htm#Tetenal Photo Chemicals
blckhawk542 said:Scarier? is it like mutated acid? lol....How do u dispose the chemicals?
Barry_Green
Moderator
Regarding bolexes -- it's not so much that the shutter angle is different, it's that the Bolex uses a light-splitting prism instead of a mirror shutter. The prism diverts light up to the viewfinder, light that otherwise would have gone to the film. So a Bolex is usually about 1/3 of a stop slower than a comparable mirror-shutter camera. The way you compensate for that is by pretending it has a narrower shutter angle, but that's not actually what's happening.
It's also why Bolex viewfinders don't flicker.
It's also why Bolex viewfinders don't flicker.