Steve Laramie
Veteran
I dont feel like buying a 1000$ monitor just to focus as long as I can do focus with measuring from camera to talent. I will be using a Red rock setup and hvx200a. Any tips on how to do this correctly?
focusing using tape measure
- Thread starter Steve Laramie
- Start date
RyanT
Veteran
You can always just use the LCD with extended focus, then make marks on your follow focus. There's nothing wrong with that.
Otherwise, you can check to see if the distance markings are actually correct. Do this by putting a focus chart, or something of high contrast out at about 3 feet, measuring this distance from the ground glass of the adapter. Then put the lens at 3 feet. If it's correctly in focus, you're a very lucky man.
The 3 feet number by the way can be anything, I would suggest something though that you can see on the lens. Like, if you don't have a marking at 3 feet, but you have one at 5 feet, put it 5 feet out.
So, lets say you're unlucky and the marking on your lens is off. Get some thin marking tape and put it around your lens. Then put the focus chart out at a variety of distances, maybe starting at 1.5 feet and going to 15 or 20 feet. Make as many intermediary marks as you want.
Now you can use a tape measure with your adapter. The reason this happens is because the distance between the ground glass and the lens is not quite right, sending all those marks out the window.
Just remember to measure from the ground glass to the actors eye and you should be good.
Otherwise, you can check to see if the distance markings are actually correct. Do this by putting a focus chart, or something of high contrast out at about 3 feet, measuring this distance from the ground glass of the adapter. Then put the lens at 3 feet. If it's correctly in focus, you're a very lucky man.
The 3 feet number by the way can be anything, I would suggest something though that you can see on the lens. Like, if you don't have a marking at 3 feet, but you have one at 5 feet, put it 5 feet out.
So, lets say you're unlucky and the marking on your lens is off. Get some thin marking tape and put it around your lens. Then put the focus chart out at a variety of distances, maybe starting at 1.5 feet and going to 15 or 20 feet. Make as many intermediary marks as you want.
Now you can use a tape measure with your adapter. The reason this happens is because the distance between the ground glass and the lens is not quite right, sending all those marks out the window.
Just remember to measure from the ground glass to the actors eye and you should be good.
nickmicros
Well-known member
you don't to to use a tape measure with the red rock. I also shoot with the same set-up and for some reason measuring the distance never worked out for me. so yeah, the best thing to do is use focus assistant.
hoarp001
Veteran
Backfocus needs to be accuratly set and im not sure this is adjustable on the redrock. This is the distance between the lens and the imaging screen, and tenths of millimeters can make all the differnce, its a very fine adjustment.
what you do is set the lens to a mark (lets say three feet) and then using a tape measure, put a back focus chart on a stand at exactly three feet from the film plane. You then adjust the back focus in and out until the image is sharp. Then you lock the backfocus off and never touch it until its wrong again.
This should make your lens barrel markings accurate, assuming its a new and good quality lens. Older lenses can slip and be inaccurate.
what you do is set the lens to a mark (lets say three feet) and then using a tape measure, put a back focus chart on a stand at exactly three feet from the film plane. You then adjust the back focus in and out until the image is sharp. Then you lock the backfocus off and never touch it until its wrong again.
This should make your lens barrel markings accurate, assuming its a new and good quality lens. Older lenses can slip and be inaccurate.
RyanT
Veteran
You can't adjust the backfocus on the redrock, well..you can, but you can't do it very finely.
But if you could adjust the backfocus, after setting it at 3 feet, you also have to set it at a further point and a closer point as well, just to see that the marks hold throughout the range of your lens.
I just recommend a combination of focus assist and tape measure. Sometimes getting eye focus is better, like on tight lenses, while other times, such as on wider lenses, using a tape measure is the way to go.
There are also times when the DP or camera operator are doing things and it's easier just to go around with your 2nd and get all the marks.
atlfilmguy
Well-known member
This exact issue has been discussed a bunch of times in the adapter section.
Some good info there.
I have a M2 and my back focus is rock solid.
All my lenses are equal on tape and witness marks.
NOW it took me 8 hours and 25 times taking apart the RR box.
I was down to moving the GG by the width of a piece of paper by the end.
Some good info there.
I have a M2 and my back focus is rock solid.
All my lenses are equal on tape and witness marks.
NOW it took me 8 hours and 25 times taking apart the RR box.
I was down to moving the GG by the width of a piece of paper by the end.
emretufekci
Well-known member
I dont believe the witness marks on photographic lenses are made to accurate as film lenses. We usually use tape to calibrate and mark the remote FF using a focus chart. I have seen +60K film lenses not having accurate witness marks. Always test and remark.
Also pulling focus is an art and takes practice. The AC's I work with can guess distances 8-10 feet away down to an inch. They tell me it's practice+zen.
Recommended reading:
Camera Assistant, The: A Complete Professional Handbook by douglas hart.
Also pulling focus is an art and takes practice. The AC's I work with can guess distances 8-10 feet away down to an inch. They tell me it's practice+zen.
Recommended reading:
Camera Assistant, The: A Complete Professional Handbook by douglas hart.