Good Fast Cheap DIY HD camera slider

K

klk

Well-known member
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=70SXO_ftzzE


This is a camera slider I've been developing for myself- finally made a video on it.
To answer a few question- I weigh about 190 lbs, and the slider supports me fine over an 8' clear span.


Speed of setup was the main inspiration for this project, and of course weight capacity. And price: cheaper is better.


No plans for a "break down" rail kit- that simply killed the setup speed. I also found the welded rails do not take up much more room than rails broken down with separate end supports. I don't think "sectioned" rails make much sense for this- due to the weight capacity this has as-is. If you're flying with a slider there are a number of other solutions that would work better. BTW rails could easily be made up to 20' in length- that would just be a ***** to transport. I feel the 8-10' rail is a practical limit for this. After that the rails need support- not for weight- for vibration control believe it or not. Longer lengths tend to vibrate- must be the natural frequency of the material. My guess if the rails are welded in the center- like my 2' rail, the vibrations would be dampened. But I'd lose the easy low mode capability. Longer lengths really become a different shot- steadicam- stabilizer- vehicle mount, etc.


It is possible to powdercoat the rails matte black- and hard anodize speed rail legs matte black if reflections worry you.


I'm still refining this thing, so question/ comments are welcome. You can also contact me direct at: karlkimdp@gmail.com


Tim N- if you want to try this in person give me a call. Thanks guys.
 
Stainless rectangular tubing was 16 gauge- what the local steel supplier has in stock. Wheels are urethane- I have them in a couple of different durometer sets- want to try even softer wheels. Just cost $$$ to do custom cast/ machine work.
BTW I am drawing up machined end rail supports for a travel setup.
 
I'm surprised Mcmaster-Carr didn't have a similar wheel that you could have used. I know similar can be found in nylon and Delrin, but those would be too hard. I wonder if you could use a 2 piece wheel? Regular skate board wheels with a delrin flange comes to mind, might make it cheaper and easier to make. I have a feeling you'll want to tailor the durometer to the load, softer wheels would certainly be smoother, but under heavy loads or high temperatures they could be a problem with being too soft.

It's a neat idea, and something I'll have to look into for things at work. Might scale it down for dslr sizes, need to make myself a little jib arm too, again for dslr sized rigs.

Something to note, since you are making end clamps for take down, would it make sense to mount a bubble level in each corner to speed up the set up? You can get "high precision" circular bubbles that you could embed down where they would be safe. gives you redundancy and ability to cross check if all four corners have levels in them.
 
A Delrin wheel hub with a slightly tapered flange might be the best long term solution. The flange should be quiet because the taper has a small contact area until things get really out of line. Then press on different urethane tubes like this stuff. http://www.westernroller.com/products/poly-tube/ you could cut it yourself and use a simple threaded rod and nuts/washers to press the wheels onto the hub. Should be cheaper than having wheels cast each time you want to try something.
 
That's a good source. Right now getting different durometer wheels are not that expensive- if I order a minimum quantity (cast is set). Next order would be for a small, micro production run- but truly appreciate the input. I don't have a lathe or mill at the moment, but that will change if I do end up making some of these sliders. The pieces will all be CNC machined, but it would be super handy to have a lathe and mill at my disposal 24/7.
 
There is no question that a lathe and mill will be super handy to have for any project or even modding stuff you buy. That cheap China gear for sale everywhere can be turned into better product with a little clean up or mod. It's incredibly liberating to take your idea to a functional piece and put that piece into a production to solve a problem.

When budgeting, add in about $1000 for tooling for a mill, you can go small and incrementally build the tools but be prepared to order stuff with each project. Not sure about lathe tooling, but probably similar. I'd also swear by getting a DRO for each machine, unless you have a cnc controlled machine.
 
Quick update- redid the slider in a CAD program. The changes:
-lowered the camera plate height a touch.
-designed simple "safeZ's" that wiil bolt to the camera platform- I didn't feel like drawing stock knobs- but it will bolt from the top to make life easy. Most of the time will likely not need it, but a safety feature that was requested.
-designed bolt on 100mm and 150mm bowls- integrated
-the "brake" will flip- so you can have a brake in normal mode and in low mode. Don't have a CAD file for clamps, so just left it off this picture. It will attach with a ratchet knob, so quick flip as necessary. The relief on the side of the sled will locate the 'brake" in either position.


-and biggest addition- machined end rails. Just slide speed rail for legs, and 1x2" stainless steel tubing as slider rails and you're good to go. "Legs" are canted and splayed. Integral Mitchell mount on end rail support if you want to place on a Mitchell tripod. I can't draw nicely sculpted objects- yet- so it looks a little angular. I'll see what the machine shop can come up with. I didn't draw the rail lock down screws either- using "stock" components.


NEXT STEP- just have to have the machine shop make these. I won't have a price until I can give the shop quantities- the first price break comes at 10 units. In my mind this project doesn't make sense unless a "Kit" as you seen in these drawings can be sold for under $2K. A couple of hundred dollars less if welded rails are requested instead of the machined end rails. At more than $2K there are too many sliders on the market- though only the expensive ones can support cine setups- and I'm not aware of another slider that can slip to "low mode" in a couple of seconds. Planning to have the slider anodized black- can also be anodized clear.


If you have a strong interest in this let me know via email- once I gauge interest I can get a price from the machine shop(s). You can reach me at: karlkimdp@gmail.com
BTW the machine shop and myself are located in Jersey- so all manufacturing will be in-state at the moment. This knock down kit can easily ship world wide- just a little heavy. I'll be submitting drawings today, so hopefully will have some pricing soon.
 

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From another DIY perspective, I'm more interested in the wheels.

I'd say that if welding is cheaper than billet machining, I'd go with welded, I'd also go with steel over aluminum if there is a big price difference. The Mitchel on the bottom of the end rails is a good idea.

Not much else to nitpick here.
 
Welding rails together in stainless is a lot cheaper- that's what I did for myself. It's also faster and stronger in the field. But you know how camera guys like aluminum and some guys have to break down the rails for travel. whatever is more popular- I'll offer both.
 
Welding the end rail device together with a clamp for the roller rails should make it break down and still be cheaper than a machined piece (maybe). Having it all made of stainless would allow certain other advantages when dealing with wet or salty locations.

Of, and if made from aluminum, go for a "cold, hard" anodize. It's more durable and gives a blackish finish without needing dye.
 
Elegance in simplicity for sure!

Very nice.

Karl, if you ever get of this work, I am positive you could get hired as a TV Newscaster.
I bet you get audio guys telling you that you have a great voice-over voice all the time too.
 
DPStewart said:
Elegance in simplicity for sure!
Karl, if you ever get of this work, I am positive you could get hired as a TV Newscaster.
I bet you get audio guys telling you that you have a great voice-over voice all the time too.
Click to expand...

I was thinking the same thing!

-gl
 
I can't tell you how hard it was to get in front of a camera the first time. Just by myself- for a project last year. I started off by doing 40 takes of simple sentences- I couldn't talk in a complete sentence. I just kept on rolling until I had a usable take...

If someone wants to PAY me for voice work- I'm in!
 
klk said:
I can't tell you how hard it was to get in front of a camera the first time. Just by myself- for a project last year. I started off by doing 40 takes of simple sentences- I couldn't talk in a complete sentence. I just kept on rolling until I had a usable take...

If someone wants to PAY me for voice work- I'm in!
Click to expand...

Yup. That's how it usually works out.
And now you look like a complete natural.

And YEAH - they'd BETTER pay you!
 
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